Hi. Anyone have a schematic for the Europiccola old-style double switch? I'm suspecting mine might be faulty and would like to test it. Thanks.

If you go to the site beolow... It has all the information you will need to test the switch and heating element if it is needed.
http://www.pavoniexpress.com/

Thanks Bob. I've been to that site, and it's helpful. But it doesn't show the wiring schematic for the switch itself. Specifically, of all six terminals on the switch, it doesn't mention terminal three--which is the terminal I am suspecting on my switch. When I check terminal 3 with my multi-tester, I can't establish continuity to any of the other terminals. This is a new switch I just received to replace the original, which crumbled to pieces. So... I would like to know how the thing works (is supposed to work!).

Do you suspect that the new switch is faulty? One way of testing the circuit is to set your multi tester to 200 ohms and connect each lead to either prong of the electrical plug (NOT PLUGGED IN... OF COURSE)... turn the Europiccola switch to on and it should read 56.8 +/- for the low setting and 14.6 +/- for the high setting.

Ok, with out a wiring diagram handy...lets think through this..

4 poles - right?
1 switch is - On / Off( 2 poles)- One leg I suspect splits and goes to one end (each) of both the 2 element loops)
One switch is Hi / Lo ( 2 more poles) this one switches from one / to the other of the element loops.

I am not sure which switch is #3 in your book- but the On / off switch needs to not have any continuity in off position. Then when switched on, diverts one leg of the power to either Hi or Lo ( which ever is selected) . correct?

That leg would seem to connect the path to the appropriate element loop that isselected - either (ll or l).

So is your machine not working with the new switch or are you analyzing the switch before you have tried it ?

I am no electrician mind you - just having fun with logic. Which may not come into play here..... I hope I have not obscured the real answer from someone that can dig up the diagram for you..

Ciao

I am no electrician, either -- but the machine seems pretty straightforward. That said, when it did not work after I replaced the crumbled away and flickering old switch (that is, the new switch light came on, but no heat) and I had tested all the wires, I took it to the local electronic shop, who looked it over and told me the element was burned out. I'm not sure they knew what they were talking about--but I took them at their word and ordered a new element--stainless steel (new), to replace the old heavier element, which is copper (?) and much more substantial. I put in the new element--all pretty straightforward --and still nothing. The switch light goes on, but no heat.

So... I started looking at the replacement switch, wondering if that was the culprit after all.

Bob, I'll try the test you suggest and see what that tells me. If that's not it, I guess I need to start at the beginning again, with renewed patience.

I've got half a mind to bypass the switch altogether, wire it direct off the plug, then plug it into a multistrip and use that as on/off power, just to see if the machine heats up that way. That's probably pretty crude, but that's where I'm at. Anybody with any suggestions or experience at tracking down this sort of thing, I am in need of encouragement and welcome advice. Many thanks.

I took some digital pictiures of how the double switch in the older Euros should be wired when I did a rebuild a couple of years ago. When I find the pics I will put them on so that you can compare what you have.





You can save these to your computer, blow them up to see more detail. Then test to see that your switch settings correlate to the resistance of the high and low element.

If you can't zoom these pics with any detail... PM me your email address and I will send the high resolution originals.