3 year old Expobar Office Pulser (rocker switch on front to brew).

Symptoms: At startup i was always used to a 5-10 second LOUD pumping, then silence while the unit heats up. A week or so ago (and ever since) I power up machine, and instead of the LOUD, brief pumping, I get a quieter pumping noise that starts and never stops. While noise continues, i can open steam wand and hot water and nothing happens, if i switch on brew water comes out of group head but pumping continues.

Diagnostics so far: water is being removed from the reservoir and pumped directly back in so i ASSUME pump is working (note the caps because I know about assumptions). I have opened up the OPV valve and it appears to be clear. Note that compared to all of the OPV valves i have seen on here, mine has a brass screw, and instead of a ball in the valve, there is a brass "plunger" with a rubber seal at the bottom. There is no blockage anywhere in the OPV. I've also tried opening group head, steam wand, etc. in case of vacuum but to no avail.

Background- house has softened water (very soft) and unit also had softener on it. I hate to admit but i have never descaled based upon recommendations for soft water when I first bought machine.

I searched the site before posting, but have not seen this problem elsewhere. Does anyone have any suggestions as to my next step in troubleshooting? I am a relatively handy guy but have no experience with these machines so i really don't know where to begin. My gut is there is a valve that feeds the boiler that is not opening. Could that be it? Or is the OPV spring shot and that plunger is simply not keeping the fill channel closed. What is the best way to see if anything is going into the boiler (only way i can guess to test my boiler fill valve theory).

Of course my household budget will not allow a replacement machine of this caliber, so i need to either fix it myself or get used to my french press

Thanks very much in advance for any advice/help.

I agree with Jim - the boiler fill solenoid valve is not opening. One side of this valve is connected to the discharge side of the pump (probably via a simple tee) and the other side has a 6 mm copper line going to the boiler. If you're very lucky, the solenoid has failed and that is probably a 5 minute fix after the covers are off.

Disconnect one of the heater element leads and tape over and do the same to one of the leads to the pump. You don't need heat nor the pump for these tests.

Turn the machine on and put a finger on the black coil housing for the valve. Normally you should feel a little vibration and a little warmth because I ASSUME the machine is still trying to fill the boiler. If you feel nothing, check for voltage (120 vac) at the solenoid connection which leads back to the Gicar control box.

Thanks guys.

Erics- sorry for my ignorance, but what is the GICAR control box?

It is the "brains" of the machine - about 4 x 4 x 1.5 inches and has maybe 7 wires attached. Typically it controls the boiler water level only but may have some safety circuits built in.