the almighty wrote:I've tried teflon tape. I think it's a good solution, it will take a couple of trys to get the proper orientation of the tube. I've got also a thread sealant ( Loctite 542 ) but am not sure if it stays in place when the machine is use. I wouldn't want in my espresso eventualy...
Thanks for all suggestions!
Marcel

I don't know about 542 and the possibility of chemicals leaching out under high temperatures and pressure. You might want to follow up with Henkel about the choice of thread locker.

http://www.engineeringtalk.com/news/hec/hec115.html

Regards
Timo

the almighty wrote:I've tried teflon tape. I think it's a good solution, it will take a couple of trys to get the proper orientation of the tube. I've got also a thread sealant ( Loctite 542 ) but am not sure if it stays in place when the machine is use. I wouldn't want in my espresso eventualy...
Thanks for all suggestions!
Marcel

Here is another Loctite product that might also be of service:

Pipe Sealing Cord 55
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/LOC55PSC-EN.pdf

Loctite® 55 is recommended for sealing metal and plastic tapered pipe threads and fittings up to 4" NPT (National Pipe Thread). It has a temperature resistance up to 150°C (300°F). Loctite® 55 allows assemblies to be adjusted after assembly...

Approvals/Specifications
UL Listed and certified to CSA international (formerly AGA) and ANSI/NSF Standard 61.

Regards
Timo

P.S. According to Loctite customer support, 542 is not NSF certified.

srobinson wrote:OK, calling all Olympia 67 owners. I need some help double checking some wiring.

I finally got my parts from Switzerland for a new heating element and new switches and I rewired based on how I got the machine. Now while I have the boiler rolling, I cannot get the status light to fire up. Before I dig out my probe, I wanted to see if any of you could double check my wiring so see if I am doing something stupid. This is one of my last frustrations before I simply start from scratch and rewire it.

Here are a couple pics of how I have it wired:


Off the boiler:

oly_puller wrote:Hey Steve -


The only other thing I have is the yellow/green that grounds by the rocker switch, also grounds on the bottom of the boiler - but you don't have one of those so no worries....

Pt

I'd be a little uneasy about leaving something ungrounded. My solution is much like the grounding on the original heating element.

I just looked at your plugging scheme and it seems correct to me. It looks like the new heaters do not have any grounding. Take also a look earlier in this thread containing Steve's plugging. he also got the spare from Switzerland
best of luck

Just wanted to get this thread back up towards the front of the line... I have my eyes on a Cremina and will probably need all the knowledge given in these great posts.

Cathi,
For your benefit this is brought back to the forefront of posts... Just in case?!

Excellent! I'm sure I'll need it. Hopefully it wont be a nightmare. Simple/basic, I'm willing to go for.

Thanks for the bump.

srobinson wrote: After a bit struggle to remove the rubber feet and finish up the electrical, everything was apart.

After my eBay debacle and some encouraging words from Greg, "mogogear," I decided to powder coat 2 of the Creminas. The bodies are at the paint shop. Now, I've decided to do the frames as well, but I'm having trouble removing the rubber feet. They are starting to tear from all of my pushing and pulling. Anyone know a way to remove the feet without damaging them?

Doug,
My feet were made of a glued on bottom layer that had to be peeled off to reveal the screw head. Some of my bolts and nuts were just spinning when I tried to remove them ( I know that was leaving the door open for some comments )
And I had to reosrt to tearing into one of the feet.

Maybe yours are the "punched" through the hole type? I hope you got a good deal on your powder coating- my guy near me will do two shells for about $60 . The trick Steve used on removing the badges worked well- the dental floss saw!

Greg,
Mine are the punched through type. I soaked the frame in the kitchen sink with hot water for a 1/2 hour. That softened the rubber feet enough to push them through with a screw driver, no damage.

Leon's Powder Coating in Oakland said $10.00 each body, I don't know about the frames yet. They told me the heat from the powder coating process would probably melt the gold decal on the '88, so I may need an Olympia badge.

I'm going to put the '86 on eBay. With the new coating and better bright work, (also mechanically restored), it should be attractive enough to get over the "reserve" hump.

The floss trick worked well on the badge, but wouldn't remove the serial number plate. The floss kept breaking. The paint shop will probably have to tape it off and paint around it.