by uscfroadie on Tue May 24, 2011 3:52 pm
I have not used the older LaPavonis, only the Pro, so everything below pertains to it. Though they look the same, the group head size (49/51mm), internals (brass/plastic sleeve/piston), boiler cap with vacuum breaker built in, and two-position switch/pressurestat are just a few of the differences I know of.
- Grouphead too hot? Look at your espresso to tell. Yellow/light tan = too cold (sour shot), brown with darker speckles = bang on, dark brown and a bit stinky = too hot (burnt).
- Boiler pressure setting? .8 bar is the suggested starting point and you can tweak to suit your needs/beans. Lighter roast prefer slightly higher temps/darker prefer lower.
One poster mention 1.3 bar, cutting off the machine at .8 to pull the shots, which will work for one shot, but the excess heat generated during the .5 bar increase will find its way to the group head and will heat it up, so shots 2 - whatever will be hotter than your first. .8 bar with a single-hole tip (or with two of the original three on the standard tip blocked with toothpick pieces) will produce sufficient steam to froth enough milk for a 6 ounce cappuccino in about 30 seconds, IIRC.
- Low volume of espresso on one pull? Group head is small, so you will not get the volume I do out of my Cremina, but you should get enough for a 1.5 ounce shot. Perhaps your low volume is due to a tiny bit of false pressure not being bled off for the first shot. I say tiny because the Pro has a vacuum breaker built into the boiler cap that addresses this concern, though not fully - very nice feature!!
When warming up, after the heating element cuts off and you think it is at operating temp, open the steam valve to vent off pressure. The heating element should come on again. When it stops the second time, the boiler is at the top of the pressurestat setting, so temp-wise, the boiler is ready to go.
Now it's time to heat up the grouphead before pulling the shot or you'll end up with a light tan cup of sour espresso in your cup. To fix this, perform a warming flush. Here's how...
- Place a cup or steaming pitcher under the portafilter, lift the lever to pull water through the group and the portafilter. Do this until the water starts to flash boil (hisses). You are looking at pulling about 3 or so ounces of water. **you can use this water to heat up your cup!** Lower lever.
- Grind, dose, and tamp. Lock in your portafilter, though not fully.
- When lifting the lever, do so with the portafilter installed but not fully locked in until your reach the mid-point of your lever lift (will prevent pulling air through the puck).
- Pre-infuse for 5 - 10 seconds (listen for gurgling to stop - water rushing into the grouphead and now sitting on top of your puck). Press down a little to increase saturation of the puck until you see a few drops.
- Slowly lift the lever back up all the way and start a full pull (Fellini move). As already mentioned by I believe Michael, your pull should ramp up in pressure to a firm pull (about 30 lbs pressure((can be measured if you place the machine on a bathroom scale)) initially with the pressure slowly rolling off as you pass the mid-point of the shot. Continue the pull until the lever bottoms out or the shot blondes.
Steaming? Do so after you have pulled the shot to prevent the steamed milk from settling. Original three-hole tip is too fast and will outrun the boiler's heating element, producing wet steam and lessening your chance of getting good microfoam. Blocking at least one of the original holes will help a ton; two blocked is better, a little slower, and almost impossible not to get microfoam from. Another option is the OE single-hole tip, which is a little slower than the stock three-hole.
Sorry for the rant and random-ness, but I hope this helps.
Merle
LMWDP #273