La Marzocco GS/3 MP Review - Page 2

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#11: Post by HB (original poster) »

The La Marzocco GS/3 is available in two models, the AV and MP. The AV uses programmable 1-shot, 2-shot, or continuous pour buttons to actuate the brew cycle; preinfusion is provided by pressure from the steam boiler. The barista can set the duration of the preinfusion cycle before the full pump pressure begins and also the total shot volume. The MP, like the one in this review, uses a paddle to actuate and terminate the brew cycle. The MP's preinfusion is provided by line pressure if plumbed in or steam boiler pressure if running from the reservoir, however the barista controls how long the preinfusion phase lasts by moving the paddle through different positions:


From How to install a brewhead pressure gauge on La Marzocco GS/3 MP

The arc in blue starting with the preinfusion position (brown dot) and the pump on position (green arrow) is actually smaller than depicted above. But suffice it to say, the paddle effectively has three positions: off, preinfusion, and on. This video shows the mechanics of it:
From La Marzocco GS/3 Mechanical Paddle : How it works

If you want to see all the bits and pieces, see the video in New La Marzocco Paddle Service Video.

For sake of completeness, it's worth understanding the variant of this operation, available in the commercial La Marzocco Strada (2 and 3 group) and Shotpuller (1 group, no steam). The Strada MP starts the pump as soon as the paddle is pushed left, but the grouphead's port configuration only allows preinfusion via line pressure until the paddle reaches the mid-point. Past the mid-point, the full pressure of the pump enters the grouphead through another port. If you have steady hands, you can surf the Strada's crossover point between the preinfusion and full line pressure ports, but in my experience, I'm really limited to one addition set point (e.g., 0 bar, preinfusion at 3 bar, 6 bar slightly past the midpoint, and full pressure to the far left).

Note that How to install a brewhead pressure gauge on La Marzocco GS/3 MP documents how to convert the operation of a GS/3 MP to the Strada's operation, but it's not an OEM configuration as the GS/3 MP wasn't designed with immediate pump-on operation in mind. That is, the Strada's programming automatically shuts off the pump after 2 minutes of continuous operation; it's programmed that way so if the paddle is bumped while the machine is off and then it automatically powers up later the next morning, there's no risk of the pump running continuously and burning out. It's also worth noting that the Strada's driptray must be plumbed, so there's also no risk of overflowing it, unlike the GS/3.

That caveat aside, I've used the "brew pressure surfing" technique on my Strada for the last couple years and find that it boosts the machine's forgiveness factor (0 bar -> 6 -> 9 -> 6 bar is my preferred profile, the 6 bar being the "surf" of the preinfusion/full pressure crossover point). If it's plumbed in, the stock GS/3 can mimic this profile with line pressure to a certain degree, of course limited to typical mains pressure of ~60 PSI / 4 bar (thus 0-4-9-4 bar). Keep in mind though that this usage isn't reasonable in a high-output milieu. For example, when I catered an event with 20-30 attendees at a local car dealership with the GS/3, I did the (no pump) preinfusion for 3 seconds and then pushed the paddle full left. When using a Strada for small group of espresso aficionados, I take the extra time to surf the preinfusion/full pressure crossover point. The next model up, the Strada EP, has a variable-speed pump that allows the barista to program a pressure profile. There's no EP model for the GS/3 line, although some owners have installed their own variable speed pumps (e.g., 'Pressure Profiling' With The Fluid-O-Tech TMFR Pump).
Dan Kehn

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#12: Post by HB (original poster) »

This morning the GS/3 had its last field trip to a local car dealership event before wrapping up the review. Over the course of two hours, I served around 50 drinks (espressos, cappuccinos, lattes, Americanos; most asked for cappuccinos). It was really easy. The only time I fell behind was when I stopped to chat with someone.

Before leaving for the "cars & coffee" event, I had switched the GS/3 from plumbed-in to reservoir. The clear plastic reservoir sits directly beneath the two boilers and behind the driptray. Below is the water inlet from the reservoir connected to the rotary pump:


Blue arrows show direction of water flow from reservoir to pump

To refill the reservoir, you must first remove the driptray and then slide the reservoir forward a few inches to expose a small rectangular opening. Once installed, the reservoir is refilled thorough this opening with the reservoir in place since it's tethered by the clear inlet tubing affixed to the bottom of the reservoir (i.e., to remove the reservoir, you must first disconnect it from the pump shown above since the other end of the inlet tubing is attached to the inside floor of the reservoir).

I also swapped the standard no-burn steam wand for the optional "burn me" steam wand. Chris Tacy's review of the GS/3 prototype recognized that some testers weren't happy with the stock wand/tip and early owner reports from the first year or two supported these critics, but these issues have clearly been addressed in today's model. Plainly stated, I think the GS/3 stock configuration is excellent and deserves a five-star rating (or a perfect 10, to use the site's previous ratings system). The burn me wand is slightly faster, which may be appreciated by those who regularly steam very large lattes in the same spirit as a Starbucks Venti. But for those who don't serve Big Gulp lattes, the stock configuration is unbeatable.

