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Contents |
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Introduction |
This section will cover the basic methods used for making espresso with this espresso machine. If you are a beginning barista, I would strongly suggest you first read Espresso Machines 101 and Jim Schulman's excellent Home Barista's Guide to Espresso.
The key to being a good barista is understanding the variables that come into play when making espresso. Begin by learning how the equipment works and what the effects of manipulating different variables are and can be. Then, you need to reduce all the variables but one to as near constant as possible. The one variable you then use to "tune" the resulting shots is the fineness of your grind.
For this test, shot pulling was always done
with the following sequence of actions and techniques:
OK, as I'm sure most of you know, it's just not that easy. So let's add a little more detail to the techniques above.
The key is consistency. Everything the exact same way each and every time. Grind and dose the exact same amount, distribute in the exact same way and manner, tamp with the exact same pressure—each and every time. To do this, you need to practice and pay attention.
Verify the portafilter basket is dry, as water will follow the path of least resistance. If some of the coffee grounds in the basket are wet, the water extracting your coffee will pass more quickly though it than the drier surrounding area. Consequently the wet coffee will be overextracted while the remaining coffee remains underextracted, producing a classic unevenly extracted shot.
When dosing coffee, the keys are to grind immediately before you dose and to be consistent with your dose. In addition, as noted in Pulling Shots by the Numbers, consider experimenting with the amount of coffee you dose. I've found that each coffee has an ideal dose for a desired flavor profile. To be consistent with these varying doses, I prefer to rap the portafilter on the grinder fork zero to three times depending on the desired dose. With a La Marzocco ridged double basket, I find that this allows me to dose from 17 to 20.5 grams.
Distribute the coffee evenly throughout the basket. This is not only the least appreciated concept in espresso-making, it may well be the most important factor in getting a good cup. The idea is to create an even density of coffee grounds throughout the entire basket. You're not just leveling the surface, you are literally distributing the coffee in the basket. There are various methods for achieving this goal. The two used in this test were the Schomer method (often described as the "NSEW" method) and the Stockfleths move (video in WMV format by Tim Wendelboe and sometimes described as the "rotational" method). In both cases, you use your finger to drag the pile of grounds around the basket while providing downwards pressure. One of the greatest training innovations of the last decade has been the so-called naked portafilter. This product will quickly allow you to identify flaws in technique. These errors create soft spots in the distribution and the subsequent uneven extraction and channeling.
The goal of tamping is to preserve that even-density bed of coffee that you have just created. If done correctly, the coffee puck will provide sufficient resistance to the pressurized water to extract the liquid we call espresso. There are a couple of keys to getting a good tamp. First, work on a counter of the correct height. It's surprising how often this important detail is overlooked. The counter needs to be low enough so that you can get sufficient leverage and high enough so that you have stability when tamping. Second, have the correct grip on the tamper. Hold it as you would a doorknob. Use your thumb and index finger to provide the downward pressure (not the palm of your hand). Third, have the correct arm orientation. Your forearm should be vertical and your shoulder should provide the downward force through that rigid and vertical forearm. Fourth, tamp with at least 30 pounds of pressure on your second tamp if you want to be consistent. Fifth, if you choose to rap the portafilter with the tamper, do so with as little force as is possible, and only do so once. Doing otherwise is likely to create gaps between the coffee and the wall of the basket, which will result in channeling. Finally, never rotate your tamper under pressure. Doing so will "tear" the surface of the coffee, creating weak spots that will result in uneven extraction.
There are various methods and techniques people use to manage brew temp on HX machines. Many of these have been shown to be effective. The method described below is merely what was used by the various baristas in this review. With that caveat, let's go through the basic method of brew temperature management that was used.
This method is simply a slight modification to the classic "Water Dance" method of temp management. With the traditional method, you flush the group and then build your shot and then extract. In this model, I build the shot, and then flush and immediately extract. With the Bricoletta I found that this resulted in better consistency and a brew temperature profile that more closely mimiced the profile of a La Marzocco. Now... for this to be effective, you need to be very smooth and efficient and quick in your shot building technique. In general, I take between 20 and 25 seconds from when I remove the portafilter to when I begin my cooling flush. If you're taking much longer than this, you're going to see significant temperature loss in your portafilter and resulting compromised results.
