I am new to HB, though I have been and avid reader for some time, this is a new post for me. I currently have a vintage SAMA Export that I have refurbished: I bought all new seals and even a new spring. (thanks to Doug and Barb) I ran into a problem when I was disassembling the machine when one of the bolts that secures the flange to the boiler snapped off. I looked for a quick-fix and used little liquid weld to affix the snapped head....The project was just in it's final stages and I thought it might have worked but as I was filling the boiler for the test run I noticed a puddle of water appearing as fast as I was pouring. It leaked from either the broken bolt or maybe I torqued it down to the base too hard and pulled the stud out...I'm not sure. What steps should I take next?

I am sooo frustrated as this is my second vintage lever machine with a problem, My Microcimbali hates me too!
Thanks again!
Lane Brookshire

There is no real short cut for this. I think it would be best to open it remove the stud, put an helicoil in and a new bolt. We should not forget that those boiler are under pressure, and if it can't hold cold water, imagine what could happen when under pressure.

Thanks for the speedy reply. Would using the helicoil eliminate having to drill AND tap the old fitting out? I'm not sure if the boiler gasket is unobtainum now too?
-Lane Brookshire

Looking at the description you are giving it seems that it is the head of a bolt that broke off. If this correct than there would be no need for an helicoil. Just remove the remnants of the bolt and replace it by one of the same size. You would need helicoils if the threads are stripped.

I am not sure that understand your problem correctly. So any more information could make it easier for us to help.

Finally as Robert wrote.

robert mayrand wrote:We should not forget that those boiler are under pressure, and if it can't hold cold water, imagine what could happen when under pressure.

Do not underestimate the power of vapor pressure!

Again thanks for the help, I'm just not sure whether I want to start drilling out corroded screws and risk messing up the integrity of the thin brass boiler. The problem only presented itself once it affixed the boiler to the base. ( I had descaled the boiler even with the broken bolt problem with no apparent leaks!) Below is a picture of the two I am talking about.

-Lane Brookshire

Like I said there is no quick fix to this, you will have to remove the bottom plate to be sure of what's goin on. If the head just broke off and your scared of damaging the boiler by removing it, take it to a machine shop and they will do it for you. If that's the case it will only cost you a new screw and a few bucks for the shop fee. I'm not familiar with the Sama but by the photo it seem that there is only 3 srews holding the bottom plate so you don't have much choice. For the other stud it seem like it's only purpose is to hold the boiler to the machine so it might be less critical, but if you go to a machine shop for the other screw have an helicoil install at the same time and it will be as good as new!

You don't want to drill out the stud, you want to drill a small hole in it to use a stud extractor to remove what is left. The hole should be small enough to be "safe" where the threads are concerned yet large enough to get the extractor in by a few turns. I believe these extractors are called "Easy-outs" in the US. They screw into the stud counterclockwise and then when in and gripping allow you to unscrew what's left of the stud.

Cheers

Mike

michaelbenis wrote:You don't want to drill out the stud, you want to drill a small hole in it to use a stud extractor to remove what is left. The hole should be small enough to be "safe" where the threads are concerned yet large enough to get the extractor in by a few turns. I believe these extractors are called "Easy-outs" in the US. They screw into the stud counterclockwise and then when in and gripping allow you to unscrew what's left of the stud.

Cheers

Mike

Thanks for all the help I'l try the "easy out" solution first- If I can't remove the bolt I'll go the machine shop route.
-Lane Brookshire

I have had something very similar happen to me, I removed the boiler and renewed all corroded bolts.
First I tried the method as discribed above, it failed because all the stud-end where completely seized up.

The only way to remove the studs with possible success is to first grind the stud-end flush on the front and back of the flange. than drill a very small hole exactly through the centre of the bolt.
After this you increase the drill size by two millimeters each time untill you have reached the size of the original bolt hole before it was tapped.Then you get yourself a tap and retap the thread.

I have included a picture which shows you my problem, in the end I decided to do two additional bolts that were also badly corroded.
Success
[img][img]http://www.home-barista.com/forums/userpix/7532_dsc00258.jpg[/img]

Hello Lane,
As a machinist, I have had that problem a few times over the years. If you are very good with tools you may be able to do the job. I had not worked with the easy-outs for a while so I took the boiler to a local machine shop and had them do the job. Well worth it by preventing a possible major disaster. Cost me $20US.
If you do try to do the job yourself, it is absolutely necessary to drill a small hole exactly through the center of the remaining bolt. That hole must be smaller than the inner diameter of the threads of the bolt. Then let it set with penetrating oil on the threads for at least overnight. I have found that using an electric soldering iron on the bolt to heat it will allow the oil to penetrate the threads.Apply the heat then the oil and reheat for a few cycles before trying the easy-out. I have also used Dremels with a very fine carbide burr to grind the center of the bolt out and then used the easy out. You may as well, oil and heat all the studs out and replace them as the others are fatigued too and one or more will cause the same problem later. Stainless steel threaded rod is available at about $10 a foot. And the shop may have some available or could thread some rod stock.
Good luck!
-Richard