erics wrote:I would electrically disconnect the heating element while you are going through this initial adventure.

Syphon out the existing water via the water level probe and refill with enough water to fill the boiler about halfway. Clean the probe, as necessary, while it is out. Inspect for some scaling using this: Checking an E61 Espresso Machine for Scale

That pressure-regulating gizmo on the FOT pump's suction might require a little homework.

Sorry for the long delay. Fired it up and works great, so much better than i expected. a really nice shot.

Eric, followed your advice. took out the vac valve. and the level sensor. Almost no scaling. sucked out the water. still tasted ok. Did not have to touch the pump.

Took apart the group and looked great, but cleaned and descaler. I am sure it was never back flushed.

Hooked up the water. The FOT pump requires 25psi or less mains. the unit came with a nice watts regulator. Flushed the boiler with heat off and level sensor disconnected. All sounded great and great flow. Hooked all back up and back flushed. Loads of crap still came out. The FOT is not quiet but sounds so much better than an ULka.

Hooked all the wires back up and let heat up. no strange noises or leaks when it got to temp. did two sink shots and drank the third. Boy was I shocked it tasted so good with so little work. the group gasket works (barely).

Seems I was worried for nothing. Sitting five years did not seem to hurt it. The real reason, I think, it's doing so well is that it was almost never used.

One one small issue. There is slight taste to the water out of water and steam taps. But I have not descaled. and will clean both wands.

Thanks guys with all the advice. and thanks to Stefano for answering my emails.

methyltheobromine wrote:
It looks like your machine has already had a lot of the wiring replaced...I see new switches, and the pressurestat has been relocated in comparison to my machines and other Euro 2000s I've seen. However, there seem to have been several changes in the Euro 2000 design during it's manufacture.

In general, parts are pretty common, with a lot of overlap with the Isomac Tea. I see your machine has non-stock water and steam wands, but the original valves. The steam & hot water valves unfortunately have Euro 2000-specific gaskets and valves, which seem to be out of stock. Over-tightening will cause the water/steam to leak.

Thanks. I did figure out bypassing water level and flushing out by both wands.

None of the wiring was replaced. what you are seeing is a factory mod I am told to make this a plumb in. The pour overs come with Ulka's and for the plump in they used the FOT, which has different electrical connections. The black tape cover the wiring adapter from the ulka to the fot. guess I could use heat shrink. all the factory wiring is actually very nice 105c. all the insulators are still fine.

the switches were orig. I have researched and what appears to be the second production run had these switches. I also read that everyone hated the steam wand on the beta, first units. I assume when this run was done, they changed the wand to a usable shape. I have seen photos on the web of this same mismatched pair of wands.

I don't think the pstat was moved. looking at inside photos over the years, I agree there were running changes or different job shops or lack of consistency. I spoke to the shop were I got from. they bought it new and never had it serviced. did not need to, right after they got it, a Peets coffee moved in next door.

Stefano warned me about the valves, luckily they feel new and seal with almost no pressure. I will be gentle. there is a post somewhere where a person took a chunk of HDPE and used it as a valve washer

boy it makes a lot of steam.

thanks for the tip on the heat. I will insulate and watch for heat issues. not having a water tank gives a ton of room for ventilation

I have read so many posts where people bought long used machines and had nightmares. I was fortunate.

Good luck with your heat issue.

thanks.

Peter