These were all just pipe dreams, I doubt it would be worth the cost or effort. I imagine some dividends could be earned by figuring out a way to get more direct air flow inside the drum however.

So far I like using the Quest and have been learning the Sight, Sound and Smell techniques. Having the probes from EricS help back up what I hear, or should I say teach me that what I am hearing and seeing are happening at about the correct times and temps.

On my last roast, last night, I noticed the entire roaster bobbing/rocking up and down slightly. Never saw that before and I suspect a bean caught somewhere. Any ideas?

I actually made a copper drum for M3, I guess that is only one in the world, it is not easy, after soldering the axis and blades, the copper drum became 1.5mm longer than before, and it also changed the shape. It made it impossible to install into M3. A mechanic help me to cut it , but it is not perfect round anymore, the beans get stuck in the gap with the body and stop the roasting.

After all the troubles , finally I successfully installed the copper drum and made it work. I think it improved the coffee just a little bit, in the mean time, I also bought a perforated drum from the manufacturer of M3, It really change the M3, after that I forgot my copper drum. Maybe I will reinstall it and test it again some day.
I also made a copper shell to replace the stainless one, it changed color by every roast, it was really fun.

Yuwen, pictures! Please!

Sorry, please wait one day, I travel for work now.

Interesting... also interested to hear about the perforated drum.

+1!!

Up that to a +2

The copper drum->

The perforated drum, made by Mr Yen. (You can order perforated drum from Mr Yen , I guess).


However, after installed the perforated drum, it is not easy to preserve the heat, it take longer time to push the beans to first crack. So I installed a second shell to replace the original stainless net.