On a more serious note in response to your point, Marshall:
Marshall wrote:Money quote from Kalefa Sanneh's great profile of El Salvador grower, Aida Batlle, and the third wave movement in this week's (11/21/11) The New Yorker:
Aida Batlle paraphrased in the New Yorker wrote:But an accomplished cupper like Batlle need not obsess over brewing methods, because she knows what she's doing, and what she's tasting, regardless of muddiness. An obsession with brewing protocol is generally the mark of an amateur -- that pitiable person who makes a simple thing complicated in the futile hope of feeling kinship with the professionals.
With great respect to Aida, who's produced some of the finest coffees I've ever tasted, I'm a bit perplexed by the sentiment in this snippet (which, granted, is offered well out of context). But "obsession" is exactly the kind of term that needs a good dose of context. If you own an espresso machine that costs more than $100, there are probably only a few tens of thousands of people on this planet that wouldn't call you
obsessed.
I'd be curious to know what context she used it in. Because you could, I think, equally pan people who give nary a care to protocol and cleanliness as marked by amateurishness, over-simplifying a moderately simple thing and futilely fancying that they're akin to coffee professionals. It just depends on what 'sector' of the coffee community is frustrating you at any given moment. In all honesty, in my experience, and I'd bet yours too if you're honest, the problem I described above is a much bigger problem for most people in the coffee industry: a little more "obsession" from
most people wouldn't hurt at all.
Regarding the mention about muddiness, above, as far as I know, "clean cup" is a common criterion on cupping forms, and I certainly feel it's a major contributor to what makes a cup of coffee enjoyable or not. A "muddy" cup shrouds and spoils the good things in the coffee no matter if or how well you can still taste them. I don't like dead pixels on my computer screen or smudges on my glasses. Likewise, I wouldn't stir dirt in my coffee and then appreciate it equally because "I know what I'm tasting, regardless." Coffee is complex. Making coffee doesn't have to be, but making coffee taste the best it can certainly can be. True coffee professionals—the ones who consistently make great coffee—don't obsess about protocol because they already did (or the person who trained them did) and they've absorbed it to the point where it comes easily to them and/or they know what they want—not because it's unimportant.
Espresso brewed on a group that's sat hot and dirty for many hours tastes inferior to espresso brewed from a clean group. It's a lot more subtle than, say, Coke vs. Pepsi or a washed South American bourbon vs. an aged Sumatra, but it's not
that subtle. If you notice it, clean your group more often. If not, more power to you.