Wonky Elektra Microcasa a Leva heating element?

Equipment doesn't work? Troubleshooting? If you're handy, members can help.
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msmith
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Joined: 18 years ago

#1: Post by msmith »

Hi folks, just replaced the element on my Elektra MCaL, and things aren't quite right. Everything powers up, all lights are on, but the machine warms very slowly. After 30 minutes, the machine is hot to the touch, but it never gets as hot as it needs to, the needle never budges in the gauge, the heating light never shuts off and there is no pressure released when the steam valve is opened, even after an hour. I've pressed the thermostat reset repeatedly, and had the bottom off to re-check all my connections. Do you think the new element is faulty, or is it the thermostat? I have access to a voltage meter, but don't really know what to check for, or if that's even something worth checking :)

I'd really appreciate any help with this,

Best,

Malcolm
LMWDP 142

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rpavlis
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#2: Post by rpavlis »

I think you have an element for a 230 volt machine! Then you will have only 1/4 as much heat input.

Somehow you got the wrong element.

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msmith (original poster)
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Joined: 18 years ago

#3: Post by msmith (original poster) »

No, it's clearly stamped 110V :) Unless there was a bit of a mix-up in Treviso, that's not the issue. But thank you for reading my post, and I appreciate the suggestion.

M
LMWDP 142

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crazy4espresso
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#4: Post by crazy4espresso »

Get a multimeter and test the element, to be sure. Disconnect wires and measure resistance across the element. Set the meter to measure ohms.
"I would rather suffer with coffee than be senseless." — Napoleon Bonaparte
LMWDP #427

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msmith (original poster)
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#5: Post by msmith (original poster) »

Thanks C4E, can I do that while the element is still installed? Or better to remove it before testing?

M
LMWDP 142

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rpavlis
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#6: Post by rpavlis »

You can also check voltage across element when powered up. Be careful doing this. It should read 117 or so volts, of course. If it read 117 volts, manufacturer somehow mislabelled element.

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crazy4espresso
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#7: Post by crazy4espresso »

msmith wrote:Thanks C4E, can I do that while the element is still installed? Or better to remove it before testing?

M
You just need access to the terminals. Disconnect the wires going to them first, then measure resistance. If it's supposed to put out 800 watts, then a 240v element would give you a reading of 72 ohms. A 120v element would give you a reading of 18 ohms.

As mentioned a 240v 800 watt element plugged into 120v would only give you 200 watts of power, 1/4 of what it's meant to put out.
"I would rather suffer with coffee than be senseless." — Napoleon Bonaparte
LMWDP #427

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msmith (original poster)
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#8: Post by msmith (original poster) »

Thanks to you both for the info, I'll borrow the F-I-L's meter tonight and test after work.

M
LMWDP 142

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stefano65
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#9: Post by stefano65 »

Check first that voltage is arriving to the HE terminals,
resettable thermostats and pressurestat can/will fail
then focus on the ohm
I just tested couple of stock HE pre 05
15 ohm 120v HE
60 ohm 230v HE (post 70)
one-due ohm variable not an issue

if the value is way off is possible that the heating element got melted (cold water added as machine was heating up)
and the short reading through the water will still create some Heat
Stefano Cremonesi
Stefano's Espresso Care
Repairs & sales from Oregon.

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msmith (original poster)
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#10: Post by msmith (original poster) »

Thanks very much Stefano, mine is post '05, would the values change much?

M
LMWDP 142

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