Keno, just one more time, is it really this easy?
it just pops off but you'll need to use the thin sharp edge of a razor knife to pry it off.

A razor blade between the clear cover and the black rim?

I tried today with a jeweler's screwdriver but that wasn't fine enough and I couldn't get it apart.
I will try again with a razor...and hope not to remove any digits in the process...

Why why why is nothing ever as straightforward as I think it's going to be???

Okay, I have the cover off, but now the gauge reads significantly above the zero pressure mark, and I'm not sure why or whether that alters how I should label the markings I want on the face of the gauge (.5 kPa, 1.25 kPa, 2 kPa, 2.25 kPa, 2.5 kPa)

So?
Do I adjust upwards from where the gauge is resting now or will the zero setting still be accurate after I put the cover back on?


Oh, and yes getting that cover off was just as easy as getting a razor blade between the cover and the black rim of the dial.

I found these...

http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Press ... 4#ordering

0-3.75KkPa or 0-6KPa might work (still doesn't give better units), but perhaps a more useable scale (i.e., using more of the gage face versus just 1/3 of the gage).

LPG4-D8222N

Unfortunately, they don't have a back-mounted gage (wth the threaded fitting in the same position as the stock gage). These are bottom-mounted so you either need a 90-degree adapter, or learn to use the gage facing sideways.

SJM, you have twisted things while removing the gauge and /or cover but don't worry, that screw at the bottom is a calibration screw so you can re-zero it. I wouldn't bother recalibrating until you get it back in place because you will be twisting things again. Once back in place, recalibrate to zero before putting the cover back on.

SJM wrote:Why why why is nothing ever as straightforward as I think it's going to be???

Okay, I have the cover off, but now the gauge reads significantly above the zero pressure mark, and I'm not sure why or whether that alters how I should label the markings I want on the face of the gauge (.5 kPa, 1.25 kPa, 2 kPa, 2.25 kPa, 2.5 kPa)

So?
Do I adjust upwards from where the gauge is resting now or will the zero setting still be accurate after I put the cover back on?
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Oh, and yes getting that cover off was just as easy as getting a razor blade between the cover and the black rim of the dial.

Well, the first thing is to check if you are getting a maximum reading which is about 0.8 above the old maximum. In that case the meter isn't broke, just out of adjustment. You can mark your new zero and your new maximum and you should be done. Btw, given that Artisan power levels "defaults" in 10% increments to 100%, maybe marking every 20% could be an idea.

Anyhow, it's easy to mess things up. (I decided to check how to exchange the motor with or without the housing and I can for sure recommend getting an extra housing with a motor. Those little nuts inside the housing is a PITA to get back. Anyhow, the wires got ripped off in the process so I soldered them back in what I thought was the right position. (I checked in the other housing.) But of course they came on backwards, so the drum rotated in the wrong direction during todays first roasts. ... "Hmm, strange, I changed from 72 to 48 rpm, but there should still come beans in the tryer, shouldn't it???" Full stop, wait for the whole thing to cool down, rip it apart and resolder. Lesson learned, the drum rotates clockwise! Phew...

Btw, thank you okmed. These small things can drive you crazy until you find out how to do it...

edtbjon wrote: Anyhow, it's easy to mess things up. (I decided to check how to exchange the motor with or without the housing and I can for sure recommend getting an extra housing with a motor. Those little nuts inside the housing is a PITA to get back. Anyhow, the wires got ripped off in the process so I soldered them back in what I thought was the right position. (I checked in the other housing.) But of course they came on backwards, so the drum rotated in the wrong direction during todays first roasts. ... "Hmm, strange, I changed from 72 to 48 rpm, but there should still come beans in the tryer, shouldn't it???" Full stop, wait for the whole thing to cool down, rip it apart and resolder. Lesson learned, the drum rotates clockwise! Phew...

Btw, thank you okmed. These small things can drive you crazy until you find out how to do it...

I had the same problem..I quickly realized that it was impossible to do, so I put the nuts on the outside instead (going by my memory... I know I put them on opposite of how it came) and it worked perfect and was easy to do.

okmed wrote:SJM, you have twisted things while removing the gauge and /or cover but don't worry, that screw at the bottom is a calibration screw so you can re-zero it. I wouldn't bother recalibrating until you get it back in place because you will be twisting things again. Once back in place, recalibrate to zero before putting the cover back on.

Makes perfect sense.
I will try that.
Thank you.

Hmmm.... I'm wondering if recalibrating might solve my problem here...

Huky 500- IR stove - pressure gauge not registering

Nope! Just tested it. Recalibration screw does nothing. Leads me to believe the gage has gone bad.

Everything works just fine. The gauge did not need re-calibrating.
Now that I know I can take it apart and put it back together again I will add a few more markers.