RapidCoffee wrote:Like Jim, I am suspicious of overly fragile methodologies.
This terminology expresses exactly what I've been thinking about espresso prep lately. It reminds me of one of my other hobbies, radio contesting, where people spend thousands or even tens of thousands to get 1dB more signal gain. There's a bit of voodoo superstition in this, and possibly some placibo effect as operators are convinced that it actually produces significantly better results.
At times I've caught myself getting OCD about tiny things like a half-BAR of pressure, a half-degree of temperature, a few seconds of flow time, a tenth-gram of dose, sweeping every last grain of coffee out of the grinder/doser, filling evey gap in the surface of the puck, etc., etc., etc.
But what I found really affects taste are these things (adding to/expanding on Jim's list):
1. The coffee -- of course.
2. Freshness, especially if, like me, you use a self-defrosting freezer.
3. Dose -- this has major impact on the flavor profile
4. Grind -- ditto
5. Temperature -- a more subtle effect
The combination of coffee, dose and grind define the flow rate, so I didn't list it separately. Basically, I think of the flow rate as producing a certain extraction ratio (extraction weight / coffee weight) within an "espresso-reasonable" amount of time (20-30 seconds.) This is roughly the same thing as whether the coffee tastes best to me when pulled ristretto, normale, "standard" or lungo.
I used to be pretty OCD about shot time, always trying to hit either 25 seconds or whatever time was recommended by the roaster or reviewer. But more recently I've allowed some leeway in this, using the grams of weight in the cup and the blonding point as the indicators of shot completion and being more relaxed about time. For example, if I'm pulling a ristretto, and the blonding point and approximately 1:1 extraction ratio occur at 32 seconds, I don't obsess that the time ran a little long -- provided that the shot tastes good. If it tastes underextracted, then I'll consider adjusting the flow rate to be a little faster, either by lowering the dose (easier and probably the first thing I'll try) or loosening the grind.
One thing that convinced me about the generality of shot time recommendations is that different machines, doses and grinds produce different dwell times (time to appearance of first drops of espresso). I believe Jim recommended adding half the dwell time to the remainder of the shot time to get the total time. I kept finding that shots tasted better if the pull time was towards the higher end of the range, and when I deducted half the dwell time it fell much closer to the so-called ideal time of 25ish seconds. But even if it didn't fall within the 20-30 second window, I still think taste has to be the guide and shot time is only a general target. It's true that the longer water is in contact with the coffee, the more likely it is that undesirable flavor components will be extracted, and it's likely if your shots are running 40-50 seconds they're probably not going to taste very good. But I'm not convinced that a few extra seconds have all that much impact, and certainly not as much as coffee/dose/grind. I think the effect shot time has on the result is roughly similar to the effect of temperature, which is fairly subtle within a narrow range (with the caveat that some of our tasters seem to be much more sensitive about these variations that I am.) Sure, if the shot runs really long (say 40-50 seconds), then the water has been in contact with the coffee a long time and will probably pull some undesirable flavors out of it.
As far as prep goes, with my gear I've found the only really important things are making sure 1) the distribution isn't drastically uneven, 2) the edges of the puck are sealed (i.e., light NEWS tamp and/or nutating tamp), 3) the puck isn't noticably canted. This ensures that I don't get a blond gusher, spritzes, channeling, etc. Once those defects are eliminated, it's all about the extraction ratio and blonding point (both of which can be thought of as being defined by the flow rate.)
In a sense, Jim's statement is a semi-tautology. If you eliminate flow defects, then the taste will be defined by the flow rate, which in turn is defined by the coffee/dose/grind. The taste will be optimum at some flow rate, which can be measured by volume or extraction ratio and the blonding point (assuming a "reasonable" flow time) You can tweak the temperature or pressure and get small changes in taste, but assuming the flow quality and rate stay the same, altering the tamp and distribution ritual won't change the taste.