Hi there guys.
Finally got my Mcal and there is a problem.
The pressure gauge is stuck like on the first photo.
Then I put water on it and turned it on. It started to rise and I got scared so I turned it off.
What should I do?

I think that Dan is right (as usual !)
The gauge needle is just shifted.
I had the same problem in one of my Pavoni's gauge and fixed it by opening it in the rear and gently forcing the spring.
But it would be better first checking with another gauge, just to be sure.
I would suggest you to replace the boiler cap. Newer caps have built in safety valve. It will cost a bit, but I think that safety cannot be priced.
Alberto

Where can i get that boiler cap and how do i attach the second gauge. I thought there is a release valve on that cap

Actually I don't know that cap, but it seems not tall enough to have a built in safety valve.
This is a picture of the cap with built in safety valve.

The cap you already have on the boiler is the safety valve, so no need to change it. The newer cap has an anti pressure/vac valve as well.

With the cap that is on the machine it will come up to a false pressure ( not dangerous ) on initial startup. The heating element will shut off, and you will find the water is not hot enough to make good coffee, so what you do is just open the steam wand for a couple of seconds to relieve the false pressure. The heating element will come on again and it will come up to the proper temperature.

The only reason to buy a new cap IMHO would be if you will have the machine on a timer.

As far as the gauge, I would never bend the spring.
Look at the link in Dan's reply ( I agree with him ) and read the post by DJF to readjust the gauge.

Good luck with the machine, it is capable of making truly exceptional coffee.

If you have any other questions just let us know.

You can attach pressure gauges to the steam wand. You can get gauges from China at very very reasonable prices, you need one that reads about to 0.25 MPa. (The Chinese gauges read standard pressures and not weird things like millimetres of alpha bromo naphthalene or some other bizarre unit.) You can get them with a variety of connections. My Mcal has M6x1.0 threads on the steam wand, I do not know if they all do. One can, using a couple of taps, make a simple brass adapter to the steam wand from the gauge.

Mine is very recent (2012). I am impressed with its espresso since I learned never to make two full pulls, which breaks the puck. I always make two or three short pulls first. This also results in higher pressure on the puck for more of the extraction period.

Be sure to service and lubricate the group frequently unless you use very chloride free water, because the piston runs dry on top, and chloride in the water can lead to severe corrosion. (Pitting, bronze disease.)

jmc wrote:The cap you already have on the boiler is the safety valve, so no need to change it. The newer cap has an anti pressure/vac valve as well.

I have the newer cap in my 1989 MCAL.
The previous owner bought it for safety reason.
I cannot see any anti vacuum effect in it.
Actually I have to open the steam wand valve after each first heating.
In newer MCALs there is an anti vacuum valve, but it is separate from the cap.
It is a separate unit, placed in a separate hole on the top of the machine.

I have been waiting for parts for ages.
I am thinking about just taking off the gauge and get a non elektra for now so I can start using the machine.
Whats the right pressure I should be getting and is it possible my machine is not working properly due to scale buildup and after descaling it might start working?

Pressure should be about 1.0 bar or 0.1 MPa.

My MCAL (2012)has an overpressure relief valve in the boiler cap, and a separate vacuum relief valve. (I think they added that in 2005, but I am not sure.)

You may be able to read the pressure also using the steam wand by unscrewing the tip and attaching a Presta bicycle pressure gauge, it will probably seal, the diameters are very similar.