Power cord, power switch, power from the switch especially to the heating elements.

That is how I would do it.

12ga wires have the legal ability to carry 20A @ 120V+/-. 14ga carries max 15A. @120V+/-.

It is definitely lame for the machine to come from the manufacturer with this kind of defects. On the other hand, if you are handy enough to fix it and you really like the machine then it's probably worth making the fixes and keeping the machine. You'll only need to do it once . You might be able to get a partial refund from the manufacturer to fund the parts.

FotonDrv wrote:Power cord, power switch, power from the switch especially to the heating elements.

That is how I would do it.

12ga wires have the legal ability to carry 20A @ 120V+/-. 14ga carries max 15A. @120V+/-.

The spec you are using is for power transmission (e.g. IEC cables) but for chassis wiring it is considerably higher.

So I wouldn't bother if it is indeed 14 AWG. It is 7 minutes to reach full temp so it will work (albeit *possibly* not within the code - AWG14 is spec'ed up to 32A for chassis wiring). The Voltage drop would be 0.08 on a 1ft piece which would be about 1W over 1ft (warm - not hot). Would 12AWG be better - yes, but not critical (nor even worthwhile) in my book.

My concern would be if they use 21AWG (which would be borderline spec'ced for the 9A max of the European version). That would get a 0.33V drop or over 4W - that would be a very hot wire (which would melt PVC - not sure how silicone would handle it - possibly okay). It would also heat up every connected device such as safety switches, pressure switches, etc.

I wouldn't have used 21 gauge even in the EU (wire rating should be substantially higher than the fuse rating to ensure the fuse blows before there is a chance for a fire) - but the IEC inlet is already spec'ced at 10A so these guys are cutting it close. Sad for a machine that is in the price range of a Londinium/E61/Bosco/Linea Mini.... The price margin is in the single dollars...

The high ambient temperature will also influence the performance / current rating and life of the cable.
If it is in close proximity to the high temperature components such as the boiler the derating factor should be considered.
Given the circumstances I would not use PVC as stated above as it can melt, drip, flow and burn in the wrong circumstances.
A crosslinked insulation material such as Radox 125 or Radox 155 will overcome this and can operate with higher core temperatures which are relevant to this discussion.
There is some good information in the following link, http://literature.hubersuhner.com/Techn ... result=sip
In case the link does not work as planned go to page 142 and 144

AssafL wrote:I wouldn't have used 21 gauge even in the EU (wire rating should be substantially higher than the fuse rating to ensure the fuse blows before there is a chance for a fire) - but the IEC inlet is already spec'ced at 10A so these guys are cutting it close. Sad for a machine that is in the price range of a Londinium/E61/Bosco/Linea Mini.... The price margin is in the single dollars...

Ventus is $5495 at 1st Line making it $1200 more then a Bosco through a U.S. dealer, $1000 more then the LM Mini & $2000 more then the Pompei the OP originally wanted. If I was in the OP's situation that Ventus would have already been returned.

JohnB. wrote:If I was in the OP's situation that Ventus would have already been returned.

+1

+1 - If indeed he had bought it from 1st-Line. Seems he got it online, hence he may have to ship it to Italy. (Sad...)

My considerations would be the cost of crating, pelleting and shipping the thing, vs. the cost (and risk) of getting it to spec. And to deal with the thrifty Italians (proven thrifty having skimped on a 15A IEC box and Fuse) to get your money back in real money.

In a lever machine, the brain is the spring (the autofill is chump-change). Therefore the risk is very small....

What I would probably do is get the manufacturer to pay for an electrician to rewire it. Or get other concessions.

NB - Living in the states one gets used to the concept of "returning things". Living in Israel (and probably anywhere else), one has to consider that many times the cost of shipping with the creative come along tariffs (customs, freight cost, international handling, stuff like "dimensional weight", Hazardous material paperwork, standards institution license and many other piggyback services) can severely offset even the potential to do a "return".

The OP did say that the vendor said he could return the Ventus with no charge for shipping.

AssafL wrote:The spec you are using is for power transmission (e.g. IEC cables) but for chassis wiring it is considerably higher.

So I wouldn't bother if it is indeed 14 AWG. It is 7 minutes to reach full temp so it will work (albeit *possibly* not within the code - AWG14 is spec'ed up to 32A for chassis wiring). The Voltage drop would be 0.08 on a 1ft piece which would be about 1W over 1ft (warm - not hot). Would 12AWG be better - yes, but not critical (nor even worthwhile) in my book.

I wouldn't use 14 AWG. It is OK if you run as a single wire, but if you coil it up at all, you will get significant heat where the wires are close together.

I once bought a coiled up 100 foot extension cord and just pulled one end out of the coil to power a tool of some sort. After 10 minutes or so, I finished and looked at the coiled extension cord. It had melted all the PVC. It was pretty scary. Last time I did that.

Basically, you have to assume that someone is going to coil up and tie the excess wire. And that could easily start a fire.

Better safe than sorry.

Having repaired way to many various commercial electrical and electronics items electronics chassis wiring is notoriously undersized primarily in the power supply. For the power wiring in this machine high quality 90C rated stranded #12 wire would be the prudent choice as at this point the actual cost difference to whoever pays the bill will not amount to $1.00 difference.