Hi all! Especially electrical engineers out there...

I recently got a new Nuova Simoneli Appia II Compact, rated at 2800 W (230 V).

Then I was advised by the tech guy to pair it up with a voltage regulator. Will I be ok with:

3000 W?
5000 W?
6000 W?

Does the rated capacity of the AVR need to be "2 times" that of the device? Hoping that the 5000 W is already OK with my machine.

Really being price-conscious on this.... hope you can help me decide!

Okay, I'm going on a limb here, but this Gicar module can run on 230v +/- 15%, and your element runs on whatever voltage you put in as long as it doesn't overheat.
Are you realistically going to experience voltage swings of +/-15%?

If your machine has no sensitive electronics you will not need a regulator at all, I'd check with the manufacturer before investing in stuff you may not need at all.

http://www.nuovadistribution.com/images ... 0Sheet.pdf does not show any specs as far as supply voltage goes, but then again...I have no idea how bad your power supply might be at times.

If you're comfortable with the idea, I'd split wire the machine and get a small regulator for the electronics and run the elements directly. There is no reason to regulate the elements unless you expect long periods of voltage over 275. And I'm not even sure that would be a problem for the elements.

Ira

I agree with Ira. The heaters are simple resistive elements and do not require regulation. If you want to split that off from the other electronics they can be powered with a much smaller regulator.

And of course this is only necessary if you are expecting really bad line voltage issues.

Hi,

It's been years since I've done any electrical design work, but for what it's worth here's my suggestion. As we lived and worked in Asia and travelled to the Philippines many times, I fully understand the concern. Your voltage can vary quite a bit over there, both higher and lower. Over here, we simply do not need an AVR, as our power is generally constant. A few people have surge suppression devices (either portable or in their main electrical panel) to guard against 'spikes' in the voltage, but that's about it. If I lived in the Philippines I'd consider an AVR on any piece of expensive electrical equipment. Probably I'd run without one at first and see how it goes, as well-designed espresso machines are tolerant over a fairly broad range. Warranty would be an important part of the decision.

If you decide to get one, as for capacity of the device, here's the deal... If the device has significant inductive loads (like big motors and transformers) then the rule of thumb is to multiply the capacity by 1.75 to 2.00 to handle the starting load. But, your machine does not have these. As has been pointed out, it is principally a resistive device. Resistive devices are generally sized about ten to twenty percent above the stated load, depending on use. Continuous duty devices get a bigger one and devices only used for brief periods can get by with smaller ones. So, a 3000 Watt AVR would be a bare minimum and a 6000 Watt AVR would be overkill. You also want to be sure that the AVR device has surge suppression, but they mostly do.

PS, with all due respect to the other commenters, please do not tear into the machine and make modifications. It will void any warranty.

After all, the machine is currently plugged in my house, a residential 220V 15A outlet...

And in the figure in the manual, the plug is shown being plugged into a wall socket.\

This is also indicated there:

"The machine must always be protected by an automatic omnipolar switch of suitable power with contact openings of equal distance or more than 3mm."

Question: are brew switches and their programmed volumentric dispensation, electro-mechanical or electronic?

Think the point they make about having a switch is for another reason...long term fire and electrical shock safety.

The advice for an AVR likely came from a worry about stability of the line voltage, surges can damage sensitive electronics.