This seems to be the correct sizing for the Caravel switches. I'm not sure if the later version 2 uses the same.

After hours of looking i found a replacement made by Omron for the Caravel switch. Don't know about the early VAMs yet.

Model SS10 is rated for 10A at 125v


https://www.omron.com/ecb/products/sw/12/ss.html


Carried by Digikey:

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en ... -ND/369861

Nice find! This looks really promising. Good price point, too.

I checked the amperage on my machine the other day - it read 4.8A at 120V, as expected.

I didn't check the temperature in the area where the switch is located, but I will do that soon. My only reservation with the Omron SS10 is the high temp rating at 85°C. It's likely that the switch never gets that hot in the space below the heating element, but I'd like to verify that first.

Sean

Getting mixed signals between the Omron site and Digikey.

Omron shows 10.1A @ 250V and Digikey has it at 125V. The activation force may be a bit too hard for the Caravel. A little thin, but could be shimmed.

Regarding environmental temps in the switch location, it's almost directly behind the boiler. Another reason to get something with lots of headroom, as the heat from the boiler will be added to that generated by the switch..

Yeah, it was a bit confusing.

Found another omron datasheet. This one clearly distinguishes the SS-10 from the SS-5, and specifies a rating of 10.1 A @125v/250v

https://www.components.omron.com/compon ... s_1110.pdf

SS10 Data in paranthesis

A bit confusing is putting it mildly.

I screwed up the original switch purchase by not noticing it was NO(normally off), so purchased one of these - http://www.ebay.com/itm/350279916183?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

redbone wrote:The two switch companies we buy from at work are Omron and Switchcraft. Being a newly indited VAM carvel-itta I'll be following this thread. I also have access to high temp and speciality wire used in commercial applications. Rob

Have not forgotten the thread. Switchcraft never got back to my emails

Me neither. Waiting for the new switch, hopefully today.

OK, a little progress. The second switch arrived and seems to be workable. Some background on how the system is designed first. This pertains to this VAM/Caravel, but earlier and later versions are about the same with small differences.

The 'rocker' bar is attached to the back of the body with a pivot at the attachment point. The top of the rocker is impacted by the bi-metal strip on the boiler, the bottom tab on the rocker impacts the microswitch, and there is no intended adjustment. The microswitch is attached to a bracket that pivots at the top and bottom. The top pivot is attached to the body and the bottom is attached to the shaft of the control knob. The whole thing works by the bi-metal strip hitting the rocker, which impacts the switch. The switch turns the element off and the bi-metal goes back to normal state, which causes the switch to turn on, rinse and repeat. If disassembling, the placement of the switch bracket pivot on the shaft is the only engineered adjustment. Bending the bi-metal strip on the boiler or the rocker will get you in trouble. It's also important to make sure the bottom pivot is oriented correctly on the shaft.The adjustment of the pivot on the shaft is very limited, and figuring out the best placement will drive you nuts. It seemed the best place to start was at the end of the threads on the shaft while the knob was at full stop clockwise(+).

After a futzing with all this for two days I got it to cycle within a decent range(all things considered).

At full CC(-) - off at 206f and on at 183f
At full CW(+) - off at 207f+ and on at 190f
In the middle - off at 212f+ and on at 186f

Unfortunately it was sticking on sometimes at the high end, so going back in to see what the problem is. My guess is the friction between the plastic button on the switch and the rocker tab is the cause. Another thing that happens is as the machine heats it impacts how the system works. From a service standpoint this is one of the worst engineered devices I've run into, made worse by having to kludge the switch. Getting it properly oriented in the bracket is a pain, involving filling and emptying the boiler and making minute adjustments to the position of the switch in the bracket, all while juggling hot parts.

Nice write up cuppajoe.

I've ordered parts to make a temperature controller and also act as an on/off switch for the VAM. It has a temp probe on the controller that will cycle the power on/off according to the desired temp range. Here is a picture of one used mainly with home brewers who make keezers. I was contemplating a PID but figured that it would be overkill for the VAM\Caravel application.