La Cimbali Junior - Replacement Heating Element Different

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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cuppajoe
Posts: 1643
Joined: 11 years ago

#1: Post by cuppajoe »

Greetings -

The replacement element I ordered came in, and there are several differences. The main one being there's nowhere to mount the safety cutoff thermostat.

The end plate is somewhat different and element spacing wider. It mounts on the boiler OK and seems there's enough space around the element ends for the gasket to seat.



My machine's an early version, and seems to be an S1. The only references found for replacement elements were for 'M-21 Junior' and all pics shown were the same, regardless of site. My guess is that the element has changed over the years and this is the proper replacement despite the differences.
Not to worry and just use? If so, should I try to find an alternate solution for the safety switch?

Thanks
David - LMWDP 448

My coffee wasn't strong enough to defend itself - Tom Waits

erik996
Posts: 102
Joined: 15 years ago

#2: Post by erik996 »

I see Pasquini is an authorized dealer and service center, so I'd call them. I've talked to Bob in the parts department about an old obsolete Anfim grinder and he's super helpful.

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Paul_Pratt
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#3: Post by Paul_Pratt »

Elements often change over time, and machine manuf. use different companies all the time. Looks ok to me, you just need to add the safety thermostat, get your drill and tap out. Probably an M4 screw.

I see that the parts came from LF then to Cafeparts. LF is a large parts supplier in Italy, and unlike other parts companies they only sell original parts - well that is what the sales girl told me. Unlike say Ascaso who have their own aftermarket parts in there which are sometimes awful quality. But Ascaso do have a lot of obsolete parts so they do provide a decent service in the end. You just learn to stay away from certain parts.

gor
Posts: 268
Joined: 12 years ago

#4: Post by gor »

I can see 3 possible spots to mount the safety thermostat on the new element. Just choose one of the 3 lugs provided and use a suitable sized drill and tap like Paul suggested. Should take you 5 mins.

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cuppajoe (original poster)
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#5: Post by cuppajoe (original poster) »

Thanks guys -

It's a 20 year or so old machine, so had figured that parts could morph over time. My main concern was it was completely unsuitable for my Junior. Paul's post that it appears to be OEM is heartening.

The current safety switch is surface mount, so guess I'll source a screw in type like in the Giotto and tap it in one of the three blank holes. Any ideas as to the temp spec I should look for, and should it be a manual reset type?
David - LMWDP 448

My coffee wasn't strong enough to defend itself - Tom Waits

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civ
Posts: 1148
Joined: 17 years ago

#6: Post by civ »

cuppajoe wrote:Any ideas as to the temp spec I should look for, and should it be a manual reset type?
No doubt about that, it has to be a manual reset type.
I almost lost my Cimbali Junior's heating element once, was saved by the auto-timer.

See here.
Need thermal safety switch for Olympia Cremina

Check with this HBer to see if his offer still stands:
Need thermal safety switch for Olympia Cremina

These are 'one pole type', but I think the best safeguards are the ones (I think Paul Pratt uses them), which are both surface mount and two pole, but cost much more:


Image courtesy http://www.espressoparts.com


In my (limited) experience, a surface mount type is better than a screw on type.
Just trace, (carefully) drill and (more carefully still) tap holes for the two screws. (blind holes are a pain to tap)

The best place is the original location. ie: where the element sits.

Cheers,

CIV

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cuppajoe (original poster)
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Joined: 11 years ago

#7: Post by cuppajoe (original poster) »

Hi civ -

Thanks for the tips. Looking at the points for mounting a screw in type, it appears that it wouldn't be the best place anyway, too far removed from the element. And since I would have to drill and tap anyway... Luckily the flange is a bit thicker on the new one.

Have PM'd chococar about his.
David - LMWDP 448

My coffee wasn't strong enough to defend itself - Tom Waits

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civ
Posts: 1148
Joined: 17 years ago

#8: Post by civ »

cuppajoe wrote: Thanks for the tips.
You're welcome.
cuppajoe wrote: ... since I would have to drill and tap anyway...
Should you opt for the (more expensive but more reliable) two-pole thermal switch solution, you can do what those who rebuild large two and three group machines do: tie it snugly to the boiler body with two double strands of SS wire around it.

Don't know the rating but my guess is that it's ~135° C., would have to check.

From what I have seen, it seems to be the preferred solution.

Cheers,

CIV