Ulka Pumps Weakens/Hums

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
thecoffeefield
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#1: Post by thecoffeefield »

The Ulka pump on my Musica seems to hum/weakens/buzzes more than vibrate when the heating element is on. I noticed that the heating element turning on may not necessarily cause the pump to weaken/hum but most of the times when the pump did this it was after or as soon as the heating element turned on and it was after the machine has been on for hours. It is important to note though that the boiler pressure doesn't decrease but the flow of the coffee out of the basket decreases (I get anywhere between 22gm to 28gm instead of my usual 36gm or so.

I've read different forum topics here and elsewhere about pumps' erratic behavior when pressure increases and decreases or the flow completing stopping when the humming noise happens but that's not my case.

Also, I took the machine yesterday to a certified Nuova Simonelli repair center and explained the problem but just with cars, they couldn't duplicate the issue and the pump and the machine worked fine. Since I bought it used, I asked them to check it if it needs descaling or any of the vales need cleaning and they said that the machine is in excellent and they even refused to charge me money since there was nothing to clean or descale!!

having said all of that, can it be my electricity at home? I remember when I had the Silvia and after installing the Auber PID, the pump was vibrating and then it would hum every time the heating element kicked in, it was like a siren pattern (vibe noise, humming noise, vibe noise, humming noise, etc.). when I contacted Auber, they said that this could be a result of an unstable power line. If that's the reason, how can I fix this?

Thanks

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yakster
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#2: Post by yakster »

Verify this by plugging in your Musica to a Kill-a-Watt and see what the voltage drops down to when this happens.

A dedicated circuit could resolve this issue as long as you don't have an issue at your main breaker panel.
-Chris

LMWDP # 272

thecoffeefield (original poster)
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#3: Post by thecoffeefield (original poster) replying to yakster »

Is there a way to know if I have a problem with the main breaker panel other than calling an electrician?

Thanks

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yakster
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#4: Post by yakster »

Start by verifying you have a problem at the machine first with a Kill-a-Watt. It's a quick, safe, and easy test.

What's your comfort level and experience working with live circuit voltages? Have you identified what other devices are on the same circuit with your machine?
-Chris

LMWDP # 272

ira
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#5: Post by ira »

If the pump is running slow because the heater is drawing down the voltage by enough to effect a pump in good condition, something is very wrong somewhere. Like has been said before, the first thing is to measure the voltage going into the machine. A Kill-a-Watt is the easiest solution, a voltmeter would work as well but requires some understanding and possibly removing the covers of the machine. Answer that question and it will become a lot easier to suggest what to look at next.

Ira

thecoffeefield (original poster)
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#6: Post by thecoffeefield (original poster) »

yakster wrote:Start by verifying you have a problem at the machine first with a Kill-a-Watt. It's a quick, safe, and easy test.

What's your comfort level and experience working with live circuit voltages? Have you identified what other devices are on the same circuit with your machine?
I'm not at all comfortable and will try the Kill a Watt test to see if the line is the issue then I will call an electrician. What should I be looking for with the Kill A Watt? If the machine is 110V how much difference should I tolerate before I blame the line for this?

Thanks

thecoffeefield (original poster)
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#7: Post by thecoffeefield (original poster) »

ira wrote:If the pump is running slow because the heater is drawing down the voltage by enough to effect a pump in good condition, something is very wrong somewhere. Like has been said before, the first thing is to measure the voltage going into the machine. A Kill-a-Watt is the easiest solution, a voltmeter would work as well but requires some understanding and possibly removing the covers of the machine. Answer that question and it will become a lot easier to suggest what to look at next.

Ira
I will order a Kill A Watt and do the test in the next couple of days but I don't trust the service center diagnosis that the pump is fine simply because they didn't take it apart. They based their conclusion on the fact that the issue did not happen at their place despite hours of pulling shot and the fact that the pump pressure is fine! I have a feeling that the pump is sensitive to heat. the pump doesn't make that humming noise when the heating element is on until 2 hours or so have passed with the machine on.

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another_jim
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#8: Post by another_jim »

thecoffeefield wrote: ... the pump doesn't make that humming noise when the heating element is on until 2 hours or so have passed with the machine on.
It sounds more like heat than a voltage drop/wiring problem. Heat does shorten the life of Ulka pumps when they are mounted in a hot spot or suck in very hot water because the tank gets hot (My Elektra Semiautomaticas' pumps required much more frequent pump replacements due to their hot location).

The good news is that Ulka pumps can wheeze and hum and still get up to full pressure. The bad news is that it probably is on its way to failure. The other good news is, if you have even the most basic home repair skills, Ulkas are easy to replace, and the replacement pump costs around $50.
Jim Schulman

Headala
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#9: Post by Headala replying to another_jim »

Jim is an expert, and these are excellent points. I might also add that in my limited experience Ulka pumps on the road to failure often still have many miles left to get there.

thecoffeefield (original poster)
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#10: Post by thecoffeefield (original poster) »

another_jim wrote:The good news is that Ulka pumps can wheeze and hum and still get up to full pressure. The bad news is that it probably is on its way to failure. The other good news is, if you have even the most basic home repair skills, Ulkas are easy to replace, and the replacement pump costs around $50.
In my case when it hums the flow of the coffee decreases, although the boiler pressure stays consistent!

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