As noted earlier in the review, if the MP isn't plumbed in, preinfusion pressure is provided by the steam boiler. That's sufficient pressure to wet the puck, but this morning, I noticed the forgiveness factor suffered compared to when the MP was plumbed in and supplied with 3+ bars of preinfusion pressure. As a matter of convenience, the reservoir located beneath the machine is welcome, but to fully realize the GS/3 MP's espresso potential, I would want it plumbed in.

For sake of completeness, please note that the GS/3 AV's preinfusion works differently than the MP's. Whether plumbed-in or drawing from the reservoir, the AV uses the pump for preinfusion. That is, the pump starts immediately to build pressure, but the grouphead solenoid closes after a short pause, producing a "speed bump" pressure profile. From my 2006 writeup One week with the La Marzocco GS3 AV:



The GS/3 AV has a solenoid that interrupts the pump for a programmable amount of time. That is, the pump goes on... pause 1... solenoid closes... pause 2... solenoid reopens. The barista can set the length of pause 1 and pause 2.

This post concludes the research phase of the La Marzocco GS/3 MP review. After a pause to allow for questions, comments, or corrections, I will publish the final writeup.
Dan Kehn

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#13: Post by HB (original poster) »

Now that I'm ready to write the conclusion for the GS/3 MP, I've re-read the conclusion I wrote for the GS/3 AV just over 7 years ago in One week with the La Marzocco GS3, excerpted below.

For the most part, my comments then hold today, though now I recognize more than ever the value of consistency shot-to-shot and the barista's confidence that changing one variable (e.g., temperature, dose) will produce the desired result. In that regard, the GS/3 excels. Plainly stated, it's a worthy reference platform for professional baristas and home baristas, assuming one is willing to part with a large stack of $100 bills to acquire one.

As I noted earlier in this thread, I find the MP's line pressure preinfusion more effective than the AV's self-contained design; subsequently the MP's forgiveness factor is greater and the probability of better, more consistent espresso is higher. Given my experience with serving a crowd with the GS/3, I'll amend my 2006 comment about the "ungainly" steam wand/steam toggle valve configuration. With a little adjustment to my routine (i.e., shifting to the left of the machine so the valve would be naturally closer to my left hand), the steam toggle valve was easy to bump closed without looking. I also appreciated La Marzocco's "quick set" options since it eliminates the need to traverse rarely-used settings to modify more frequently-used ones like brew and steam temperature (in full disclosure, if it was an available feature back then, I didn't know at the time).
In 2006 HB wrote:I'm surprised how little that I was surprised; if anything, I'm a little disappointed. Although the machine met all the performance claims I've read, the same feeling one experiences after having seen a critically acclaimed film befell me, the feeling that anything less than absolutely mindbogglingly fantastic misses the mark. Most assuredly I cast an eye about the kitchen and listened carefully. Never did I hear a chorus of angels heralding the birth of a new espresso from the GS3's grouphead, nor did I see a heavenly glow envelop the room. That's the risk of unnaturally heightened expectations -- specifically my expectation that the exceptional espresso "ceiling" would rise under the mystical powers of the GS3.

A couple weeks ago Sean Lennon and I talked about his modifications to the Brewtus. He remarked that none of the modifications he made fundamentally changed the espresso machine's maximum potential, rather they increased the frequency of superior results. That was the impression that lasted with me throughout the week with the GS3. It was easy to pull good espressos on day 1 and very good espressos every day thereafter. Once or twice I thought the ceiling might move upward. Looking back on it, more realistically it was a case of the serendipitous "once a month" near godshot arriving, arguably with the aid of the GS3's predictable, solid performance.

Re-reading Chris' conclusion, I'm impressed how balanced it is despite his clearly effusive enthusiasm. His advice about who should and who shouldn't consider the pricey GS3 resonated with me. Interpreting the results of the poll What does your typical espresso rate? suggests that nearly half of the HB membership thinks their daily espressos are at least "very good." Arguments about the accuracy of self-evaluations and meaningfulness of numerical designations aside for a moment, the poll shows that the majority are pleased with their results. It begs the question: How much more would they be pleased with the results if a brand-new GS3 arrived in their kitchen, and would they agree the incremental improvement was worth the sticker price? Would a consistent improvement of one-half point (from midway between good/very good to a solid "very good") be worth more than four grand? Or would an increased frequency of the higher portion of the spectrum they already know today be enough?

Jim commented offline his often-repeated observation is that there is no jump from an E61 box to something better that will be nearly as dramatic as going from a Silvia to an E61 box.

