by Sam21 on Thu Mar 08, 2012 5:57 pm
Here. #25. Great packaging. The bag will come in handy for packing the grinder in a suitcase, or backpack.
Here are my first impressions:
The build quality is outstanding. As expected, the grinder is heavy, and feels substantial when grinding. This is in comparison to my OE PFP and Hario Mini Mill. I had 4-5oz of throw-away beans to do a few test grinds and check out the adjustability. I attached the handle using the furthest threaded hole, set the grinder to 1.5 rotations, and ground out ~10g. I started by pushing the jar into my stomach with my left hand and rotating the handle with my right. Smooooth.
After I finished, I noticed a bit of static around the pointer cap on the adjustment bolt. Upon closer inspection, the grounds attached to it looked like powder. I gave the grinder one tap with my palm on the bottom of the jar and dumped the grinds out to have a look. At 1.5, the grind looked like a coarse drip, although upon looking back at the grounds container I noticed some static on the glass. The grounds that were clinging looked to be a fine powder. Maybe the burrs needed some warm up time?
The second round at 1.5 seemed to have much less dust and in general looked nice. I should say that I am comparing this to what I get out of my Preciso. I did notice a touch more dust, but it's really difficult for my to say that, as I am just grinding 10g samples. For the second test, I adjusted the grinder to two full rotations from zero, added 10g of beans, and set off grinding. I kept it nice, slow, and even with a slight downward pressure with my grip on the handle. I'm very new to hand grinders and the appropriate way to hold/grind with them, so I just assumed that the grinder need some downwards pressure on the handle to keep the central shaft/burr full down in its setting. The coarse grinds at two looked nice. Again, I saw what seemed to be some more dust in comparison to my Preciso, but it absolutely blew away anything my OE PFP/Skerton/Mini Mill could pull off. I'm really not taking anything away from this little test run for a few reasons. #1. It's what's in the cup that counts. #2. I was using stale 30 day old beans. #3. I was doing everything by eye on paper plates ... not very scientific!
The one thing that I did notice was at times it seemed that there was a decent amount of dust building up on the wall of the catch jar/t-cap the was on the slight lean of the unit as I was grinding. I don't know if this dust is inevitable, or if it is the result of how I am grinding, but it was there. This was most prevalent in the coarse grinds/coarser drip grinds. Similar to Doug in his video, I just gave a solid tap or two and everything settled into the catcher jar. Obviously this is just a first impression with stale beans and by eye only, so I am very excited to see how it performs when I actually use it for a press, aeropress, or V60.
As I said, the build quality and stabilization of the burr is just as good as it looks! I only spent 15 minutes grinding up little samples, so take everything I wrote for what it is! I should also note that I have never seen beans ground to specified microns in a grinder like a Ditting for comparison, so my idea of what a grind should look like, or how many fines is acceptable is completely biased. I'm simply describing what I see.
Final first impression thoughts: Great build quality, great packaging/mobility for travel, promising initial grinds with a lot of quality time to be had!
*EDIT* I decided that I needed to try running a scoop of fresh beans through the LIDO while set at two full rotations from the zero point. Again, a bit of dust, but nothing that makes me worry about overall grind quality. I'm really antsy to try it out!
I do have one question for other LIDO owners (as the information begins coming to the surface)... to find the zero point of the burrs (in case I were to lose track of rotations in a morning daze), I just rotate the t-cap/adjustment bolt clockwise until it tightens up. At this point, the t-cap is pointing NOT at the brass washer that signals the zero point, so I then adjust the t-cap/adjustment bolt counterclockwise until I am back at the brass washer. Essentially, I tighten the adjustment bolt until it stops mid-rotation and then back it off to the brass washer/zero point. Does this sound like the right way to re-find my factory zero point? Overall, the adjustment system is a piece of cake and very easy to gauge, as the bolts act like the face of a clock. Really nice!