Isomac HX - No steam / pressure after a while - Page 3

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erics
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#21: Post by erics »

Could a sensor be cutting off the voltage to the SSR
That sensor would be the pstat.



Terminal 1 should always have voltage, terminal 2 should have voltage when the machine is calling for heat, and terminal 4 when the pressurestat is satisfied.
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Eric S.
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Livin (original poster)
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#22: Post by Livin (original poster) »

Eric,
Would the PSTAT cut off the power while also causing both the red/green heating/ready lights go dark?

I'm seeing 19v at the 3/A1 terminal on the SSR... this is why I thought it was the control box and sent it to James.

thanks for the help!

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erics
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#23: Post by erics »

If you are using a wiring diagram that I have previously posted, keep in mind that that was one machine that I happen to have for several days doing some maintenance long ago. Your machine may very well be slightly different.

Skål,

Eric S.
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Livin (original poster)
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#24: Post by Livin (original poster) »

Tests I ran...

PSTAT test:
When system 'in fault' - bypassed PSTAT, connected terminals 1 & 2
... it did not turn on the heater.

SSR tests:
early yesterday I removed the SSR and placed it away from the boiler. The SSR is stone cold and still shut down after 3 hours fromt start time (but no use).
Last night it worked solid for 2 hours - I pulled 2 doubles
... no pattern here it seems?

When system 'in fault' - jumped T1 directly to A1 on SSR - heater immediately came on + Red heater light comes on. After reaching steam pressure, SSR turned off + Green light turned on.

... is the SSR the issue?


How do I test / bypass the water level probe?


Thank for the help... any other ideas?

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erics
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#25: Post by erics »

To bypass the PSTAT do I only need to connect the 1 & 2 together . . .
Yes, with a simple piece of wire, with all of the existing wiring to the pstat connected as it would be for normal machine operation. The "simple piece of wire" acts as a jumper between 1 and 2.

Do you have a multimeter and understand how to use it?
How do I test / bypass the water level probe?
The water level probe which extends into the boiler has nothing to do with the problem you are experiencing. If by "water level probe", you mean the "water tank level switch", simply connect the two wires going to this switch by means of a jumper wire having male spades on each end.
Skål,

Eric S.
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Livin (original poster)
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#26: Post by Livin (original poster) »

After jumping T1 to A1 on SSR, machine has been working for over an hour, no issues.

The water level probe I was referring to is in the boiler. Per schematic, green wire goes to control box.

Yes, I have a professional MultiMeter... and a minor (from a billion years ago so I forgot most of it) in Electrical Engineering :)

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erics
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#27: Post by erics »

As per the particular diagram I posted, terminal 2/T1 on the SSR always has line voltage. Terminal 3/A1 normally gets line voltage from the control box (pin 5) courtesy of the SPST relay contained therein. So, if terminal 3/A1 (without being jumpered) loses voltage at any time, that tells me that the SPST relay in the control box is malfunctioning. This could be monitored with your multimeter.

Off the "top of my head", I see no problem with you jumping 2/T1 to 3/A1 on the SSR BUT I would certainly remove the "normal" wire to 3/A1 from the control box and apply some electrical tape over its bare terminal.
The water level probe I was referring to is in the boiler. Per schematic, green wire goes to control box.
And the only function of that probe is to activate the autofill function of the machine - nothing else.
Skål,

Eric S.
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E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

Livin (original poster)
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#28: Post by Livin (original poster) »

erics wrote:As per the particular diagram I posted, terminal 2/T1 on the SSR always has line voltage. Terminal 3/A1 normally gets line voltage from the control box (pin 5) courtesy of the SPST relay contained therein. So, if terminal 3/A1 (without being jumpered) loses voltage at any time, that tells me that the SPST relay in the control box is malfunctioning. This could be monitored with your multimeter.
This is exactly what I thought. I did monitor it with a MultMeter before I sent it to James... and it did exactly as I described... 120v would drop to 19v without warning. James tested it and said it worked... was his testing was not accurate maybe because the relay was not under a hot boiler for a while?

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