Buyer's Guide to the Expobar Brewtus III - Page 2

by HB on Wed Feb 04, 2009 7:46 am

Michal wrote:My Brewtus also came with a boiler pressure that was set too high.... On my particular unit there was NO WAY to turn that screw without some sort of 90 degree screwdriver.

Assuming you refer to the same comment in your e-mail, you mean the brew pressure. Since your espresso machine is a rotary and it's plumbed-in, the pump's input pressure affects its output pressure. Expobar/WholeLatteLove can't accurately set the brew pressure for you unless they dictate a precise inlet pressure. The difficulty you reported adjusting the pump bypass valve prompted me to ask Ian to photograph it (below). He said it was tight quarters, but was able to adjust the pump in situ.

by **Michal** on Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:53 am

Yes, brew pressure, sorry. I could get the nut loosened but no screwdriver could possibly make it there in a straight line, maybe the new mounts are a bit different, I'm not sure. I don't blame Expobar/WLL at all for the brew pressure being high, everyone has a different situation. Good thing I don't have to adjust it very often

.

by **shadowfax** on Wed Feb 04, 2009 10:35 am

Michal, 2 things: with such rotary pumps, there is no need for a screwdriver. Yes, the adjustment screw has a slotted head to accept one, but it also has a hex cut in the top of it, so it can also be adjusted with a wrench. But, if you can get your hand in there, you can also actually adjust those with relative ease with an index finger and thumb; once you loosen the tightening nut, the adjustment screw is quite easy to move.

I am a bit perplexed as to why such a basic end-user adjustment was tucked away so much, but there's definitely no need to take the pump off the mounts to adjust it. Of course, you had to unmount the pump anyway, so....

by **woodchuck** on Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:58 pm

Michal, I just used a really long shafted screw driver and had no problem getting to the adjustment once I loosened the lock nut. That said, it is awkward.

Cheers

Ian

by **networkcrasher** on Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:19 pm

woodchuck wrote:There is a lot going on in this small package:

What's up with that junction of wires/copper/electrical tape above the cap on the motor? Is that just a pressurestat that looks like the steam tap is coming out from it, or does the steam tap actually connect into that device?

by HB on Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:29 pm

I'm going to guess that it is a protective wrap over the wires leading to the pressurestat.

by **EricL** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:40 am

Is it common to put the pressurestat on the steaming line? Seems like it might be a clever way to insure the heating element comes on quickly while steaming. When you open the wand, the pressure drop would be detected almost immediately.

by **networkcrasher** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:44 am

That's exactly what I was thinking, but I'd bet that it's just an optical illusion of how the plumbing is ran. I'm assuming the steam tap connects to the top of the boiler, and not the pressurestat.

Then again, the reason I asked is I could be wrong!

by **uscfroadie** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:14 am

That pressurestat looks exactly like to one on my Gaggia Factory, minus the white glue to keep from tampering/adjusting.

by **woodchuck** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:16 am

Sorry about not going through the layout last time. I was more interested in getting the pressure down and seeing what that did to the coffee. I'll put together a better picture of where things are connected next time I get the covers off.

Cheers

Ian

by **LordFoo** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:19 am

networkcrasher wrote:That's exactly what I was thinking, but I'd bet that it's just an optical illusion of how the plumbing is ran. I'm assuming the steam tap connects to the top of the boiler, and not the pressurestat.

Then again, the reason I asked is I could be wrong!

To me, it looks like the steam valve is attached to the T with the vacuum breaker on it -- I don't know of any pressurestats that go "inline" or have a passthrough for the piping. Also, since the p-stat is so close to the vacuum breaker, that black stuff is definitely there to prevent shorting from spray on startup.

by **networkcrasher** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:55 am

LordFoo wrote:To me, it looks like the steam valve is attached to the T with the vacuum breaker on it -- I don't know of any pressurestats that go "inline" or have a passthrough for the piping. Also, since the p-stat is so close to the vacuum breaker, that black stuff is definitely there to prevent shorting from spray on startup.

I didn't know of any inline pressurestats either, but there's always somebody inventing something new, so I figured I'd toss it out there.

As far as the located of the breaker/stat, wouldn't it seem smart to dispense with the black tape and put the stat elsewhere? I wonder why it's located where it is since getting spattered with water from the breaker is a real risk.

by **EricL** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:45 am

The more I look at it I think the steaming line connects to the fitting in the center of the boiler, behind the pstat.

by **networkcrasher** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:04 pm

That's what I'm thinking too. I'm thinking Ian will post some 3/4 pictures sometime which will put it to an end. I can't imagine that steam pipe connecting anywhere else.

by **cafeIKE** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 2:37 pm

EricL wrote:Is it common to put the pressurestat on the steaming line? Seems like it might be a clever way to insure the heating element comes on quickly while steaming. When you open the wand, the pressure drop would be detected almost immediately.

It aint gonna make any difference where the pStat is. The thermal inertia of the element is many orders of magnitude longer than the pressure drop time slope.

COVER THAT VAC BREAK with a cap.

The way the vacuum breaker is positioned with the wires leading to the over-temp breaker ensures that spray from the vacuum breaker will corrode the connectors.
[rant on]
Haven't espresso machine makers ever heard of a drip loop :?:

[/rant off]

I like to put a shroud over the vac break to prevent the spray from hitting connectors. A short copper pipe union and end cap of the correct diameters set over the valve does the trick. Ditto the over pressure release if you're particular.

+

images not to scale

by **woodchuck** on Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:30 pm

I will get more pics when I get it open again. Yes the vacuum breaker could use a bit more protection. I noticed this the last time I pulled off the back cover.

Cheers

Ian

by **gscace** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:25 am

EricL wrote:Is it common to put the pressurestat on the steaming line? Seems like it might be a clever way to insure the heating element comes on quickly while steaming. When you open the wand, the pressure drop would be detected almost immediately.

Cheaper than sticking the port onto the boiler and more flexible in positioning?

-Greg

by **EricL** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:14 pm

I guess the prudent thing is to reserve judgement till they finish the review. But while Expobar delivers good bang for buck, it does seems like they could have made some better decisions in the layout and accessibility. But then consumer products in general aren't designed for easy user maintenance. The well laid out ones spoil you for the rest.

by HB on Fri Feb 06, 2009 12:40 pm

cafeIKE wrote:COVER THAT VAC BREAK with a cap.

It's not a bad idea, and I've seen a catch cup underneath the vacuum breaker (e.g., Quickmill), but cannot think of an espresso machine with a cover over it.

by **denniskeating** on Fri Feb 06, 2009 1:08 pm

Nice idea, Ian! And easily done - also on the brewtus, there is an inner "top, or roof" s/s plate that is about an inch above the vacuum breaker. I suppose the water can spray, hit that plate and drip from that onto an electrical connection.
The pressurestat tube is the one that is mounted on the fitting just below the vacuum breaker - it is U shaped. - Dennis


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