So, as you can see in the pic below, the dang roll-up pin in this old pre-M europiccola is rusted and stuck. Does anyone know a trick to get it out, or do I actually have to cut my losses and order new parts? Am I right in thinking that the only reason to get that pin out is to remove the knob and get the steam valve fixing nut and washer out of the way just to replace that little black steam valve seal? Does anyone think that if I warmed & softened up that gasket a bit I might be able to work it over the threads and the washer from the other end, instead of removing the knob etc?

I definitely wouldn't go so far as to say my work here is a full-on restoration, just an old machine that needs cleaning, descaling and new seals. The thing is, I'm also pretty confused as to where to put some of these new seals, because I think some of the old ones were just plain missing. I've examined some parts diagrams and still don't quite get it. I received the full set of seals from OE and I'm perfectly clear on the boiler cap seal, the group-to-boiler, the upper-group piston rod seal, the piston seals, and the steam valve gasket. What I'm not sure what to do with is the 4 matching red donutty o-rings, one of which you can see below. My guess is that one goes in the upper end and one in the lower end of the sightglass (maybe?), one where the steam arm hex nut screws on to the steam T-fitting, and finally one on the steam valve fixing nut (seen below), in that space between the hex head and the threads. Does this sound right?

The usual trick is to take a piece of wood and cut a slot about the width of the worthless junk roll pin in it. Then put the narrow end of the knob over the slot in the wood with the roll pin directly over the slot. Then take a punch slightly less than the diameter of the roll pin and tap it out. (You can also use various types of shop presses if you have access to one. A simple arbor press works well.)

Do not use the original roll pin. Throw it into the trash. You can either get a stainless replacement, or, I think, better take a 4mm tap and thread the shaft and hold the knob on with a 4mm stainless set screw.

It is extremely easy to make steam knobs with a lathe to replace the ugly ones provided by La Pavoni on the non wood knob models. If you make them out of solid brass they get a little warm, but you can still turn them without burning the fingers. If you make them from wood they will need a brass insert, at least in my experience, otherwise they can crack from the heat.

Hard to get out those pins, you need a punch of the correct size, should come out though. I bent my shaft getting mine out, try not to do that!

Just a hard washer, black seal, hard washer on that whole apparatus you have there, but you need to get the bakelite handle off to change them, as you can see from a La Pavoni diagram. You have two different washers the left one looks like a correct one.

No idea what those red seals are. They look too big to be for the other end of the steamer apparatus, the two little o-rings, mine were tiny and black.

thanks Robert. Sadly, I don't have any tools aside from a bunch of screwdrivers and wrenches etc, just cheap common non-handy household stuff. A low-end drill and a dremel are the extent of my power tools. I think if I had to acquire any tools for this purpose right now, I might just as soon spend the $38 on parts for a new steam knob assembly. I guess I was hoping to hear of some magic liquid solution, a few drops of which would somehow free up this rusted nuissance so i could just poke it out with a tiny screwdriver or a long nail or something.

Robert: really? Well then im really stumped as to what does little red guys are for. I have accounted for everything else. There should be seals that go in the spots I described, though, right? This must be them, then.... has anyone else used an OE kit like this?

sacrifice the smallest of your screwdriver (if worth of course)
and if the barrel is mall enough
cut the blade off with your dremel
put some DW-40 on the pin let is seat of couple of minutes,
then use the cut-off screw driver for pushing the pin out with an hammer

SpromoSapiens wrote:Well then im really stumped as to what does little red guys are for. I have accounted for everything else. There should be seals that go in the spots I described, though, right? This must be them, then.... has anyone else used an OE kit like this?

If I remember correctly those red seals go at either end of the sight glass for seals. I think you have to stack 2 on the bottom of the glass and 2 on the top.

Stefano I think sells a single seal top and bottom for the glass.

If you have a Harbor Freight or similar inexpensive hardware source around small punch sets are quite inexpensive, but in a pinch sacrificing an old screwdriver that fits (as Stefano suggested) or even a nail of the right size cut flush will work.

NAIL of course I was thinking of a long turn tool like I will be needing but nail is a cheaper solution

Be careful not to try to push it out with something that is sharp. It will flare it, you do not want that! A flattened nail will work well, but it must be flat. The little piece of wood with a slot sawed in it allows you to reduce the chance of cracking the plastic. Should you end up cracking the plastic, you might find a friend with a lathe to make a nicer than La Pavoni replacement knob using the brass part inside for an insert.

a wealth of helpful replies, thanks everybody! what size punch is this? Would it be 4 mm (5/32")? if I can find one individually, I might just get that instead of a set...

I think a 3mm punch would be closer, 4mm is the size of the die that would cut threads to use a set screw instead of roll pin.

Rap the punch gently with the hammer. Put the part on something to hold it like the slotted piece of wood I suggested to avoid breaking the plastic when you are doing this.