beer&mathematics wrote:How are you using the clamp? And how many? I've tried many different combinations of clamps and OE bench dogs and couldn't find one that worked for me. Using clamps will mess with the plates alignment and it affects the grind quality and the grind setting too. I even have the Voodoodaddy bolt covers and have the outer burr locked in. Even with that, the clamps would tweak things. Of course, YMMV

Using the VDD steel bolt covers allows removal of the ABS lower grinds hopper, which exposes the funnel. That, in turn, allows you to place the upper clamp pressure point near the centre of the bottom plate. With this setup, I find that the clamp can be screwed down gently and that it is unnecessary to steady the grinder further. The Pharos is very stable during grinding and the handle turns smoothly.



I have also replaced the original feet with anti-vibration bumpers, which helps maintain stability.



Matt

Matt, that looks pretty good and because you left the main shaft untouched and still have the full bottom plate, I imagine you have much less play when you use the C-clamp. Those anti-vibration bumpers appear to be excellent for the desired application.

I had to leave the main shaft untouched, as I would never have had the neeve to cut it. in any case, with RDT the funnel works well for me.
As to the bumpers, I expect the original hard foam pad would work as well or better, but I didn't like the aesthetics or ergonomics.

I don't see how a moderately snug anchoring of the Pharos bottom plate to the counter could alter the grind alignment. It looks like Doug designed this thing as a possible automobile part if you needed new brake discs on the go. The Pharos is seriously solid.

I just bought #804 from a fellow H-B poster (Thanks, I love it.). To my surprise, I wasn't ready for a wrestling/grinding match before my first ristretto in the morning. So, it didn't take long to figure out how to anchor the Pharos to my counter top and dial it in. I've got the Pharos on a corner of a woodblock counter and am using mini bar clamps/ quick grips for each side of the 90 degree corner. Their trigger tightening and simple release levers are perfect for snugging the grinder down on the thick base pad. I also have large vise grips that firmly anchor the bottom plate. Vise Grips stick out a bit more than the trigger grips. Either combination is easy to release for pouring out the grinds.

While reading dozens of H-B forums I found Roger's grind adjustment chart.
http://www.scythide.com/pharos/topplate_scythide.pdf
This really helped me orient myself on the top plate of the Pharos. I would prefer that the rotating numbers go clockwise in harmony with Doug's directions on dialing in. I guess I could fix that myself in Photoshop.

I know I am way behind the hundreds of Pharos owners on H-B and will probably be modding mine up soon enough. I just want to express how pleased I am with H-B and OE. Doug and Barb are making a great product and this forum is a great place to experience ingenuity in action.

It is built solid, but the few part that aren't solid are the bolt covers. From some accounts their ability to compression is actually fundamental to the alignment. Therefore, I don't see it as a fault. However, if you are clamping it down, it's going to compress one side and throw it out of alignment. YMMV. You've overcome this, if I read it correctly, by clamping it evenly with the use of multiple clamps evenly distributed around the grinder. This is probably why you don't see how a moderately snug anchoring of the Pharos bottom plate to the counter could alter the grind alignment. Matt's method also distributes the force evenly because the clamp is toward the middle. OE's products are well thought out. I have to believe that the possibility of misalignment caused by compression was one of the reasons their solution to keeping the grinder in place does not require clamping it.

I think the thick soft resting pad provided by OE takes any direct pressure off of bolts, covers and other base plate protrusions. My clamps are about 180 degrees apart and resting against the stock base cylinder that holds the grinds. That's as close the the center as I can get.

Speaking of centering, the ritual of the grind is rather elegant. Even pouring in the beans is sufficiently contemplative, although unorthodox. The zen coffee ceremony disconnect comes when I am prompted to wildly shake the whole machine to get the coffee out. From a zen perspective it could be considered, like any of life's eruptions, to be making waves over a potentially quiet mind. Would I rather be flapping the doser of my Mazzer Mini? Not when I see how fluffy and clump-free the grinds are as I jiggle them into my Visions Espresso 4 oz. glass measure, and then flip that and it fits perfectly over my millenium La Pavoni double basket, so perfectly that I don't even have to run a finger over the basket to level the dose.

Yes, life is good. To quote the coffee buyer in the new Travel Channel series Dangerous Grounds, "You've got to grab life by the beans". Who ever thought cupping would be featured as the climax of a network TV show?

Had a really frustrating time adjusting grind on my Pharos when I first got it. The adjustment floated all over the map.
Was one of first to get VDD bolt covers few years ago. Followed his advice and coated the now naked exit funnel with three coats of Weston silicone spray so could directly thump the exit chute with thumb.

Experimented ever since with emptying grounds into portafilter. Not until six months ago discovered if you pour beans in one narrow slot while tilted at about 30 degrees and use as a knee mill did I find success. Being careful to not disturb the column of beans. As you begin gently turning the beans feed thru slowly and evenly and turning is a pleasure. Never a catch or hitch even with City+ roasts.

I use the exit tube as a guide pouring the beans in just over the exit hole. This may or may not make a difference in pouring into portafilter but it only takes a few gentle taps to exit 18grams of beans.

And the best part? 1500+ grinds and have not had to adjust grind since installing the metal bolt covers. Able to torque much tighter and no more floating adjustments.

The con? Visually the Pharos is not as sexy since the black ABS no longer surrounds the grounds chute. And the now highly visible bottom plate has to be cleaned more often because of tiny bean dust fragments collecting.

I just tried your 30 degree, one sided, knee mill, slow pour technique. I lost a gram of cracked beans onto the floor, plus I spilled a few more. They kept spurting out of the top which did not have the plastic cover on. I couldn't figure out how to "not disturb the column of beans". I could only manage feeding through the top slot in bunches.

I did see why the Weston Silicone would really help the release of beans through the bottom tube. I am hesitant to use it even though it is food grade. I simply do not want any non-coffee product in contact with my precious beans. I refuse to use any flavorings also, but I have been known to drink a little decaf.

I don't have the bolt cover VDD mod and am not sure why I want to as I am currently getting wonderful, consistent results. I may be trying a lot of mods in a couple of months, though.

CoruscatingCoffee wrote:They kept spurting out of the top which did not have the plastic cover on.

Plastic? Mine came from OE with a circular rubber disc with a split where the coffee would be poured thru the slot. As I recall Doug said it was pure rubber. Why would you be grinding without the cover?

The space from the cover to the burrs is shallow and Doug himself says is necessary to keep beans popping out the top of the Pharos. This would be impossible if tilting 30 degrees without a cover because the tilting would obviously cause the beans to spurt out much more readily.
And he designed the Lido without a cover because the bean chamber is long and narrow. On occasion I do lose a stray bean when grinding for french press on the Lido.

If I were getting consistent results would not have used silicone spray myself. Personal preference here.

Just thankful Chris talked me out of purchasing one of his 'stripped' Compak K10's several years ago. Purchased the Pharos a few days later and have been in coffee heaven ever since.
Good luck everyone, enjoy your Pharos!

Gene, You are totally right. I meant a rubber (not plastic) top for my Pharos. Although I read a post where someone substituted a portafilter funnel and a plastic lid from a Pringles tube.

Anyway, I'm back to wildly shaking the Pharos with a large shot glass pushed against the bean chute. The 4 oz glass is also a perfect fit over my portafilter basket. Works great because the grinds are fluffy and even. They don't even require a swipe before tamping. And the real deal maker is that the ristretto is heavenly.

Thanks for your comments. My Mazzer hasn't been used since I got the Pharos.