Need replacement Caravel heating element - Page 13

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
pocketmon
Posts: 16
Joined: 10 years ago

#121: Post by pocketmon »

I also thought the V-shape mental bar was a supporting element which would contact the heater.

Gary's statement in the thread inspired me:
Thermostat versus PID on a Caravel

"The support bar is just resting in place below it and isn't attached otherwise."

I am not sure if it is misunderstanding, but the kettle isn't locked correctly and extreme hot of whole body convince me or at least make me start to think of it.

HB should be the place to know the correct answer, if any.
Caravel owners, please let me know if your heater hits/contacts the V-shape mental bar. Thanks.

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sweaner
Posts: 3013
Joined: 16 years ago

#122: Post by sweaner »

It would not make sense for the V shaped bar to NOT touch the element. What would it be for if it just sat there? My machine is definitely hotter, but I think that is because the element is. I was using a 220 on 110 before.
Scott
LMWDP #248

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crazy4espresso
Posts: 677
Joined: 14 years ago

#123: Post by crazy4espresso »

My element is on it's way but I thought I would have a look at the wiring on my machine. The cord is definitely fine and the other wiring appears to be 18 gauge, which means it's adequate for the ~5 amps required at 110v. Looks brand new almost. Someone loved this machine or perhaps just used it very little. As mentioned it's not just the wire size that matters. The connectors must be clean as usually heat builds up right where the wire is crimped. I may end up upgrading the wiring anyway as I like to overkill the electrical usually.

"I would rather suffer with coffee than be senseless." — Napoleon Bonaparte
LMWDP #427

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spressomon
Posts: 1904
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#124: Post by spressomon »

crazy4espresso wrote:My element is on it's way but I thought I would have a look at the wiring on my machine. The cord is definitely fine and the other wiring appears to be 18 gauge, which means it's adequate for the ~5 amps required at 110v. Looks brand new almost. Someone loved this machine or perhaps just used it very little. As mentioned it's not just the wire size that matters. The connectors must be clean as usually heat builds up right where the wire is crimped. I may end up upgrading the wiring anyway as I like to overkill the electrical usually.

<image>
Yes...near brand new looking for sure...right down to the shiny brass set screws for the wires!

I swapped out the main electrical supply cable for a 3-prong (240v original to Paul's 110v element) and turned it on for the first time. The first shot, well it wasn't. Set the grinder more course and over-corrected. Split the difference and got a very tasty shot although the puck was water logged. Clearly I need big practice sessions to get ramped up to the Caravel process!
No Espresso = Depresso

pocketmon
Posts: 16
Joined: 10 years ago

#125: Post by pocketmon »

sweaner wrote:It would not make sense for the V shaped bar to NOT touch the element. What would it be for if it just sat there? My machine is definitely hotter, but I think that is because the element is. I was using a 220 on 110 before.
Sure. If the V-shaped bar doesn't touch the heater, the existence of the V-shaped seems mysterious. However, the direct contact of the heater and the V-shaped bar, which touches parts of the body, without some kind of thermal insulation doesn't make sense either. The consequence is a hot machine body, which shortens the life of the parts of the machine and makes it hard to operate the machine.

It's a interesting finding that I would like to discuss in this forum because I once red a thread in which people said some machine are hot while some are not.

Cafedenda
Posts: 155
Joined: 13 years ago

#126: Post by Cafedenda »

The original element does sit on the V support bar. I partially rewired machine using new wiring but have been too busy to finish it up. Paul mentioned that he purposely angled the posts a little bit to increase their surface contact but in doing so the element goes in a little twisted. Once you push it down into the normal position the pan forces the element to twist back into alignment. Because of this there is 1 small point of direct contact between the element and the pan. This might be the cause of some machines heating up hotter than before. The new element is a bit wider than the original so it's next to impossible for us to get it lined up without touching the side walls. Just my guess at this point because I haven't powered mine up yet.

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crazy4espresso
Posts: 677
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#127: Post by crazy4espresso »

Element arrived today. I swapped a 3 prong plug and cord from an old appliance and fired her up. Like others have experienced the body on my machine also got very hot. There is a point where the new element touches the pan. It seemed to me that this element glowed much brighter though. I temporarily put some aluminum foil between the body and pan to try to insulate or reflect some of the heat away from the body. I'm not sure if that's ideal but I got the impression that it helped a bit. I'll have to conduct some tests to find out more. It's great to be able to plug the machine directly into my wall outlet and not drag out the 50lbs transformer :)
"I would rather suffer with coffee than be senseless." — Napoleon Bonaparte
LMWDP #427

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