Over time I have developed a technique with the 1974-2000 group La Pavoni machines that seems to produce very consistent results. It requires very meticulous attention to some details or it will fail and probably fail miserably.

Before doing anything else be sure that everything is ultra clean. That includes the grinder, everything on the espresso machine, and the cup!

Be sure that the machine is working properly!!! At least once a week check either the boiler temperature or pressure. I have two special devices that I have made to do this. Both are special boiler caps. One has a thermometer well, the other a large gauge that reads from -0.5 bar to 1.5 bar. The image below shows these two devices. (Many install permanent pressure gauges on top of the sight gauge, some connect temporary ones to the steam wand.) I personally prefer to measure temperature. With my 1999 pressure-stat machine the temperature is 116.5 to 117C or so.



With my 1978 two switch machine, when all is well the boiler temperature will rise to about 117.5 when both the 200 watt and the 800 watt elements are on. With just the 200 watt one, it will fall to about 115.5 to 116 or so when the pressure relief valve is functioning properly. (I could only get it to work properly by upgrading the steel ball to the more modern plastic mushroom. I kept having corrosion problems and very very bad temperature control before I did this. Now it works as well as the pressure-stat model! I often got very bad espresso until I did this.)

For time parameter determination I use the portafilter from the 1999 model. (Earlier portafilters are different but both kinds fit on all 1974-2000 groups.) I put a set screw into one of the spouts so espresso only comes out one side. I usually leave this in place all the time.

Here is how I now make espresso:

You will need a roast thermometer with a probe as shown in the image above.

Be sure the machine is filled with water, connect to the power and turn it on. Put the portafilter without basket on the group. While it is warming up grind 14 grams of beans. I usually use a Pharos, turned about 190 degrees from closed. Put the beans in the basket and tamp, with the basket outside the portafilter.

When the 1978 two switch model starts to hiss loudly, raise the group handle and expel roughly five mL of water. Insert the oven thermometer probe into the spout. Turn off 800 watt element, leaving only 200 watt. Wait exactly three minutes.

With the 1999 pressure-stat, when light goes off, bleed steam from steam system and raise handle all the way to expel some water from it. When the light goes out again wait exactly three minutes.

In both cases put the thermometer probe in the spout and watch the temperature rise. Note the temperature after the three minutes have elapsed. It should be between 55 and 60C.

Quickly remove the portafilter and place the basket with the tamped coffee in it. Do not put on group yet! With one hand raise the handle until steam just begins to issue from the bottom of the group. Lower only enough to stop steam and water release. With the other hand put the loaded portafilter on the group. Quickly raise the handle all the way and put the thermometer probe back into the spout. Put the cup under the spout and pull the shot. It should take about 30 seconds if the grind be correct.

Watch the thermometer's temperature. As the first espresso emerges the temperature will tend to go to about 50C. Within 2 or 3 mL it will shoot up to 60C, and then by perhaps 5mL get to 70, and by 10 ml or so get to over 80. By 20 mL it should be near 90C, and by the end of the shot, usually about 32 to 34 mL it should be around 93 or so. The instant the espresso stops flowing the temperature will drop a few degrees.

Taste!

If you pull a second shot right away it will generally also be fine with somewhat similar temperature profile.

If you pull a third shot without any cooling, in my experience the final temperature will be that of boiling water, for this altitude 99C. The espresso will be boiling as it comes out of the machine and be rather bitter, approaching awful.

My preferred cooling method for later shots is to fill a ramekin with room temperature water, put it under the group and raise the handle about half way so that the room temperature water is drawn into the group. Wait only two or three seconds and bring the handle down and immediately put the loaded portafilter on the machine and pull the shot. If desired you can follow the temperature profile as described above.

I only use the thermometer when I am determining parameters, not on a day to day basis. I ALWAYS watch the clock carefully.

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You can adjust the time away from three minutes to customise the flavour to what you like!

You will also need to add more time for lower ambient temperatures. Three minutes seems right for ambient temperatures around 25 to 26C. When around 19 to 20C I increase the time to about three and a half minutes.

Many people follow very different procedures than this. Some lower boiler temperature after the first shot. Some cool the group with cold cloth. In my hands the ramekin method seems to work excellent. I have tried other methods. Reducing boiler temperature works fine too. I find this easier, again for me, more consistent.

The downside is having to watch the clock very closely for the first shot! Oddly after the second shot the ramekin treatment always seems to make very consistent shots. I wonder how this would work with the "Professional?" Would the ramekin cooling be consistent whilst the entire larger boiler was used?

I find that the ramekin procedure works well for me in my pre-m Romantica Pro, also. I don't think that the larger heat source in this model vs. the smaller boiler capacity in a Europiccola will make a significant difference in the heating/cooling of the group.... They are both relatively infinite in heat capacity compared to the smaller group being fed heat through the same flanged connection.

I have developed a very time-sensitive procedure also with my machine. There are some differences, as my equipment differs from Robert's (and probably many of you). My equipment:

Very few people on this forum, I think, use the Pavoni auto-cappuccino (Cappucinatore) steamer shown.

I use time and boiler temperature for control, evacuating air from the boiler by venting, and from the group by lifting the lever until it stops hissing and a little water comes out. With the boiler nearly full and at the control pressure (0.9bar) I pull the first shot, turning the switch off immediately when the heating light turns off. (Yes, the switch is the lit model from an EP). I then use the steamer to provide the milk for the latte and reduce the boiler temp to 0.4bar.

I pull the second shot immediately after turning the heat back on, so that the dip pipe is feeding 0.5 bar water to the group. If I do a third shot, I wait until lifting the lever so that I am getting mostly 0.4 bar water into the group. If more shots are required, I do some additional cooling with a sponge or ramekin, and I am generally pleased with the results. I have made as many as six shots (all with the Elektra "triple" baskets I have) from one filling.

When I wait for a while to make a third and fourth cup (my usual procedure) I start the above procedure over again but do not vent air from the group, because the group is still warm from prior use.

If successive shots are not pulled immediately after the prior one, I always turn the heat off, as prolonged maintenance at full boiler pressure gradually brings the group up to very close to boiler temperature, which is highly undesirable.

I find the Cappucinatore steamer is a really useful tool in rapidly bringing the boiler temperature down when I steam the milk. I am satisfied that it works very well over a wide range of boiler pressures, from 1.2bar (and perhaps above) down to as low as 0.3 bar.

You will note that I do not normally use thermometry. I am sure it would be helpful in achieving better results, but thus far I guess I have been lazy.