another_jim wrote:Abe, mostly I'm not big updosing fan, but I think there are exceptions. The classic updosed ristretto is Vivace's Dolce, which does presents as a very intense flavor, balanced towards bitter. But it is not a dull bitterness, but more a woody and cleanly astringent one. This is not to my taste, but it is a legitimate drink. It could be this style of shot has become a little cliche, since so many cafes imitate it.
This thread continues to be enlightening, and has sort of cleared up a mystery for me.
Back when I first started with home espresso, I got some Vivace Dolce and loved it. Sweet and rich, with big flavor, one of the few blends I really liked (I'm a 13g-14g SO guy for the most part.)
Not knowing any better, I dosed the Dolce at 16g and pulled 1.75-2 oz. Since then, I've ordered it several times and have never been able to reproduce that first experience. Mostly, the cup has been too acid. Following malachi's recommendation, I increased the dose to 17g-18g and the temperature to 203 degrees, but still no joy. Then after reading this thread, and especially the post from Jim quoted above, I realized that I was still trying to pull something between a Standard and Normale, usually more towards the latter. I never pull ristrettos with my SOs and don't have a lot of experience with them.
This morning I set the grind finer and pulled a 17g ristretto according to Jim's guidlines (30-35 seconds, 1 oz liquid, .5 oz weight). Sure enough, the resulting flavor profile was exactly as Jim describes above: intense flavor but balanced toward the bitter. Very good, especially in a milk drink, but not really to my taste as straight espresso.
This doesn't necessarily explain why my first experiences with Dolce were so positive, and why the cup seemed to be more balanced to the caramels. However, it's quite possible that I downdosed even further than I remember, possibly down to 14g-15g. Or, it may have been a brief blending or roasting anamoly or some sort of accident that resulted from my noobie technique at the time. Or maybe I've just gotten conditioned to the taste of lower dosed SOs.