Thanks, Allon!

Some practical matters.

To finish up, I changed the power cord and found an easier solution to a crimped strain protector as long as I don't use the power cord as a lasso. OSH sells a power cord that fits perfectly inside a rubber grommet meant to protect it from chafing against metal. Here's the packet I bought.



I relied on a ground fault outlet and rubber gloves to keep safe during the first power up. Also before starting I used the multimeter to again test the resistance for each switch and element. Is there a way to use the multimeter to test for stray voltage on the machine itself before touching it?

The GFCI is fine, and the payoff is this machine is starting to make spectacular espresso. As I get better acquainted with it:

- Turning on the 300W element heats it slowly but without creating excessive steam

- Turning on both elements while watching it heats it very quickly

- Turning off the 1000W element before the steam gets too intense avoids a hot water geyser. The original instructions for the machine suggest that with both elements on, the machine whistles. This suggests the elements may have been originally wired in series with the 300W element turning off when the 1000W is on. But I'm happy having the full heating capacity and driving it manually.

- After pulling a shot while relying on the 300W element alone, I turn on both elements and it quickly comes up to full steam power. Then I open the steam valve and get good, strong steam. Immediately upon closing the steam valve, I shut off the 1000W element and am ready to pull another shot.