Hario Skerton / Open Top Hand Grinder Lid - Page 3

#21: Post by **fwtechwiz** » October 15th, 2010, 7:39 am

Here is a photo of the Hario modified to stepless.

#22: Post by **rainstorm** » October 16th, 2010, 3:09 am

thank you my friend...
I thought that;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT

#23: Post by **rainstorm** » October 19th, 2010, 4:44 am

my last skerton...thank you for your helps...
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/1413/harioson1.jpg
http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/7924/harioson2.jpg
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/2451/img0325t.jpg
http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/1006/img0326o.jpg

#24: Post by **EricBNC** » December 30th, 2010, 6:32 pm

I made a plate to stabilize the lower burr, but did not describe it as well as I should have. Maybe a couple pictures well help explain better.

Before posting though, some commentary is warranted. I would rather buy a piece to add to my Skerton from someone with access to a tool and die fabrication shop - I only have my (actually my wife's tin snips) tin snips and the lid from a can. The lid is round, the lid is hard, the lid is thick in the one area it needs to be (the intersection of the vertical shaft and the horizontal stabilizer) and is free.

I hope the next picture posted if another member creates/improves on this idea looks better. I built only one since I stopped tinkering when the grind became acceptable. I am sure there is a better/faster/easier way.

#25: Post by **SlowRain** » December 30th, 2010, 9:26 pm

In case anyone missed the initial discussion (like I did), Eric has a couple of posts regarding this modification on page 2 of the Uneven grind with Zassenhaus Santiago Espresso thread.

I'm going to be heading back to Canada for a short visit in a few weeks. I'll have access to my father's shop, which is fairly well stocked. (Okay, I'll be honest: he's pretty handy with this kind of tinkering, so I'll just end up watching while he does all the work.)

Does anyone have any suggestions or alternatives so it's not metal on metal holding the bottom of the shaft? I worry that it'll wear and gouge.

#26: Post by AD » January 6th, 2011, 7:53 am

really interesting solution Eric. tried something similar last night and I found that the the hole for the shaft has to be super exact to grind evenly. I'm tinkering with some designs myself but I'm trying to stay away from metals. One thought I had was to cut it out of PETG or some similar plastic. There's no force vertically so as long as the design is stable horizontally it should be fine. Hmm...

#27: Post by **EricBNC** » January 6th, 2011, 9:26 am

Thanks for that - I think plastic would be strong enough too - as you mention, there is no real load on the stabilizer. The hole does have to be exact though. Here is what I did:

After installing the plate (with no center hole - yet) I stuck the threaded end of the inner burr shaft in the top hole (think of installing the inner burr upside down) and let it drop down against the plate. I counted on the upper hole to guide it down to the proper location. I twisted it a bit till a scuff marked the spot to puncture.

Then I worked the pointed end of a candy thermometer (I use it to measure coffee temps) through the top hole down to the center of my scuff and made a small hole. I enlarged this hole a little at a time from the bottom with the sharp end of a wire snipper tooth until I could almost thread the inner burr shaft through in it's inverted position.

Next I installed the inner burr in through this hole from the bottom and threaded the shaft up through the plate into the proper position. I was pleased with the centering and the reasonably snug fit.

It can be improved on though if someone has access to even the bare minimum of tooling for metal or other material. Keep us posted and good luck.

#28: Post by AD » January 6th, 2011, 11:01 am

Cool, thanks for the instructions. I also noticed that you do have a little leeway in positioning the passive burr when you loosen the screws so even if the hole for the shaft isn't perfect one should be able to tweak the burrs afterwards.

Edit: I've done an almost identical mod as you but instead of a metal piece I used plastic. It screws on to the shaft so it's a tight fit. The only thing I noticed was that if you really want to straighten the shaft you need to stabilize it at the top as well...

was hoping that I wouldn't have to do that. Ah well....

This is how it looks.

#29: Post by **EricBNC** » January 6th, 2011, 5:29 pm

AD wrote:...The only thing I noticed was that if you really want to straighten the shaft you need to stabilize it at the top as well... was hoping that I wouldn't have to do that. Ah well....

I started there - if you look at one of my pictures you will see a common washer at the bottom of the spider like area in the upper hopper chamber the shaft runs through. That washer only acts as a floor for a series of brass bushings I shoved up there a while back in an unsuccessful attempt to fix the very problem we are close to solving. These bushings should protect the plastic upper bearing from premature wear so I highly recommend some modification for reinforcement in this location anyway.

#30: Post by **rainstorm** » January 22nd, 2011, 3:39 am

@EricBNC thank you.this mod seems stable grinding. Did you try grind for espresso or what u think about it?