Help to identify La Pavoni Europiccola pre-millenium - Page 4

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potkan (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 9 years ago

#31: Post by potkan (original poster) »

Thank you for many valuable information.

I already ordered spare parts I need to make this machine work again, however I need to wait some time to progress further because some parts are out of their stock. So I will let you know.

potkan (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 9 years ago

#32: Post by potkan (original poster) »

Here are the parts I already cleaned.
I took everything apart, for something I used penetrating oil to unloose some nuts. Then I washed everything with soap and inside parts of group head and portafilter were cleaned with a paste made from vinegar, salt and flour. It looks pretty new now:

I did not cleaned few things, steam valve is missing, I am not cleaning boiler tube, I will just wash it, and also I will clean boiler and base as soon as I have spare parts ready for rebuild. Heating element is well aswell, so I just clean it last.

I also used a brass metal polish for the group head inside walls, so piston area is pretty smooth now.


Maybe somebody can suggest me how do I take out the front pressure gauge cover? Any good tips? I would like to clean glass from inside, however it holds pretty well after those years. I don't like to break it, so maybe I will just let it be because I don't have proper tools:



Cheers.

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rpavlis
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#33: Post by rpavlis »

I noticed that there was no "doubles" portafilter basket on the pictures. Most of us find the "singles" one unacceptable. Most of the first and second generation La Pavoni machine's portafilters can take the Micro Casa a Leva portafilter basket. They are deeper and MUCH less expensive. (I think more desirable.) As far as I know all portafilters with M10 threaded rods will take MCAL baskets. The M12 threaded rods came later, and some of them are apparently too short for MCAL baskets. Mine, however, fits perfectly. I can't tell from the picture which portafilter you have. It is possible to get "naked" or "bottomless" portafilters now. All first and second generation portafilters are interchangeable, even though there are several different ones made by La Pavoni. Third generation ones, however, are not.

Does not cleaned up and polished brass look outstanding!?

mrtwobits
Posts: 36
Joined: 9 years ago

#34: Post by mrtwobits »

Okay, now I'm curious about the anti-vacuum valve referred to in this thread.

I have a two-switch Europiccola that has an OTT 1995 sticker underneath the bottom plastic plate (underside of the chrome base). I assume this is the manufacturing date.

I don't usually remove the portafilter right after pulling a shot. It's usually a couple minutes later that I remove it and clean the grouphead.

I'm a little confused about whether this is causing grounds to be pulled back up into the shower screen and/or what my options are to help.

Thanks for any help and advice.

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homeburrero
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#35: Post by homeburrero »

mrtwobits wrote:I don't usually remove the portafilter right after pulling a shot. It's usually a couple minutes later that I remove it and clean the grouphead.

I'm a little confused about whether this is causing grounds to be pulled back up into the shower screen and/or what my options are to help.
No need to worry about waiting a few minutes before removing and cleaning. It takes a long time to cool down to where you have a vacuum in the boiler. Normally you do want to empty the PF and clean the group while there's still some pressure in the boiler. You want that pressure so that you can lift the lever and do a portafilter wiggle (lock/unlock motion) using the hot water flush to help rinse the shower screen and gasket.
Pat
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potkan (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 9 years ago

#36: Post by potkan (original poster) »

rpavlis wrote:I noticed that there was no "doubles" portafilter basket on the pictures.
You are right, one one I have is single basket, it was a first thing I checked when I disassembled the machine.
I've been already reading some forum threads, and a lot of people suggested that single basket is unacceptable.
So together with spare parts, I am ordering also double basket. But thanks for reminding me :).

Joeydiepe
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#37: Post by Joeydiepe »

I also used a brass metal polish for the group head inside walls, so piston area is pretty smooth now.
could you tell some more about the way you polished the inside of the group head? It looks really great! Which sort of polish, did you use any tools or just a cloth? And did you remove the brass sleeve?
Joël

potkan (original poster)
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#38: Post by potkan (original poster) »

Hi Joeydiepe,

I only followed the advice I got from guys here.
Anyway, I used a product called Silichrom EX, it's a paste used to polish metals, especially like brass. It's an old product since komunism era, we can get it in shops for ages, and it works realy great. I believe you can find something similar in car shops. Then I did not used any tools, maybe a brass brush to clean the piston very well before cleaning/polishing, but then only wool clothing and plastic gloves to protect my hands. Just polish until quality you feel ok with. Anyway this is only to make the surface nice a smooth to keep the piston gaskets life longer. Also regarding the brass sleeve - this model has no sleeve to remove, it's an old '80 model with group head fabricated from one quality piece of brass.


I guess you are more curious how I cleaned it so shiny - before I have cleaned it with the homemade paste of vinegar, salt and water (equal parts - but depends on vinegar strength, if it is too concentrated, use less). Just apply the paste and let it solute the tarnishes for few hours, even over night. You might find it blueish afterwards, but that is OK. Then I washed it (avoid aggressive soaps).



Anyway,
I was waiting 6weeks for La Pavoni to deliver me the spare parts. Package should finally come around next week, so I will be posting some update regarding the repair soon.
Cheers.

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drgary
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#39: Post by drgary »

Simichrome works well on brass. It is a mild abrasive. I just tried to remove some scouring marks from the chrome on an old machine, and some of the chrome wore through to the brass. So, use it sparingly on plating. BTW a mild acid left on brass so blue color starts to show is the beginning of degrading the metal. You want to minimize that. Robert Pavlis, a retired chemistry professor, has posted this cautionary explanation of the chemistry involved.
Gary
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potkan (original poster)
Posts: 16
Joined: 9 years ago

#40: Post by potkan (original poster) »

you are right about the paste. that's why I said use less vinegar in the paste if it is too concentrated, usually is around 5-8% solution. I used distiled 25%, so I used only 1/3 of normal amount. also I let it work only for necessary time, blueish parts were minimal, but it does happen. on the other hand you won't do this anymore once done properly. This is how it looked before:


now:


Anyway, I forgot to say I did no used it on plating.. neither the silichrome for polishing. It will remove lacquer coating. For that you can use some finish, but be sure it is acrylic based (water solutable). Or just wash it with soap.