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Buyer's Guide to the Gaggia Achille - Page 21

Postby KarlSchneider on Mon Nov 20, 2006 9:47 pm

Some pics.

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Postby cannonfodder on Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:48 pm

KarlSchneider wrote:Other thoughts. The machines feel different. I think I am spoiled by the build quality of the Cremina and the Elektra. They feel more solid to me.

KS


I would say that is a good assessment. The Cremina is very squat and wide where the Achille is tall and narrow. That makes it a little heavy on the top. It is not prone to scooting all over the counter like the La Pavoni due to the sticky feet. However you have to keep a firm grip on the portafilter handle or it front loads and will tip up. The large base on the Elektra makes it more stable, a larger base on the Achille would be nice.

I was somewhat surprised at the compact size of the Cremina, I was expecting a little larger frame. The short case puts the center of gravity lower. I barely had to hold the portafilter handle while pulling a shot; it was very stable on the bench.

Each machine performed admirably and produces it own unique drink. The Elektra was lighter, more refreshing, while the Cremina and Achille were more robust and full bodied but each produces a unique signature. I would not say one is better than the other; both make a very good cup, similar in body but different in nuance.
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Postby Cartesian on Tue Nov 21, 2006 5:12 am

KarlSchneider wrote:Other thoughts. The machines feel different. I think I am spoiled by the build quality of the Cremina and the Elektra. They feel more solid to me. One analogy might be the Achille feels like the Outback we own. I notice a big difference when I ride in my colleagues 7-series BMW and in another's high-end Volvo wagon. The Achille/Subaru is perfectly adequate but not the same as the Cremina/Elektra. I am talking only of the feel of the machine...


As a newbie and proud owner of Achille for already 22h30min (it arrived yesterday noon) I cannot comment on the espresso it makes, but I can surely say my 220V model leaks, -- there was water leaking from boiler cover joints with base and the base itself, it even blew 30mA fuse (guess it is called earth leakage circuit breaker).
I will see how the vendor treats my case (ordered from http://www.espressocoffeeshop.com), but having this kind of problem is not a particularly good start, especially if you consider the asking price (even if 220V version costs less than US model, it is not exactly cheap) and top of the range status. :?
---------------------------------------
Got the reply from "espressocoffeeshop". Good news -- they will take care of the problem, Achille will be going back to Italy for a repair (FEDEX will pick it up at my place free of charge).
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Postby KarlSchneider on Tue Nov 21, 2006 9:06 pm

As I finish up my brief exposure to the Achille I want to first of all thank cannonfodder. He not only offered to make this possible for me he also brought the machine to my house and left it for me to play with for a couple of days. I also want to thank Dan (aka HB) for the opportunity.

I think the Achille is an excellent machine. I like all the shots I have had. It is interesting to me that the most consistently good seem to have been the Americano's. Do not take this as a back-handed compliment. As an a long-time wine lover I have discovered that truly perceptive tasting of wines can often be done under odd circumstances. It is very instructive to taste white wines warmer than normal and red wines colder than normal. These circumstances often disclose faults in the wines. Coldness covers up oxidation in a white, for example. Good Americano's says to me that the flavor profile is one of clarity. You will find many serious espresso folk who praise clarity. I think this potential for clarity is a clear plus for the Achille.

For anyone contemplating an Achille I would suggest studying not so much the Achille as yourself. What are your real needs and uses? The machine that will best suit your needs is the one that matches how you use it and what you want. The Achille, the Elektra and the Cremina are all wonderful machines. I suspect there are others as well but I have no direct experience of them. Once I see the essential quality of these three I conclude each is radically different and as such would be preferable for different users.

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Postby KarlSchneider on Tue Nov 21, 2006 9:15 pm

Three Achille shots tonight. All were Yemen Sana'ani roasted ca. 50 hours ago. A bit too early. The first was too light. The second was quite on target but perhaps a tad heavy in the feel. This is curious in that young Yemen seems to me lighter and to develop "weight" as it developed. It seems a bit early to be so heavy.

Third cup was at the top. Maybe also a touch on the heavy side but this is clearly personal preference. Nice crema pattern in the cup. I suspect cannonfodder would have preferred this one.

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Postby peacecup on Tue Nov 21, 2006 9:23 pm

Love the videos Dan,

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Postby KarlSchneider on Tue Nov 21, 2006 9:39 pm

Hi Cartesian,

I hope you get your problems worked out.

I lived in Brussels in 1973-74 pn Avenue Wolvendal in Uccle. I was a student writing a dissertation in philosophy (not on Descartes). Bought good coffee beans from a store near the center of that section of the city.

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Postby peacecup on Tue Nov 21, 2006 10:49 pm

Got the reply from "espressocoffeeshop". Good news -- they will take care of the problem, Achille will be going back to Italy for a repair (FEDEX will pick it up at my place free of charge).


Well, I'm glad the retailer will be taking care of the problem. When I was searching for a lever machine I finally settled on a new one to avoid this exact type of problem. I have been lucky, but it must be dissappointing for you to have to send it back. Good luck in getting it fixed, and I hope it lives happily ever after!

