P.S. The working ambient temperature for these controllers was only rated at 40C and where they are placed, they get a lot hotter than that, especially as the steam boilers could not be switched off. Presumably the higher voltage allowed the insulation to breakl down quite easily on European models. It really wasn't a correct choice of controller in the first place.

40C is 105F that's not even over room temperature on the hot days where I grew up. Even though only rated to 40, it seems implausible that it would actually die at 41. It's hard to find parts that are rated less than 85C so I wonder why they choose 40?

Ira

Why did Gicar choose internal Hahn transformers rated to only 55C (I think it was) in their first PIDs, lots of failures soon made them correct that....just people not thinking it through when designing.

When I got the machine I asked the previous owner if he had the blind disc or a rubber piece for doing backflushes.
He said he didn't know what that was and didn't keep up with it. So that means my machine has never been backflushed.

Today I got in a blind basket and a big tub o Glo Joe along with a new shower and gasket. I just straight up flushed it a few times then added the Glo Joe and things got nasty. It was like brewed coffee running out of there. I did the Glo Joe 5-6 times and rinsed the basket and flushed a dozen or more times and the yuck kept coming though it was getting lighter. Finally after running almost an entire tank through it was running clear again but I'd bet there is more yuck up in there. I finished by running a bunch of water through the group and pulled a sacrifice shot. I'll install the shower and gasket later in the week.

While I was back flushing the gauge was going to 4 bar and holding a second and then going up to 6 or 7 bar. It went to 7 bar more often but a few times 6 was the best it would do. Not sure what its supposed to be during a flush but it ought to be consistent.

Also is there any merit when backflushing to allow the detergent to stay in the group for a bit before releasing? I let it pause a minute but was scared to go much longer as I don't want to eat any seals or gaskets or cause the lever to start squeaking as I have heard that improper maintenance will do that.

OzarkTroutBum wrote: While I was back flushing the gauge was going to 4 bar and holding a second and then going up to 6 or 7 bar. It went to 7 bar more often but a few times 6 was the best it would do. Not sure what its supposed to be during a flush but it ought to be consistent.

Also is there any merit when backflushing to allow the detergent to stay in the group for a bit before releasing? I let it pause a minute but was scared to go much longer as I don't want to eat any seals or gaskets or cause the lever to start squeaking as I have heard that improper maintenance will do that.

Usually 9 bar+ during the backflush

When backflushing try and let the detergent out more "slowly" than just quickly lowering the lever, this gives it a little more time to work on the way out of the preinfusion chamber and vent valve etc..If the lever gets stiff, remove it and lubricate the cams.

Interesting. I'll flush it again early next week and try the slower release method.

Now to try and figure out where my pressure is. Previous owner said that he had a pump issue that was resolved by WLL due to a warranty issue. He said later it developed a choking issue but I chalked that up to the fact that he didn't own a grinder and never backflushed.

Isn't there supposed to be an adjustment through a hole under the drip tray? I just looked and I didn't see anything apparent.

OzarkTroutBum wrote:Isn't there supposed to be an adjustment through a hole under the drip tray? I just looked and I didn't see anything apparent.

depends how old it is and also Expobar had a nasty habit of having the hole, but then having the adjustment part of the expansion valve, not facing the hole, so you still had to remove the case to adjust it. I used to moan like mad about it. In the early days, Expobar appeared not to give a sh** about the customer, there was a customer facing person that simply never let anything through, so they were in effect blind.

DaveC wrote:depends how old it is and also Expobar had a nasty habit of having the hole, but then having the adjustment part of the expansion valve, not facing the hole, so you still had to remove the case to adjust it. I used to moan like mad about it. In the early days, Expobar appeared not to give a sh** about the customer, there was a customer facing person that simply never let anything through, so they were in effect blind.

I opened it up and the ajustmet was 45 degrees from where it should be. I turned it up and got the pressure up to 8 bar but the gauge still seems erratic so I left it at that. I still think something is amiss. I may replace the OPV. Its Fluid O Tech but I didn't get a part number. WLL says they dont have a kit for it so it may need replaced.

DaveC wrote:depends how old it is and also Expobar had a nasty habit of having the hole, but then having the adjustment part of the expansion valve

I found your paper about the OPV and I understand what it does now. I was under the mistaken impression that its purpose was to "magically" increase pressure, not decrease it from the pump as you explained.

I can see the need for an upgrade as well.