by another_jim on Mon Mar 23, 2009 10:07 pm
The twin Elektra Test or Can it Beat the Compak WBC?
Today, Dan Roscigno, "ddr," visited with his newly tweaked Vario, and we tested it against the Mazzer Mini and the Compak WBC. This is the write up of the test. As usual, these results are preliminary, one of many tests HB does when reviewing equipment.
The format of the test is as follows. We did comparison shots of the Sidamo Bonko, a light roasted fruit and flower coffee, at a lowish 14.5 gram dose, and of Black Cat, a medium roasted cocktail of Bourbon flavors, almond, chocolate, and cherry, at a highish 16.5 gram dose. We ground and filled identical baskets, with ID marks hidden below the rim, shuffled them, and pulled side by side shots on the twin Elektra Semis. We tasted twelve pairs of shots, then discussed our impressions and rated the shots, prior to IDing the baskets.
Our plan was to do 4 pairs against the Compak, with 2 pairs of each coffee, and 8 pairs with the Mini, with 4 pairs for each coffee.
But the Vario spanked the Mini three times in a row on the Black Cat, and edged it three times in a row on the Bonko. The Vario tasted silky and buttery, while the Mini tasted angular and edgy. On one Bonko shot, we thought the edgy flavor on the Mini was slightly better, but the mouthfeel edge of the Vario was too much. That was on the final shot, and we knew by then which grinder was which.
So we promoted the Vario to the Titan league, and did six shots against the Compak. Here we had two slight slight wins by the Compak, two by the Vario and two ties. We never could tell which grinder was which. On this day, the Vario played in the Titan league and won.
The result is rather better than any of the other Vario users have had. I do not know if that is due to production variations, or whether Kyle's Anderson's specific instructions on the tweak got this grinder to the stellar level Baratza had hoped it would attain.
The tweak puts the espresso level from the finest setting of the coarse slider, and roughly the 10th setting of the fine slider, to the 2nd finest setting of the coarse slider and again about the 10th setting of the fine setting slider. In all, you get 20 clicks of the fine slider to traverse the espresso range. It may be that this is the sweet spot for these grinders.
If this result holds up for all the test grinders, and the grinder is reliable, the Vario is the espresso bargain of the year.