La Marzocco GS3 MP grouphead leaking after o-ring rebuild?

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
CelliniEVO
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#1: Post by CelliniEVO »

Hey guys,

I had a previous thread from a few days ago about my scale buildup and was talking with Eric about my rebuild...thanks to everyone who chimed in! I got everything replaced, but when firing it up on the reservoir I had a tiny leak under the brass cap that disappeared when it heated up. Since I was playing with the machine, I decided it was a good time to finally plumb it in...I move it around regularly and I've been scared with my old 0-rings of flooding my wood floors. Well, that tiny leak when run on the reservoir is like a stream when plumbed in! I've owned the machine for two years and have been planning on plumbing it in forever and would love to finally make that a reality!

Has anyone had a similar issue when replacing the o-rings for the 1st time?


Thanks

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erics
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#2: Post by erics »

I don't know where you are in the US but I would think it is time to call for an LM tech to provide some onsite assistance.

Why not provide your exact location in your profile?
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

CelliniEVO (original poster)
Posts: 138
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#3: Post by CelliniEVO (original poster) »

I'm in Colorado. I wonder if I could just take it to one in Denver as I live about an hour away from there and don't want to pay for him to drive all the way up here. I do however despise calling repair guys.....I've learned how to take apart every thing I own (over the past 2 years I've dropped a new motor in my AC, installed a new gas valve on my stove, ignitor/sensor on my furnace, chopper on my dishwasher, etc....) I'd much prefer to figure out what I did wrong on the rebuild so I don't F it up the next time.

Thinking back on the rebuild, the thing I think could have happened was how far I push down the o-rings/washers when they are loaded on that purple shaft and then you remove them from the purple shaft.....it didn't seem like that top o-ring was flush with the surface and that didn't make sense to me.

Does anyone have links to another rebuild video or someone who lays it out with photos?


Thanks

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erics
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#4: Post by erics »

I certainly do not disagree with what you are saying HOWEVER, at this point, simply observing someone do this assembly may be beneficial in the long run.

I'd make a phone call to LM and get a list of maintenance shops in Denver. You may have to shop around to find one that is willing to let you observe as this is likely not a normal scenario. Set up a convenient time and its off to Denver :)

Out of curiosity, who did you buy the paddle group rebuild kits from and do you have any unopened ones? Perhaps take a pic and post same.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

CelliniEVO (original poster)
Posts: 138
Joined: 13 years ago

#5: Post by CelliniEVO (original poster) »

I got it from Chris Coffee over a year ago! I have been planning on doing it forever. Wish I would've taken a pic and dimensions as there has to be a way to acquire these same exact o-rings a lot cheaper.

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erics
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#6: Post by erics »

. . . as there has to be a way to acquire these same exact o-rings a lot cheaper.
Yes and no. "Yes" would require a boatload of research and you would likely be buying in quantities of at least 10.

There are a total of 10 O-rings in that kit plus the fiber gasket for the group cap.

(1) OR 113
(1) OR 109
(3) OR 3087
(3) OR 108 *
(1) OR 137
(1) OR 8-2-151

* These O-rings are listed as both OR 108 and OR 110 in all of the parts catalogs but LM has told me they are OR 108. In addition, OR 113 and OR 109 are not even illustrated in the MP Manual V1.3.

The bottom line - buy the kit from Chris' Coffee or LM directly.
Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

cebseb
Posts: 567
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#7: Post by cebseb »

erics wrote: The bottom line - buy the kit from Chris' Coffee or LM directly.

Welp, you just saved me about another 6 hours of research, trial, and error... I was halfway through the list you posted and I was starting to wonder if my efforts were really going to be cost-effective in the long run.

Thanks for all the help you provide to forum. You're a great asset to the community. Cheers.

Sebastian

CelliniEVO (original poster)
Posts: 138
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#8: Post by CelliniEVO (original poster) »

Wow! Thanks Eric, didn't realize that.

I just did my 1st round of backflushing since the rebuild and a lot of water is staying in the blank backflush disk and barely any is coming back out threw that hole that goes into the driptray (can't remember the name of it right now). I'm curious what could possibly be causing this? Running it on the reservoir, I wake up and the machine is idling at 3-bar and there is no water in the driptray....so as it heats up the grouphead isn't leaking, but not sure about that pressure reading?

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erics
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#9: Post by erics »

An improved drawing of the GS/3 MP assembly as an FYI:

Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

boost
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#10: Post by boost »

Is the leak coming out of A.1.015? if its leaking from the corner, my guess would be sealing problem between the upper H.1.010 O ring and the group cap. Since you got some scale in the group cap you have to be very careful when you put it together. Loose scale and debris can easily dislodged and get caught in the groove for the o ring in the valve body or even cut or nick your O ring.
Leaking from the ryton shaft o ring is also possibility but I think there are couple o rings that have to fail to leak through the top side.

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