by malachi on Mon Nov 14, 2005 5:36 pm
Shot Quality
I'm mentioned the quality of the espresso a few times before - but I'm going to go into a little more detail in this post.
Right now I'm going based on two espressos only. The first was an experimental blend from Andrew Barnett of Ecco Caffe. This was a very sweet and rich coffee, heavy in pulped naturals, which performed best at higher temps and with a down-dosed triple basket. The second is the espresso from Hines Public Market Coffee. This is a complex coffee, with tons of fruit and lovely chocolate notes, which performed best at a mid-point temp and with a very slightly up-dosed double basket.
First of all... with this machine, both coffees were reproduced beautifully. The coffees showed incredibly well.
There were some commonalities between the two espressos as shots. First, in both cases there was a dense, syrupy feel to the shots. There was a level of "concentration" of flavours that I'm used to getting in good shots off commercial machines. Secondly, the elusive "clarity in the cup" was present in both cases. This is a "distinction" and separation between the various flavours that allows you to taste the complexity of all the coffees that go into the blend - rather than one overall blended flavour. Third, in both cases the aftertaste was incredibly long-lasting. I think this is at least in part due to that dense mouthfeel and intensified, concentrated flavour profile. Finally, the crema produced from both espressos was noticeably tight and long-lasting.
There were also some differences in how the coffees were reproduced.
With the Ecco Caffe, there was a slight "damp paper" note that I had not tasted when prepared on an E61 machine. This was a subtle note that had been hidden before and which now became distinct. Obviously, this was not a desirable flavour to find. At the same time, the chocolate flavour in the coffee expanded and became incredibly complex - revealing itself to actually consist of a range of flavours (dutch processed cocoa, Belgian dark chocolate and even a little touch of vanilla and cocoa butter).
With the Hines espresso, the sweet fruit (strawberry, dried blueberry and passion fruit) became incredibly pronounced. As with the Ecco Caffe, I was able to taste more complexity in the chocolate tones - which also had the effect of "widening" on the palate and becoming very heavy. This balanced out the enhanced fruit flavours nicely.
So far, I'm finding the shots from this machine to be less like what I'd get from a Linea than what I'd get from the temp-stabilized, PID'ed Mistral.
"Taste is the only morality." -- John Ruskin