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Postby HB on Sat Nov 25, 2006 9:26 pm

How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love HXs covers the basic principles behind the operation of HX espresso machines, but your technique has to be adapted slightly for each machine, dependent on the particulars of its design. A thermofilter and temperature datalogger are very efficient tools for fine-tuning the requisite flush routine in minutes, not days as one would need if done by observation and taste alone. With this in mind, I measured the Achille's recovery and rebound times to determine the optimal routine. Everything I found was consistent with Dave's recommendations based on his first week with the Achille, which goes to show that skill and intuition can get you there (almost) as quickly as expensive temperature measurement equipment.

Espresso machines like the Cimbali Junior have an abundance of "thermal memory". Their brew temperature is highly dependent on the temperature of the heavy brew group and the boiler pressure. The ever-popular E61 semi-commercial espresso machines (La Valentina, Bricoletta, Andreja Premium, Giotto Premium, Expobar Pulser, etc.) have thermal memory too, but they'll "reset" in five minutes to a predictable state independent of the prior operation over the last twenty minutes. The thermal memory of the proprietary group of the Elektra A3 was in between these two (Cimbali "elephant memory" Junior and semi-commercial E61). The Achille defines the opposite extreme: Practically no thermal memory at all.

Before offering my guess of why that is, consider its temperature profile at two boiler settings:

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Pump displaces approximately two ounces; recording stopped when flow slowed at ~17 seconds

Notice in both cases the temperature is rising unabated. Unlike the semi-commercial E61s, the Achille's powerful heating element has no trouble recovering during the extraction. In fact, the heating element kicks in mid-shot and the temperature rise only accelerates, especially if it's starting from a higher boiler setting, as shown by the red curve for the boiler pressure of 1.25 bar. Subsequently the flush strategy is undoubtedly flush-n-go, not the "flush... wait for temperature to rebound... go" strategy of many E61s. You can see in this video how quickly I locked in after the flush:


My haste wasn't for video production reasons - it's required to avoid going straight past the target brew temperature. In many respects, this makes for the easiest-to-explain flush routine. Pump the handle n times, lock in the portafilter, pull. End of story. No fuss, no muss.

The profile is fairly flat towards the tail, but not ironing board flat. Keep in mind, however, that the thermofilter shows boiler performance, not actual brew time temperatures because the plastic puck doesn't precisely simulate a coffee puck:

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The "over the lip" measurement doesn't capture the whole picture either; that's a story for another day

Although I was very satisfied with the espresso performance of the Achille, I wanted to check if a flatter profile would produce an even better one. I ran the same series as above, but this time turning off the machine before starting the extraction. Since it's a manual, who needs electricity once the water is flowing, right? It did indeed produce a flatter to slightly declining tail profile, proving that the heating element is impacting the brew temperature during the extraction. I'm still judging whether it matters to shot quality; my gut feel is that low temperature, darker roasts may benefit, or extractions that go beyond 25 seconds.

From a design perspective, I find the Achille's HX performance surprising. It has nearly instantaneous recovery, a simple flush routine, and manages to avoid overheating on successive shots. Why, I wondered, didn't the grouphead overheat from the tail-end rise over a series of shots? Once I disassembled the group, I think that I understand: The Achille is an HX-centric espresso machine that relies very little on the grouphead for attenuating brew temperature. Unlike the massive Cimbali Junior group / HX or the heavy E61 group, the Achille's is more modestly proportioned. In terms of heat storage, the upper portion serves more of a structural role than temperature moderation. It encloses a nylon piston pump and gets hot from the boiler, but its contact is incidental. On the other hand, the lower group section (beneath the seam) is directly attached to the boiler to keep it warm. It's a big assumption on my part, but I believe the aluminum (yes, not brass, it's aluminum) dispersion block is a very necessary part of this machine's design. Aluminum warms and cools in a flash, which would be an important attribute of an HX-centric machine. After all, if the dispersion block was brass, it would retain far more heat over a series of extractions, ultimately overheating the group. In addition, the HX is saturated in steam, not boiler water, allowing the heating element to be engaged during an extraction without pushing the brew temperature through the roof. Or at least that's my take on it.

Even if my assumptions about the reasons behind their choices are wrong, my hat's off to the engineers who designed the Achille. The pump design is smart, the brew system's recovery is rocket fast and yet predictable, and when it comes to extraction quality, it's one of the more forgiving espresso machines that I've used, including the famed E61s. Not bad for a machine weighing less than 20 pounds.

PS: If anyone has closing questions about the Achille, please speak up. Dave and I are wrapping up the review for an early December publication.
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Postby GreatDane on Sun Nov 26, 2006 3:55 am

I have an observation and a question. None of the reviews have really commented on the basket size. From what I understand the Achille takes a standard 58mm basket. Cannonfodder pointed this out early in the review, but none of you have said much about the increased volume of coffee for the shots. So is it a non-issue? Most lever machines take from 45mm-51mm baskets. Can you talk about basket size? What are your thoughts and experiences. Does it require a harder pull? I know Cannonfodder had a more difficult time with the single basket shots.

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