Rotary pump will not draw water after long storage - Page 2

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erics
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#11: Post by erics »

I do believe a vane (item 5) is "stuck" on a pin (item 4) - see below.



The cure would be to remove the fittings from the inlet/outlet of the pump and pour some white vinegar into either port while slowly turning the rotor, i.e. the pump should be full of vinegar. Give it a couple of hours and empty/rinse out.

I'll save it for a later post but those vanes move about 1/16" in one revolution and are held outward during operation via centrifugal force.

edit on 4/27 @ 2:50 pm - the pins serve to connect the vanes strictly via surface contact at the ends of each pin - think of the "tug of war" game you may play with your puppy. As a vane approaches the 12 o'clock position, it pushes the opposite vane out. This, along with centrifugal force, keeps the vanes in contact with the inner wall. The vanes are made from graphite and it seems highly improbable (if not impossible) that they can get stuck. However, with high wear on the vanes (the disappearance of the beveled edge), sticking is possible.
Skål,

Eric S.
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E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

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sweaner (original poster)
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#12: Post by sweaner (original poster) »

Eric, interesting! So, the pump would still turn if this were the case?
Scott
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erics
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#13: Post by erics »

Well, a qualified "yes". If the vane(s) is stuck "in", for sure. If the vane is stuck "out" or is very un-cooperative, well maybe as it is forced in and then sticks.

The Fluid-O-Tech engineer, Shawn Thompson, is a good guy and it may very well be worthwhile to do a rebuild considering the entire situation: (even after the vinegar soak).

Fluid-O-Tech, 161 Atwater St., Plantsville, CT 06479
(860) 276-9270, www.fluid-o-tech.com

I, of course, realize you have successfully operated Mr. V for the past several years with the suction arrangement you have BUT I do believe it has taken a toll - certainly not the direct cause of the current situation.
Skål,

Eric S.
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E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

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sweaner (original poster)
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#14: Post by sweaner (original poster) »

If I indeed have abused the pump you can say "I told you so."
Scott
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erics
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#15: Post by erics »

You do not deserve that type of response . . . yet :)
Skål,

Eric S.
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E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

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shadowfax
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#16: Post by shadowfax »

Interesting knowledge, Eric. Thanks for weighing in. Scott, I second that Shawn of Fluid-O-Tech is a great guy and loves to talk espresso machines, flow rates, etc.; I think he's working on his own home-brew pod espresso machine. In case you haven't read my comments in other threads, last I talked to him they charged $30 to refurbish a pump, and the turnaround was pretty fast. If your pump's just a year old, they might even do it pro bono... He did for one of mine that was leaking (very, very slowly, accumulating scale) out of one of the weeping holes around the collar of the pump for free-no verification asked for, just gentleman's honor or whatever you want to call it.
Nicholas Lundgaard

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sweaner (original poster)
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#17: Post by sweaner (original poster) »

As I bought the machine off eBay, I have no idea how old it is, but I would have no problem paying $30 if needed. I am lucky the thing worked when I bought it. I knew nothing about these machines....or what could go wrong if they are not maintained.
Scott
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sweaner (original poster)
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#18: Post by sweaner (original poster) »

Well, a trip to Home Depot AND Lowe's (of course, HD was out of the one fitting I needed), and $6 later I was able to attach the machine to the utility sink. With the line pressure the pump was able to fill the boiler, and I was able to pull my first shot with the Vetrano in over 10 months. All I had on hand was a 2 week old Ethiopian, but it was real good! Thank you all for the help and encouragement.

Now, if I can just get the plumber back for the rest of the work. Does anyone know if there are any special plumbing codes for plumbing machines in?
Scott
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HB
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#19: Post by HB »

sweaner wrote:Does anyone know if there are any special plumbing codes for plumbing machines in?
I'm not a certified plumber, but at a minimum, you'll need a backflow preventer. A check valve, normally-closed solenoid, or pressure regulator should do the job. The purpose of such devices is to prevent contaminants from being sucked out of household appliances into the city water system in the event of a mains water pressure failure. In our area, town inspectors take this step very seriously; a couple years back, e coli was introduced into our town's water supply, thanks to an incompetent DIY plumber. The result was a town-wide boil water order until it was tracked down.
Dan Kehn

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