Plumbing Cold Water Inlet Pipe: Copper or Plastic? - Page 3
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keepitsimple
- Posts: 340
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello, Dee
Yes - I'm sure the plastic overflow pipe is freeze resistant, in that it is pliable enough to allow the contents to freeze without splitting, and is itself not degraded by the kind of temperatures that you're likely to meet in a UK winter. It doesn't mean the water in the pipe won't freeze though ;o( You'll only find out when the water won't drain. Not likely to do much damage though - only inconvenient.
On the supply side, copper pipe won't normally withstand the contents freezing. It will split. If you had mentioned that you were installing the pipework outside I would not have suggested copper, or if it had to be copper, then using compression joints rather than soldered (compressions are more likely to give way and fall apart if the water freezes, rather than damaging the pipe itself.)
If 'twere me, and the supply pipework just had to be outside - no other feasible options, I think I'd be looking at what's called a trace heating system to prevent the supply pipes freezing. There are several available. Basically it's a low wattage heating wire system that sticks along the pipework before you apply the insulation on top. When the temperature drops to the point where the contents may freeze, it kicks in and applies just enough heat to stop that happening. You can get both 230v and I think 24v systems. They aren't that cheap, but better than having burst pipes. Fairly low cost to run as they only operate when absolutely necessary.
Yes - I'm sure the plastic overflow pipe is freeze resistant, in that it is pliable enough to allow the contents to freeze without splitting, and is itself not degraded by the kind of temperatures that you're likely to meet in a UK winter. It doesn't mean the water in the pipe won't freeze though ;o( You'll only find out when the water won't drain. Not likely to do much damage though - only inconvenient.
On the supply side, copper pipe won't normally withstand the contents freezing. It will split. If you had mentioned that you were installing the pipework outside I would not have suggested copper, or if it had to be copper, then using compression joints rather than soldered (compressions are more likely to give way and fall apart if the water freezes, rather than damaging the pipe itself.)
If 'twere me, and the supply pipework just had to be outside - no other feasible options, I think I'd be looking at what's called a trace heating system to prevent the supply pipes freezing. There are several available. Basically it's a low wattage heating wire system that sticks along the pipework before you apply the insulation on top. When the temperature drops to the point where the contents may freeze, it kicks in and applies just enough heat to stop that happening. You can get both 230v and I think 24v systems. They aren't that cheap, but better than having burst pipes. Fairly low cost to run as they only operate when absolutely necessary.
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SomersetDee (original poster)
- Posts: 130
- Joined: 10 years ago
Hi Rob Eatonkeepitsimple wrote:Hello, Dee
Yes - I'm sure the plastic overflow pipe is freeze resistant, in that it is pliable enough to allow the contents to freeze without splitting, and is itself not degraded by the kind of temperatures that you're likely to meet in a UK winter. It doesn't mean the water in the pipe won't freeze though ;o( You'll only find out when the water won't drain. Not likely to do much damage though - only inconvenient.
>>>....
It has been less than two weeks and already I am having very slow drain. You can see the stagnant water in the small sink.
regards
Dee
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keepitsimple
- Posts: 340
- Joined: 17 years ago
Hello, Dee.
Hmmmm......
To start with, it looks from the picture as if the drain pipe from the glass washer has an upward gradient - it will never work if so. At the very least, you need to lift the device so that the drain has a downward gradient all the way.
The "U-bend" you created outside will hold a lot of water and will also be very prone to blocking with such a large volume of water, and very sharp bends.
To be honest, I'm fairly dubious about the complete drainage setup as you currently have it, but you probably figured that out already. I suspect you will have to re-engineer it using proper drainage components and a careful design to get it to work successfully.
Hmmmm......
To start with, it looks from the picture as if the drain pipe from the glass washer has an upward gradient - it will never work if so. At the very least, you need to lift the device so that the drain has a downward gradient all the way.
The "U-bend" you created outside will hold a lot of water and will also be very prone to blocking with such a large volume of water, and very sharp bends.
To be honest, I'm fairly dubious about the complete drainage setup as you currently have it, but you probably figured that out already. I suspect you will have to re-engineer it using proper drainage components and a careful design to get it to work successfully.
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SomersetDee (original poster)
- Posts: 130
- Joined: 10 years ago
Hi Rob,
I am surprised and pleased to say that the draining system has been working faultlessly now (touch wood). I did do a simple modification to it. I introduced a vertical air intake pipe.
regards
Dee
I am surprised and pleased to say that the draining system has been working faultlessly now (touch wood). I did do a simple modification to it. I introduced a vertical air intake pipe.
regards
Dee
