I apologize for asking an electrical question concerning a '99 Salvatore Famosa, on the thread devoted to the Olympia Cremina.
BUT- folks here seem very knowledgeable....

??What would be the expected impedance across the plug's white and black prongs??? I'm measuring around 8 ohms (DC) on a Fluke multimeter, when I flip the on switch (not plugged into 120 V)??

Rich, that makes it an easy choice. New element it is!

iF, and that is IF your elctrical short to ground is caused by moisture you could resolve it by baking the element. In my case it was moisture because the element seals were not seated 100% and water crept through making the contacts of the element moist. I replaced the seals after scraping the seating totally flat (some leftover from the old seals) and the moisture never returned.
I agree that getting to the root cause of the short is important...

doublehelix wrote:I apologize for asking an electrical question concerning a '99 Salvatore Famosa, on the thread devoted to the Olympia Cremina.
BUT- folks here seem very knowledgeable....

??What would be the expected impedance across the plug's white and black prongs??? I'm measuring around 8 ohms (DC) on a Fluke multimeter, when I flip the on switch (not plugged into 120 V)??

You can do the math, P=U*I and U=I*R if you know the heaters power rating in Watt and your voltage you can calculate the approximate resistance reading.
1000 watt on 120v gives you 8.3 A
120V/8.3A gives you 14 Ohm so if your element has a slightly higher rating it should be OK, but do the math with your numbers.

doublehelix wrote:I apologize for asking an electrical question concerning a '99 Salvatore Famosa, on the thread devoted to the Olympia Cremina.
BUT- folks here seem very knowledgeable....

??What would be the expected impedance across the plug's white and black prongs??? I'm measuring around 8 ohms (DC) on a Fluke multimeter, when I flip the on switch (not plugged into 120 V)??

Look on the nameplate and see what they claim for power consumption. Your numbers indicate a nominal 1000W element. Be sure to check both the black and white to ground as well. If you read less than open circuit on either the white or black with a Fluke then this will require further testing.

OldNuc and Merceini-

THANK YOU!!!!!!! I'll check the impedance of the black and white prongs to ground......

I believe this is the problem - the element appears to be split. The lines visible in the photos don't appear anywhere else on the element and I don't think they are simply scoring. I was cleaning the element up with a wire brush and discovered the split area.



The stories these old machines could tell...the element baseplate is an odd situation. It's clearly original, with a 1974 stamp, and the bolts came out after a bit of coaxing. Some crud on a couple of the threads but as I have some new ones leftover from another rebuild, I'll simply replace with new ones. Here's what is odd: the cavity for the resettable thermal fuse - on the side of the plate that is inside the boiler - has a small dent in it, yet I really don't think the element has ever been removed from the base since it left the factory 41 years ago, and it's difficult to see how this could have happened from above. The other oddity is the condition of two of the bolt holes in the element plate - not in keeping with Swiss precision:

Does look like that element is shot and should be replaced.

I'm somewhat confused as to how the OE replacement element works with the thermal cutoff. I think the replacements they sell are Breville elements, and the instructions on OE's website are pretty clear as to the removal / installation process...but it looks to me like the thermal safety switch recess is either integrated into the element on my element baseplate, or at the very least, has to be in direct contact with the element coil. Has anyone done this swap with a Cremina of similar vintage (or with this setup)?

The thermal switch should NOT be in contact with the element.