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Contents |
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Introduction |
This section will cover the basic methods used for making espresso with this espresso machine. I experimented with two different methodologies for managing brew temperature, which I refer to as the "pro" and "water dance" methods; both are documented in this section. If you are a beginning barista, I would strongly suggest you first read Espresso Machines 101 and Jim Schulman's excellent Home Barista's Guide to Espresso.
The key to being a good barista is understanding the variables that come into play when making espresso. Begin by learning how the equipment works and what the effects of manipulating different variables are and can be. Then, you need to reduce all the variables but one to as near constant as possible. The one variable you then use to "tune" the resulting shots is the fineness of your grind.
For this test, shot pulling was always done
with the following sequence of actions and techniques:
OK, as I'm sure most of you know, it's just not that easy. So let's add a little more detail to the techniques above.
The key is consistency. Everything the exact same way each and every time. Grind and dose the exact same amount, distribute in the exact same way and manner, tamp with the exact same pressure—each and every time. To do this, you need to practice and pay attention.
Verify the portafilter basket is dry, as water will follow the path of least resistance. If some of the coffee grounds in the basket are wet, the water extracting your coffee will pass more quickly though it than the drier surrounding area. Consequently the wet coffee will be overextracted while the remaining coffee remains underextracted, producing a classic unevenly extracted shot.
When dosing coffee, the keys are to grind immediately before you dose and to be consistent with your dose. In addition, as noted in Pulling Shots by the Numbers, consider experimenting with the amount of coffee you dose. I've found that each coffee has an ideal dose for a desired flavor profile. To be consistent with these varying doses, I prefer to rap the portafilter on the grinder fork zero to three times depending on the desired dose. With a La Marzocco ridged double basket, I find that this allows me to dose from 17 to 20.5 grams.
Distribute the coffee evenly throughout the basket. This is not only the least appreciated concept in espresso-making, it may well be the most important factor in getting a good cup. The idea is to create an even density of coffee grounds throughout the entire basket. You're not just leveling the surface, you are literally distributing the coffee in the basket. There are various methods for achieving this goal. The two used in this test were the Schomer method (often described as the "NSEW" method) and the Stockfleths move (video in WMV format by Tim Wendelboe and sometimes described as the "rotational" method). In both cases, you use your finger to drag the pile of grounds around the basket while providing downwards pressure. One of the greatest training innovations of the last decade has been the so-called naked portafilter. This product will quickly allow you to identify flaws in technique. These errors create soft spots in the distribution and the subsequent uneven extraction and channeling.
The goal of tamping is to preserve that even-density bed of coffee that you have just created. If done correctly, the coffee puck will provide sufficient resistance to the pressurized water to extract the liquid we call espresso. There are a couple of keys to getting a good tamp. First, work on a counter of the correct height. It's surprising how often this important detail is overlooked. The counter needs to be low enough so that you can get sufficient leverage and high enough so that you have stability when tamping. Second, have the correct grip on the tamper. Hold it as you would a doorknob. Use your thumb and index finger to provide the downward pressure (not the palm of your hand). Third, have the correct arm orientation. Your forearm should be vertical and your shoulder should provide the downward force through that rigid and vertical forearm. Fourth, tamp with at least 30 pounds of pressure on your second tamp if you want to be consistent. Fifth, if you choose to rap the portafilter with the tamper, do so with as little force as is possible, and only do so once. Doing otherwise is likely to create gaps between the coffee and the wall of the basket, which will result in channeling. Finally, never rotate your tamper under pressure. Doing so will "tear" the surface of the coffee, creating weak spots that will result in uneven extraction.
There are other methods and techniques people use. Many of these have been shown to be effective. The methods described below are merely what were used by the various baristas in this review. With that caveat, let's go through the two different methods of brew temperature management that were used.
I should warn you that the first method described (the 'pro' based method that I utilized myself) is not really applicable to the average home barista. First of all, it assumes that you're not overly concerned about wasting coffee. In the course of this review, I burned through almost $400 worth of coffee. Obviously, if I were paying for this coffee I would have done things quite differently. Perhaps more importantly, I was swapping coffees all the time and as a result having to switch brew temperatures. If you use a limited number of coffees, the whole methodology might well be overkill. Second, it assumes that you have ample time to tune the grind and brew temperature for an ideal espresso. The methodology I used allowed me to be very efficient once I had the grind and flush both dialed in, but it took me up to three or four shots with some new coffees just to get the flush right. Finally, it assumes that you can correctly identify by taste not only a too-hot and too-cold brew temp, but also be accurate about how far off the shot temperature actually is. It took me about a year of work and thousands of shots to get to the point where I could identify brew temperature by taste. Of the various other baristas who pulled shots using the Mia, only two were able to quickly learn and apply this technique, and both of them were world-class pro baristas. As a result, I will describe this method, but I would have to suggest that the more standard "water dance" method described second section is going to be a better option for most people.
