www.greatinfusions.com: espresso cups and barista gear, showroom in Santa Cruz

Vintage Europiccola - pretty, but yikes... - Page 2

Postby mogogear on Mon Nov 06, 2006 8:51 pm

I'm sure the inclined party will re-recommend the penetrating fluid for you to use... but I would just get a good pair of vise-grip type pliers after you have let the P-fluid work for a couple of days. Clamp on, and as Richard suggested tap once or twice in the "tighten" direction and then smartly yank in the "loosen" direction. 50 / 50 - Bolt loosens or .........

But as opposed to my friend, Espressme, Richardo, I would apply available heat to the outside of the area where the bolt is lodged ( boiler housing or flange) instead of to the bolt head. I should think you would want the threaded "female" hole to expand ever so slightly. If the bolt expanded - it would defeat the purpose of applying heat.

Stiff upper lip and all that..
greg moore

Leverwright
LMWDP #067
User avatar
mogogear
 
Posts: 1476
Joined: Feb 20, 2006
Location: NEPDX

Postby espressme on Tue Nov 07, 2006 1:24 am

mogogear wrote:I'm sure the inclined party will re-recommend the penetrating fluid for you to use... but I would just get a good pair of vise-grip type pliers after you have let the P-fluid work for a couple of days. Clamp on, and as Richard suggested tap once or twice in the "tighten" direction and then smartly yank in the "loosen" direction. 50 / 50 - Bolt loosens or .........
But as opposed to my friend, Espressme, Richardo, I would apply available heat to the outside of the area where the bolt is lodged ( boiler housing or flange) instead of to the bolt head. I should think you would want the threaded "female" hole to expand ever so slightly. If the bolt expanded - it would defeat the purpose of applying heat.
Stiff upper lip and all that..

Hi Mo!
Hydrocarbon penetrating oil. That will remove with a wash / boil-out, but some synthetics are absorbed and will not come out, but leach almost forever. Citrus products do work on occasion. Remember that the stronger citrics extracted are made by the plant to kill bugs. That is according to my OSHA HazMat teacher. Citric acid is as far as I will go even for pot cleaning.

I second the vise grips. They need to be real snug! Just locking them may break the bolt free due to the sharp snap of the locking being directly transmitted to the crud. It has happened to me. :shock:

I suggest placing a strong anti-clockwise torque pressure onto the fastener head using the vise grips and then, with a small hammer / bolt / couple of ounce metal piece,.... sharply rap the plier jaws at the fastener head a few times. I would also suggest removing the steam wasnd if yu have not yet done so. That allows more control of the actions.
I should think you would want the threaded "female" hole to expand ever so slightly. If the bolt expanded - it would defeat the purpose of applying heat.

I look at the possibility that the bolt expands and crushes the goop. then it contracts and sucks in more lube. 8)

Perhaps Alchemist can tell us whether a hole gets smaller or larger with heat in a localized area. Huh,Huh,Huh?????? I've had this discussion with engineers before.. They too are undecided. But, they specify tolerances that allow the hole to contract with heat anyway. :twisted:

Goodnight all
richard / espressme
richard penney LMWDP #090,
User avatar
espressme
 
Posts: 1354
Joined: May 31, 2006
Location: Menomonie,WI

Postby sneakymagic on Tue Nov 07, 2006 9:09 am

Hi there,
that's quite some set of pics!

I can heartily recommend http://www.espressoservices.co.uk based in Stirling: I shipped my Europiccola to them for an overhaul and they were extremely helpful. They carry enormous amounts of parts, and are happy to help over the phone. I'm not associated with them, before anyone asks - they are in fact a rival supplier of one of my own product lines!

Hope that helps,
Peter
sneakybynamesneakybynature
User avatar
sneakymagic
 
Posts: 135
Joined: Jun 14, 2006
Location: Edinburgh, UK

Previous

Return to Lever Espresso Machines