Securing the Caravel kettle

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wintoid
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#1: Post by wintoid »

One of the joys of the Caravel is how easily it comes apart for cleaning. Unfortunately, I am finding that after cleaning, my v1.0 Arrarex Caravel is not very receptive to the kettle being clicked back in to the main body. I've used other Caravels and never had this problem.

I am wondering if there's something I can adjust that would make it easier to click the kettle into the body. Any help gratefully received!

Thanks,

Simon
Simon
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drgary
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#2: Post by drgary »

You probably have to adjust the springs that secure the kettle to the frame. I tried bending the catch at the back of my 1.0 and that was a mistake. There are spring adjustments via the small knobs on both sides of the front of the group. There's also an adjustment screw inside, at the back. If you're familiar with these let us know. Otherwise I can point you to a thread on that.
Gary
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wintoid (original poster)
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#3: Post by wintoid (original poster) »

Thanks Gary. I'm aware of the front two knobs and I've tried playing with those, but I haven't worked out how to adjust/find the screw at the back. I've got some time on Friday, so perhaps I'll take a good look then.
Simon
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drgary
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#4: Post by drgary »

Check this link to where I worked that out with a little help from my H-B friends.
Gary
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OldmatefromOZ
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#5: Post by OldmatefromOZ »

Yes sounds like that nut on the adjustment spring inside the machine could do with being loosened just a tiny bit.

You still want to the kettle to click down reasonably firmly without having to force it.

I found the easiest way to tweak that adjustment nut inside and get the kettle balanced with the front adjustment springs was to do the following.

Remove the base plate.

Remove the incoming wires from the terminal block.

Remove the 2 screws holding the terminal block down.

This will allow access from the bottom to the adjustment nut with a mini socket set / extension bar. I cannot remember the size of the socket i used, but its quite small.

This way you can tweak the nut until you get the kettle seating firmly / good contact with the element and in balance with the front springs.

I have to give a lot of credit to the thread linked by drgary, it was very helpful in helping me understand the workings of my caravel 1.0 and after some tweaking and testing I eventually got the balance right and my thermostat works very well with quite accurate adjust-ability via the thermostat adjustment knob at the bottom. My dead band is about 7 to 10 degrees Celsius, but where the thermostat cuts the power is quite adjustable 92, 94, 96 Celsius to a rolling boil. So much so that I stopped using my external PID control box altogether, which really makes the enjoyment of this machine that much more!

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drgary
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#6: Post by drgary »

Nice tip on getting at that screw.

I finally found a really good reason to use a PID with a Caravel. When trying to optimize a coffee for a review, I'll attach a PID and can step through temps by 2 degree increments. This will speed the review process. It should also help when dialing in any new coffee.
Gary
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wintoid (original poster)
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#7: Post by wintoid (original poster) »

Great, thanks. I plan to try this at the weekend.

I have to deal with the thermostat too, but one thing at a time...
Simon
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wintoid (original poster)
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#8: Post by wintoid (original poster) »

By the way, what does SEPS mean?
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drgary
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#9: Post by drgary »

I don't know right off. Look earlier in the thread I linked. It's probably there or on one of the referenced threads. Otherwise as a general practice you can enter it into the Search feature at the top of the site.
Gary
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wintoid (original poster)
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#10: Post by wintoid (original poster) »

Great, I think I may have sorted the kettle clipping in, by loosening that screw. Many thanks for the link and the pictures, which really helped!

I've now tested the deadband and unfortunately it's looking like about 20C (currently comes on at 69C and turns off at 89C). Is there any way for me to reduce the size of the deadband?
Simon
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