OK. So I have this mazzer mini. Its new and im new to espresso world too. I have noticed the need to adjust mazzer grind occas. Now the question: When you make adjustments to espresso grind do you move the rotating adjustment dial one whole number (or thereabouts) or just one or two micro movements (from one vertical rib to the next)?
Hope it makes sense.

PS: depending on your response to the above question, How many "ribs", or numbers on top of plate, do you adjust it for:
A. decaf vs regular (of the same type of bean)
B. old vs. new beans (like black cat for example)

good job everyone with supporting us new ones. We will gladly supply you with good espresso when you get too old to make it yourself!

Melbourne beach. Whats up? My hometown. Well indialantic actually. Used to work for ocean ave/Bruce.

I have a mini,major,& a kony. Usually I adjust the grind and its about 1 or 2 vertical lines of movement. But when switching beans it may be 1 or 2 whole numbers. I may take 3-5 shots to get what I'm looking for. Then it all be small adjustments to stay in the zone. Sometimes I will go days without needing a adjustment.

You will get it wired also. Keep in there.

Later.
Jon

mule wrote:When you make adjustments to espresso grind do you move the rotating adjustment dial one whole number (or thereabouts) or just one or two micro movements (from one vertical rib to the next)?

Terminology: Notch = one of the raised detents or ribs.

Once you have found the correct setting, the majority of coffees will be within ± 2 notches at the same weight. As a general guide, if I see a complete gusher because of a grind setting error, I move it 4 notches finer. A fast pour? Move around 2 notches. From there it's minor tweaks of less than a notch. If it chokes completely as in ZERO flow, at least 4 notches coarser. If the pour is very slow almost to the point of stalling, go 2-3 notches coarser. The thread Just starting out, grinder setting advice? offers more suggestions (e.g., how to "feel" if the grind setting is right).

mule wrote:How many "ribs", or numbers on top of plate, do you adjust it for:
A. decaf vs regular (of the same type of bean)
B. old vs. new beans (like black cat for example)

Decaf is MUCH finer than regular. I would start at 3-4 notches finer. "Old" beans is a relative term; for sake of argument, you would need to move the adjustment 2-3 notches finer for coffee that's a couple weeks old versus coffee that's four days post-roast.

I have a new Mazzer Mini ( ) and it is producing a good grind, but I am concerned that something is out of whack. The issue is that the grind dial is set to BELOW zero on the 0-8 point scale (I am about two notches below the 0 mark on the dial). The burrs sound to be just about colliding at this point. However this is where the dial needs to be to get a 20 second pull using 14g of grind.

I would be very interested to know what number on the dial other Mini owners are set at??

Cheers -

Mine is around the 8 mark. I'm not sure if that means anything. When I bought it, there was a sticker on the collar that indicated the best starting point. It seemed to be bang on for a 25 second pull. That sticker is right over the 8 on my mazzers collar.

electronker wrote:I have a new Mazzer Mini ( ) and it is producing a good grind, but I am concerned that something is out of whack. The issue is that the grind dial is set to BELOW zero on the 0-8 point scale (I am about two notches below the 0 mark on the dial). The burrs sound to be just about colliding at this point. However this is where the dial needs to be to get a 20 second pull using 14g of grind.

I would be very interested to know what number on the dial other Mini owners are set at??

Cheers -

Hi
As Endo says, on a new Mazzer there is (should be anyway) a factory applied sticker to indicate the approximate starting point for espresso grind for that particular grinder. It will be in a slightly dfferent place on each grinder that comes out of the factory. You can't use the numbers to compare one grinder with another, unfortunately, and the numbers are meaningless in absolute terms. They may be useful if the sticker comes off, or if you want to switch between grind sizes, for drip coffee etc..

(on mine ths ticket is almost exactly over the "0" mark on the collar, but it doesn't mean anything)

As others point out the sticker is just a reference point and is unique between grinders. If you have to adjust the grinder to the point that the burrs touch (you will get a high pitched squeal when they kiss) and are still getting fast shots it may be your coffee. The older the coffee the tighter the grind, you may simply have coffee that is past its prime or your technique is off and you are getting massive channeling.

I have a new Mazzer Mini ( ) and it is producing a good grind, but I am concerned that something is out of whack. The issue is that the grind dial is set to BELOW zero on the 0-8 point scale (I am about two notches below the 0 mark on the dial). The burrs sound to be just about colliding at this point. However this is where the dial needs to be to get a 20 second pull using 14g of grind.

Ron,

My Mini makes a little*whirling* noise near the "0" setting, but as many pointed out here, that is not the ABSOLUTE zero, meaning the point at which the burrs actually touch. Just to be sure, run your grinder without beans and slowly turn the dial to finer settings until the burrs touch; you'll know it for sure when it happens. No damage will occurr if you do this slowly. This will show you that absolute zero is a bit less than the marked starting point that Mazzer deemed for your grinder.

Also as others have mentioned, beans make all the difference in the world. Old stale beans will require a finer grind than fresh beans. If you are using fresh roasted beans and are having gushers, I agree with Dave in that you are suffering from massive channeling, which should be evident when you look at the spent puck.

Good luck!

Espresso range on my mini is just under the "1" on the dial. Around "3" is drip and "4" is only good for french press. Differences in bean origin, roast level, age and humidity usually never combine for more than 2 or 3 notch changes. After you've used the machine a while, you get a feel for how much to change to adjust almost perfectly. I never have more than one sink shot in a row any more (since I got the La Cimbali Junior at least) unless the coffee/roast is unsuitable for espresso (had some problems with Jimma Nijusie Lemma at less than FC roast).