With this method, the idea is to "tune" your cooling flush based on taste. To provide a certain degree of consistency and reduce the number of garbage shots pulled, I found it helpful to start off a session by running enough water out of the hot water spout to cause the boiler to refill. I'd then wait until the heat element light went off and begin a session at this "baseline." I found starting the boiler at the same point gave me better repeatability session-to-session and day-to-day. More importantly, as I was switching between coffees, this reduced the randomness while adjusting for a different brew temperature.
Once at that "baseline" the steps are:
The above is dependent upon a couple of variables. For example, it assumes a high degree of efficiency in building shots and assumes no idle time between shots. One other barista who used this method discovered that they had to do an initial long two count flush after removing the portafilter to see accuracy in their brew temperature as a result of less efficiency in building the shot. When making cappuccinos, I found that I had to decrease my flush times as a result of steaming the milk first. In addition, the range in that count is obviously significant. As noted above, I'm pretty good at identifying brew temperature by taste. When I started at this artificial "baseline," I found that I was able to get to the desired brew temperature with no more than one failed shot. I would taste that first shot (usually pulled with a long five count) and then adjust up or down based on the results. Once you nail the count, you've nailed the temperature and as long as you are consistent with your shot building you can bang out shot after shot after shot at consistent brew temperatures. Of course, this is probably not the goal for many reader, so on to the more practical method.
This is the emerging standard method for temperature surfing home machines and is described incredibly clearly in How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love HXs. In addition, this was the method used by more than half the baristas who participated in this test and the only method that proved successful with people who are not professional baristas. In general, I would strongly suggest using this method as a starting point.
The method used in this test follows:
OK, that all being said, here are some key tips and tricks for making this work because it is, again, not as easy as it seems. The purpose of the initial flush is to get the water down to around 206°F (where it seems to stop sputtering with the Mia). For my counting and my shot building sequence, each number corresponds (roughly) to one degree Fahrenheit. Thus, if you are working with Victrola Streamline you would use a long three count in your flush. But there's another unspoken variable—that you build your shots in the same time that I do (a touch under 20 seconds) and that you count as fast or slow as I do (grin). Not to worry. The reality is that it's all going to become very clear. You will take as long as you take to build your shot and once you get it down, the duration will be the same each and every time. You'll count at the speed you'll count. So there will be consistency. If you know what the target brew temperature is, and you follow these instructions and the coffee tastes burnt - then either you build your shots more slowly than I do or you count faster. So adjust your count longer. It really isn't rocket science. If you understand the concepts (again, read How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love HXs) then it will all start to come into focus quite quickly.
Finally, I have two key tricks/hints for you. First, whenever you buy coffee, ask what the target brew temperature is for espresso with that coffee. This is going to save you a lot of heartache. Second, trust your taste. If it tastes good to you, it's good.
A lot of people helped me put this together. And I couldn't believe how much coffee and equipment was used for this writeup. If I were allowed to have more fun, it would have been illegal.
Special thanks go out to Bronwen Serna, Kyle Larson, Tonx, Stephen Vick and all the other tasters and testers. Thanks to Duane Sorenson for sharing thoughts and insight. Thanks to Joel, Jodi, Trey, Mason, Matt, John, Jen, Chris, Andrew and Terry for the coffees. Thanks to all the Home-Barista.com folks who provided guidance, feedback and questions along the way. Big huge thanks to Dan and Terry for setting this up and making it possible. And most of all, special thanks to the wonderful Valerie Hoecke for providing assistance and support and tolerance in all possible ways.
Home-Barista.com would like to gratefully acknowledge the generous support of the following cafés, coffee roasters, and equipment providers. Without their help, this review would not have been possible.
| Equipment | Coffee |
|---|---|
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Espresso
Parts NW Stumptown
Coffee Roasters 1st-line
equipment Malachi's
Espresso World |
Stumptown
Coffee Roasters Intelligentsia
Coffee Roasters Hines Coffee Victrola
Coffee Ecco Caffe Olympia Coffee Roasters |
La Marzocco Linea EE 3 group - semi-automatic, dual boiler commercial machine. Generally considered the standard for high-quality commercial machines. The Linea is a plumbed-in 200 plus pound machine with an external Procon rotary pump. The brew boiler has a volume of five liters and 1900W heating element. The steam boiler has a volume of 12.5 liter and 4000W heating element
Modified La Marzocco Linea EE 2 group - another semi-automatic, dual boiler commercial machine, but in this case modified by David Schomer of Espresso Vivace in order to deliver greater temperature stability and consistency. This is the smaller version of the 3 group machine above, with a 3.4 liter brew boiler and a 8 liter steam boiler (1400W and 3000W heating elements, respectively).
Mistral - a custom made, semi-automatic dual boiler commercial machine made by Kees van der Westen. The Mistral is loosely based on the Linea in that it uses many of the raw components of the Linea as starting points and builds a machine that looks like a sculpture. There are, however, differences beneath the skin that are often dramatic. These include pre-infusion and some significantly altered plumbing.
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La Marzoco Linea |
Mistral |
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