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Wiring older Pavoni Pro

Postby mindless_fool on Mon Aug 10, 2009 12:01 pm

Ok so here is my problem....i took my boiler element off to get into the boiler to clean it out as it was really dirty and had a lot of build up when i got the machine. I took a picture of the way it was wired, but somehow the picture got corrupted and i cannot open the file on either a mac or pc....

So can anyone help me and tell me where the four wires on these 2 pics go on the switch???? pretty please???

there is one blue wire coming from the boiler, a black wire with white protective sleeve coming form the presurestat, and then there is a white and a black both with white sleeve coming from the power cord.

thanks for any help guys..
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Postby Heilmittellehre on Mon Aug 10, 2009 4:23 pm

I think this http://www.pavoniexpress.com/Pro2001.jpg diagram will work.
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Postby mindless_fool on Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:25 pm

well i think i got it wired back the way it was, i did it wrong and a spark flew from the back of the switch and now it wont heat up...dont think there is a fuse, is my pavoni dead????
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Postby Heilmittellehre on Tue Aug 11, 2009 4:51 pm

Did you check the switch for proper continuity? Maybe (hopefully) you just fried the switch.
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Postby mindless_fool on Tue Aug 11, 2009 9:21 pm

i was checking with a multimeter and i hit the wrong thing and thats what caused the spark and now its not working. i blew a fuse in the multimeter and replaced it today, i also noticed that when its plugged in the switch is bright red as normal when on, but when its off the light is red just not as bright, so i went to a local parts store and got a new switch that matches the amps, will try that. If its the presurestat can i just bypass that to test and rule out the element being damaged? or do i need it for the machine to warm up?
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Postby Fullsack on Wed Aug 12, 2009 12:27 am

Europiccola switch problem, how do I troubleshoot?

Edit: Check your wiring against the "pro" wiring picture on this thread.

What did I do? (La Pavoni Pro)
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Postby mindless_fool on Wed Aug 12, 2009 8:18 pm

that pro is very different, more wires, has a fuse, different pressurestat...
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Postby orphanespresso on Thu Aug 13, 2009 5:14 am

The idea of a fuse or no fuse is a red herring since the fuse on the boiler plate on many models is a THERMAL fuse set to blow or melt at 145C, not a overload amp fuse, so this is not an issue. To check the element to assure yourself that it is OK unhook all the wires and test ohms accross the contacts on the element ends (look at the element and check ohms on that coil....for some reason you have two elements in the base on this pro, which is odd as they usually have but one coil on a pstat equipped machine, so some change has been made to along the line on this machine). Seems to me you have an old style Europiccola element in it and an added pstat. Odd duck all around for sure. On the element you should get some ohm reading, not 1 or 0 but some number, one higher than the other, this is good.
To make the machine work right, first check the switch, it should be a DPST switch, so when it is in the off position there is no continuity between any of the poles and when on there should be continuity between the contacts on one side and the other side, in pairs as it were. To properly wire these 4 prong switches, your two wires on the cord go to the cold side of the switch. On the hot side of the switch one wire goes to the pstat and then to the element, and the other wire (the neutral) goes to the other post of the element. Since you have an oddball element for that switch (the dual element usually takes a 6 prong switch, not 4) you need to join up the terminals on the two elements into one by bridging to make what would amount to a single element in the circuit.

This will make much more sense when you draw a wiring diagram. Pencil and paper and stare at it.

Also, this type of element had a thermal safety switch which is the kind that you may see shielded in a silicone tube and is held against the boiler by use of a brass bar which bridges two of the element posts. This fuse wire begins at the neutral side of the switch and terminates on the neutral side of the element.

Also, I see no ground wire in your photo, which should be attached to the boiler plate by a small screw. This machine is either a Europiccola with an added pstat or a pro with an added europiccola element, but either way there is some sorting out to do.
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Postby mindless_fool on Thu Aug 13, 2009 9:00 am

thanks orphanespresso for the info...makes sense..all the wiring and pictures of the pros ive seen didnt look like mine at all. I checked my old switch and it gives me funny readings on my mutimeter, needle goes all over the place, so i got a new one. That one gives no readings when off, so should be fine. If i have a Europiccola element, should i get a switch for a Europiccola? a dual switch? From what i was told by the guy who sold it to me (he fixes old machines as a hobby) its is a Pro and he put a new element on it as the old one was dead.

thanks again, cant wait til its up and running...need coffee and my old breville machine isnt cutting it...


FOUND THE PROBLEM...its the presurestat...i put my multimeter on the element, all was fine, wired in the new switch, did nothing, bipassed the pressure stat by plugging in the blue hot wire that goes from the element prongs to the pressure stat directly into the switch, and it worked...machine heated up, but now it wont turn off at .9bar like i use to since there is no pressure stat, i got to order a new one i guess, mine is different from the ones on the websites for parts, its bigger, will it still be compatible? i guess i can still use the machine for now and just turn it off when it hits 1 bar on my dial..
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Postby orphanespresso on Fri Aug 14, 2009 4:42 am

That pstat is actually a pretty high end unit, with the brass set screw on the side. Can you diagnose the problem to the microswitch or the diaphragm in the brass part? Before you change it out (a Mater with 1/4" fitting will fit right in) check to see if the switch contacts are clean and run continuity checks on the switch itself....I think it comes off the brass part so you can open and close the switch by hand to check on/off function. clean with electronic cleaner etc. If the body of the pstat comes apart you can replace the diaphragm as well, as long as the switch part is still OK. A bad diaphragm usually means that the pressure will run away with no control since the machine will sense no pressure and not shut off but a no current through the switch may be simpler to fix than the diaphragm.
That is the pstat that is used on the La Pavoni Eurobar a leva, so if you give up on trying to fix it whatever you do don't throw it away! Could do somebody some good.
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