My gut reaction is that his observation holds true in the GS3's case too, despite my agreement that the GS3 tops every performance-related category noted in a Buyer's Guide conclusion (Exceptional Espresso, Morning After, Cappuccino Lover's). Then again, my viewpoint may be constrained by having only one week to experiment. Given a few months' time, perhaps I would have "unlocked new understandings about espresso" as Chris did, thanks to the GS3's temperature accuracy and precision.

In contrast, I didn't share Chris' enthusiasm for the GS3's usability. Perhaps, as Greg mentioned earlier, it may take "some getting used to", though I've used plenty of espresso machines that seemed well adapted to how I like to work, not vice-verse. Subsequently I would dock its Convenience / Features score due to the ungainly layout of the steam arm / steam arm toggle / brew button array. I'm hopeful that a smart product ergonomics design engineer will revisit the prototype control panel layout too. It's bank of same-sized buttons offer poor visual clues and no tactical clues to their different purposes. I was almost ready to place a big piece of masking tape near the correct button (if you look closely at the extraction videos, you'll notice that I hesitate for an instant as I confirmed which button to press :roll:). I have a nagging feeling that the focus on performance and reusing existing components trumped refinements one would have expected in a groundbreaking home espresso machine. Then again, it's a prototype, it may change in the final version, right?

Do I plan to add myself to the waiting list? Despite some quibbling above, it's really, really tempting. The forgiveness factor is very good. The beast clearly intends to kick butt in the WBC temperature torture test. You can tweak brew temperature with confidence and speed. It's a cappuccino loving locomotive and the velocity / volume of the steam balance is a true joy. And the compactness? Heck, I've reviewed prosumer espresso machines that would seem cramped in the same quarters the GS3 calls comfy. Were that not enough, the wife even gave me the green light to build an espresso bar in the rec room ("Don't complain if the kids bust one of your precious cups!").

So what's my answer? No thanks.
The last line of my 2006 review is ironic. While I said I'd pass back then, it pains me to see it go today. Even though I have its big brother, the two-group Strada MP, on my espresso bar, I seriously considered keeping the GS/3 "just in case" I needed a portable cafe-quality setup. :lol:
Dan Kehn

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#14: Post by TomC »

Extremely well crafted write-up. I'd love to know your thoughts as to how the stock MP GS3 lines up to your Strada? In simple terms, if one could pony up for a Strada, is there much left on the table by staying with the GS3 MP?
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#15: Post by HB (original poster) »

Sorry Tom for the slow response, I was distracted by the recent server upgrade work and I missed your question! Back on topic...

As I've mentioned in the forums, I spend most of my Friday mornings at Counter Culture Coffee. They have training classes and also evaluate espresso equipment like the La Marzocco Strada MP and EP, Nuova Simonelli Aurelia, etc. These regular get-togethers give me a chance to try out different commercial espresso equipment, including ones like the 2-group Strada MP that I ultimately installed in my espresso bar about two years ago.

I wondered the same thing as you, i.e., how would the GS/3 MP compare with the Strada MP. If the GS/3 is plumbed in, the comparison is very very close since you can mimic the Strada "brew pressure surfing" technique I mentioned in an earlier post (excerpted below for convenient reference):
HB wrote:...I've used the "brew pressure surfing" technique on my Strada for the last couple years and find that it boosts the machine's forgiveness factor (0 bar -> 6 -> 9 -> 6 bar is my preferred profile, the 6 bar being the "surf" of the preinfusion/full pressure crossover point). If it's plumbed in, the stock GS/3 can mimic this profile with line pressure to a certain degree, of course limited to typical mains pressure of ~60 PSI / 4 bar (thus 0-4-9-4 bar).
Simply stated, in their stock configuration, the Strada MP offers a slight forgiveness factor advantage over the GS/3 that some may appreciate. I say "some" because not everyone bothers with preinfusion; for example, four-time barista SERBC champ Lem Butler didn't bother with preinfusion in his Newbie Introduction to Espresso - Latte Art video. He thinks it's an unnecessary step that slows prep time; he just slams the paddle full left.

As for steaming, I consider the Strada and GS/3 equals. With its 4900W steam boiler, the Strada can steam paintbucket sized lattes all day, but realistically the GS/3's steam time of less than 20 seconds for a latte is faster than the total extraction time. That's plenty fast enough.

Ergonomically, the Strada wins on several fronts: Big can't miss steam lever, brew gauge atop the group, huge driptray that's easily removed/cleaned (and it's height adjustable). On the other hand, the GS/3 temperature programming is more straightforward. With the Strada, setting the brew temperature requires that you first traverse a lot of other options in the "barista program menu"; with the GS/3, the predefined shortcut keys get you to the same place in one fn+ key press.

Unless you own a cafe, an espresso website ;-), or plan on doing in-house training, the Strada is definitely overkill. I like the extra group for side-by-side blind testing, but otherwise the Strada MP holds only tiny advantages over the GS/3 MP.
Dan Kehn

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