1957 Faema Urania (2 group) restoration - Page 12
- dominico
- Team HB
- Posts: 2007
- Joined: 9 years ago
I'll take that as a yes. At any rate it looks fantastic. I have the same groups on my president but they haven't been redone at all other than routine maintenance in the last 54 years. The difference aesthetically is night an day. I'm jealous!
https://bit.ly/3N1bhPR
Il caffè è un piacere, se non è buono che piacere è?
Il caffè è un piacere, se non è buono che piacere è?
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- Posts: 75
- Joined: 8 years ago
Thanks for all the input. I'll start searching across the German border and if that doesn't help a weekend trip to Saint Chamas sounds like a good thing to do anyway.
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- Posts: 63
- Joined: 18 years ago
Congratulations on your progress. I just finished a less extensive refurbish of a Urania. Keep at it!
Brooklynshot
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- Posts: 75
- Joined: 8 years ago
Good news first, the boiler and boiler gasket are not leaking so far (tested without pressure only).
When I ordered the vacuum breaker and safety valve, I invested an additional 10 Euros in all the blind caps needed to seal the boiler for a pressure test.
Testing the heating element, I found something weird:
The element is supposed to deliver 2600Watts at 230V (which is also stamped on the base plate of the element). I opted for this version as it is well below the 16Amps limit recommended for home installations and fuses.
However, my Amp-meter shows the element is drawing 4500 Watts and more than 20Amps.
My immediate reaction was to rewire the heating from parallel to a series circuit, but that results in 1300W (5Amps) which is way below what is needed.
I'm a bit puzzled. Did I get something wrong or did the shop sell me a heater that is drawing 50% above its spec?
Below picture shows the paralel wiring (first pic above is the series circuit I tried afterwards).
When I ordered the vacuum breaker and safety valve, I invested an additional 10 Euros in all the blind caps needed to seal the boiler for a pressure test.
Testing the heating element, I found something weird:
The element is supposed to deliver 2600Watts at 230V (which is also stamped on the base plate of the element). I opted for this version as it is well below the 16Amps limit recommended for home installations and fuses.
However, my Amp-meter shows the element is drawing 4500 Watts and more than 20Amps.
My immediate reaction was to rewire the heating from parallel to a series circuit, but that results in 1300W (5Amps) which is way below what is needed.
I'm a bit puzzled. Did I get something wrong or did the shop sell me a heater that is drawing 50% above its spec?
Below picture shows the paralel wiring (first pic above is the series circuit I tried afterwards).
- dmccallum
- Posts: 136
- Joined: 11 years ago
An element of that spec 230V/2600W should have resistance of 18.3 Ohm across both element circuits (in parallel).However, my Amp-meter shows the element is drawing 4500 Watts and more than 20Amps.
My immediate reaction was to rewire the heating from parallel to a series circuit, but that results in 1300W (5Amps) which is way below what is needed.
What are you measuring?
I've never tried to measure the amps. Simply knowing the voltage in and resistance should tell you the current you're drawing.
I have noticed variations in other elements in the past with the most extreme case being a Ascaso Faema type 230V/2400W rated element actually delivering close to 2800W.
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- Team HB
- Posts: 5535
- Joined: 16 years ago
You can just use one of the two elements which will then give you 2200 watts which should be fine for home use, just takes a bit longer to warm up. I only use 2 of the 3 elements on mine so I don't exceed the house wiring.
Ira
Ira
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- Posts: 75
- Joined: 8 years ago
- Paul_Pratt
- Posts: 1467
- Joined: 19 years ago
Yes probably not the shop's fault but the manufacturer has used the wrong element, it is all too common I'm afraid.I'm a bit puzzled. Did I get something wrong or did the shop sell me a heater that is drawing 50% above its spec?