Here's my BunnZilla, aka GrindZilla! I ended up ordering the ditting burrs from a place in Montreal and going that route. I cut about 4 or 5 inches off the top, making it roughly the same size as a g1 I think. I wasn't really planning to do so, but when I pulled the silver Bunn sticker off the front I couldn't get some of the silver residue off. At that point I grinded it down and decided if i'm grinding it down, I might as well shorten it as well. I thought about shortening it from the bottom well, but I figured it would take a fair bit more work given I don't have access to a spot welder.

I painted the base plate black from the original red. The red paint I used was Krylon enamel, it seems to be pretty similar to the original. I also brushed the chute and the knob with a scotch pad (make sure you go in exactly the same direction). I also got the trifecta detent plate as well.


Total Costs (Canadian)
$200 - Grinder
$450 - Burrs
$40 - Paint, sandpaper, etc.
$40 - Decal, detent plate, rubber feet, misc
...I probably should have just bought a new one haha.

Overall I am pretty happy with the final results. The only issue I have now is that it sounds like the bearing on the knob is starting to squeal. Anyone know if this is an urgent fix?


Here's some before and afters, as well as a photoshopped image showing what it would look like shortened. Overall, being a new member to the coffee community, I have been very impressed with the people who share this passion. Thanks everyone for the help!





------------- Stock G3 ------------- Shortened from the Top ------------ Shortened from the top and the bottom, and the chute shortened as well.

I have the same problem on my just bought G9 Dunn grinder. The auger rotor won't budge. I need one more tip of the future struggler that is how to remove the rotor cup. Thanks in advance.

Start by removing the 2 screws holding the front plate, the one with the grind markings.

Next remove the small metal cup over the end of the shaft. It should just pull off but if not, wrap it with tape so you don't scratch it and pull gently with a pair of pliers.

Remove the shear plate, a flat piece of metal held in by the cup you just removed. Commonly at this point you'd be picking it up off the floor as it tends to just fall out.

Now see if you can remove the short piece of shaft with the slot in it, it should just pull out.

Next, can you grab the outer burr carrier and pull it off, again, it should just come right off.

If it doesn't then on to finding the problem!

First test is can you turn it on the motor shaft and can you push it in. There is a spring behind it so you should be able to push it in and it should just spring back. if it does not move in and out or turn on the shaft smoothly, place some thin oil on the end of the shaft and see if that helps it move smoothly.

The center of the outer bearing carrier contains a brass bushing which we'd like to keep in perfect condition. It does not actually turn on the shaft so it should last essentially forever. The only movement it gets in moving in and out when you adjust the grind or clean the burrs.

The is almost no possibility for coffee oils to build up in a way that will cause the shaft to bind. But if that was the problem it's likely that the oil we put on and worked in at the last step will have fixed the problem.

If it moves in and out easily but stops when you try to gently pull it off you might have the same problem I had.

And now for the disclaimer. I know I did this and it worked, but I just took my grinder apart to check the instructions and I have no idea where the burr was that I had to file off. I know it was there and removing it allowed me to easily remove the burr carrier. So if you get this far, the next bit of instruction might not make as much sense as I'd hoped. It's clear in my mind what I had to do, but for the life of me I can't see it while looking at the grinder. I would look at the old parts for the marks I left while filing, but replacement pars were surprisingly inexpensive and so I replaced all those parts.

On mine and at least one other that had never been cleaned the shear plate had very slightly mangled the edge of the groove in the shaft. You can test this by pushing the carrier as far in as you can and feeling the four edges of the slots. If it feels like there are any raised edges, file them down. Be careful not to file anything you don't mean to. I did it by myself but it might have been easier with two people.

Once I filed those burrs off, the burr carrier just slid right off.

If the burrs don't budge even the tiniest bit, you might try this. Start by oiling the shaft like I described earlier and then wait a day to see if it penetrates. Fhen find some very lightly roasted beans, set the grind setting to it's coarsest and run some through. then select the finest setting and then back to coarse for some more grinding. Since you're probably going to toss the burrs, you might even try rice or some other hard bean, even up to green coffee beans. grinding presses the burrs apart with a fair amount of force and adjusting back to fine does the same the other way. If doing that a few time moves the carrier on the shaft you're likely well on your way to getting the carrier off.

Do not try to hard to push the burrs in with the adjustment knob as it's not really intended as a wrench but if grinding beans spreads the burrs apart it will probably be possible to adjust them finer with the knob.

Ira

I taped the rotor cup and removed it with a pair of plier as suggested and out it's off. I have to use $14 steering puller from Canadian Tire to remove the burr auger with the motor is still in the grinder(Bunn G9). Thanks - you guys' advices. Happy grinding .

Just to update with my finding that confirms ira's experince on some burrs cause the auger cannot slide easily. I found on the cut out edges of the end of motor shaft that joins the shaft extension have burrs. I also could see some scratches on the inside of the auger. The cause of this was very peculiar because the slotted end of extension shaft that joins the motor shaft had broken on both sides (2 pieces). I believe that would be the cause of the burrs on the motor shaft by rocking back and forth with grinder's start and stop motions.

This should be another tip of the future struggler. Happy fixings .