The "water dance" is the emerging standard method for temperature surfing home machines and is described incredibly clearly in How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love HXs.
The method used in this test follows:
OK, that all being said, here are some key tips and tricks for making this work because it is, again, not as easy as it seems. The purpose of the initial flush is to get the water down to around 206°F (where it seems to stop sputtering with an E61 based machine). For my counting and my shot building sequence, each number corresponds (roughly) to one degree Fahrenheit. Thus, if you are working with Victrola Streamline, you would use a short three count in your flush (to drop you to 203.5°F). Now... of course, you're probably going to count slower or faster than I do. Not to worry. The reality is that it's all going to become very clear. You'll count at the speed you'll count. You just have to be consistent in this speed. If you know what the target brew temperature is, and you follow these instructions and the coffee tastes burnt - then you probably count faster than I do. So adjust your count longer. If it tastes sour, you count slower than I do so you'll have to adjust your count shorter. It really isn't rocket science. If you understand the concepts (again, read How I Stopped Worrying and Learned to Love HXs) then it will all start to come into focus quite quickly.
Finally, I have two key tricks/hints for you. First, whenever you buy coffee, ask what the target brew temperature is for espresso with that coffee. This is going to save you a lot of heartache. Second, trust your taste. If it tastes good to you, it's good.
A lot of people helped me put this together. And I couldn't believe how much coffee and equipment was used for this writeup. If I were allowed to have more fun, it would have been illegal.
If you want to read more about the process of reviewing the Bricoletta, check out the Bricoletta thread in the Bench area in the forums.
Special thanks go out to Bronwen Serna, Kyle Larson, Duane Sorenson, Stephen Vick and all the other tasters and testers. Thanks to Duane also for sharing thoughts and insight. Thanks to Joel, Jodi, Trey, Mason, Matt, Doug, David, John, Terry, Tracy, Peter, Cindy, Andy, Andrew and Terry for the coffees. Thanks to all the 1st-line folks who provided guidance, feedback and answers to my questions along the way. Thanks to Terry and Brian at Espresso Parts for the help with the plumbing. Big huge thanks to Dan and Jim for setting this up and making it possible. And most of all, special thanks to the wonderful Valerie Hoecke for providing assistance and support and tolerance in all possible ways.
Home-Barista.com would like to gratefully acknowledge the generous support of the following cafés, coffee roasters, and equipment providers. Without their help, this review would not have been possible.
| Equipment | Coffee |
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1st-Line Equipment Stumptown Coffee Roasters Espresso Parts NW Other test equipment |
Stumptown
Coffee Roasters Intelligentsia
Coffee & Tea Ecco Caffe Olympia Coffee Roasters Zoka Coffee Roasters and Tea Company Counter Culture Coffee Barefoot Coffee Doma Coffee Espresso Vivace Hines Public Market Coffee Terroir Coffee Company |
La Marzocco Linea EE 3 group - semi-automatic, dual boiler commercial machine. Generally considered the standard for high-quality commercial machines. The Linea is a plumbed-in 200 plus pound machine with an external Procon rotary pump. The brew boiler has a volume of five liters and 1900W heating element. The steam boiler has a volume of 12.5 liter and 4000W heating element
Modified La Marzocco Linea EE 2 group - another semi-automatic, dual boiler commercial machine, but in this case modified by David Schomer of Espresso Vivace in order to deliver greater temperature stability and consistency. This is the smaller version of the 3 group machine above, with a 3.4 liter brew boiler and a 8 liter steam boiler (1400W and 3000W heating elements, respectively).
Mistral - a custom made, semi-automatic dual boiler commercial machine made by Kees van der Westen. The Mistral is loosely based on the Linea in that it uses many of the raw components of the Linea as starting points and builds a machine that looks like a sculpture. There are, however, differences beneath the skin that are often dramatic. These include pre-infusion and some significantly altered plumbing.
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La Marzoco Linea |
Mistral |
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