The Rancilio boiler diagram shows both the 220v and 115v models to be 2700 watt elements for the 2 group Z9. You can calculate watts =voltsxamps and get a theoretical load or use a meter to check. The element should be marked and then you can determine if it was just plug changed or the element was also changed....lots of stuff to figure out on a new to you machine. Since you have a washer sitting right next to your espresso machine stand it seems pretty direct to just plumb in from the washer line....most machines take a 3/8 compression stainless flexie line and plumb the machine in. Nice machine....great 70's orange!

WOW!!! What a lot of fun you are going to have!!! You are diagnosing the system right so far. The Gicar is the autofill system and the blue box is the pstat.

Let's go back to the first question 220 with a 110 plug or 110 with a 110 plug. First do the math. Both the 220 and 110 element run at 2700 watts on the element. 2700=220(x). So on 220 the element would pull 12.25 amps current. That is the spec on the element. Plug the amps number in the other formulae to find the resistance of the 220v element, running on 220. V=iR, so this solves the resistance of the 2700 watt element at about 18 ohms. A multimeter can test the ohms of the element as it sits and if you read 18 ohms it is a 220 element with a 110 plug. You can solve the 110volt element equation the same way to find what the resistance on the 110 element would be. Lets say it is a 220v element running on 110, this means that the ohms will always be 18 but both the amps and wattage will decrease....slow to heat and slow to recover, but not a danger or anything.

Back to the machine....if the gicar system is working then you can either just clean it up and check all the contacts and terminals for safety and call it that. The gicar can easily be disabled, bypassed or removed entirely if it is an i$$ue since the manual fill system overrides the gicar and if you are paying even marginal attention to the water level it is highly unlikely that you would ever need the gicar, unless of course you enjoy the marvel of it kicking on unexpectedly. If you can't get the machine to take up water then the gicar could be faulty.

Most of the greening at the fittings is pretty normal for a machine like this as a sign of small seepage but there seems to be no sign of major leaks would show as white drools and striping from a fitting. The overpressure safety valve on top looks to be a retrofit from an older style big wobbler weight system which used the drain from the large pan on top. The pstat is like a sirai but with a metal cover and has the big sparking contacts inside, which may or may not be burned.achine turns on and off at pressure then it is working.
You can get water to it from about any source temporarily to check out all of the different parts of the machine, even a garden hose if you can figure out some fittings ....even with leaks you just need to get it filled up enough to see if the gicar will both turn on and shut off. Once you get the boiler full then it is reasonably safe to turn it on and see what happens. If all else fails and you want to fill the machine you can remove the top pressure safety valve and use the hole as a fill. there is also a drain plug somewhere of the boiler or on the sight glass lower housing to get the old water out when the time comes. BIG fun!
Of course you had to add the gross picture of the top of the group. Lots of cleaning and relubing here but all well within reason to undertake. Let us know if you need parts for the machine as we are putting together a big order from Spain for some of our restorations and can add your needs in with some other special bits for other machines in current crisis.

It is likely best to consult an electrician over the circuit change.....the thing is, you can easily convert a regular 3 wire romex line (black white and green or bare ground wire) to 220 but the amperage rating of the 12 or 14 gauge romex is below that needed for a 220v circuit....most 220v circuits have a breaker rated at 40 amps (for a dryer or a kitchen range) and for our 220 line which we ran we used 8 gauge wire. That is the problem with changing a regular 110 circuit to 220, the wire you have in the wall.

Truly, fill it with water and see how long it takes to warm up, that seems the best way to begin. After all, the heating element may have been changed, there is no way of knowing, and the volt and watt ratings should be on the element somewhere...possibly on the rod itself, which is of course inside the machine, and if you run it on 220 if it is 110 element it will burn out due to the overamperage. I prefer the experimental approach as long as one can rule out the possibilities of disaster. Checking the resistence of the element with a meter will enable you to determine which element you have in the machine and proceed basking in this knowledge with confidence of not damaging yourself or the machine.

Nice link on the diagrams. Professional help may be in order, yes. That is unless you have an extreme moment of mental clarity about the wiring situation. There is a lot of information about basic wiring, wire gauges required, etc, but it looks like you could do a lot of cleanup of terminals and get rid of some bad wads of danger. If you were to address these wiring issues yourself I thin a good test of your capability to do this is, can you remove ALL the wires and start fresh and get it wired correctly?

Sounds like you are gaining confidence as you go along here.....a good sign of future success.

I think your idea of general cleaning and troubleshooting the mechanicals a great idea. By all means clean it all up since you will feel much better having done that as it looks so shabby inside at present, from storage as much as anything.

My question of being able to take all the wires off and get it properly wired was not snarky, and I hope you did not misunderstand me, but in a way, understanding the electrical on a machine is simpler if there are no wires, just the control elements needing to be hooked together properly......and some great confusion has settled upon my mind when trying to duplicate a wiring "diagram" for a machine when the diagram makes no sense. (some of the La Pavoni Europiccolas are really backassward from my way of wiring and the diagrams just make one's head pound as they sometimes make no sense and in prectice call for the black wire to be directly attached to the white wire which causes the circuit breaker to go POP) You have on the machine basically 5 elements....switch, pstat,gicar autofill system. heating element, and indicator lights. So 4 plus some lights. The first node is the switch and the hot side of the power will go then to the pstat and the pstat is a second switch actually, and from there the current will go to the heating element, exit the heating element and return to the switch where the neutral wire is located and back out the cord (assuming a 110 circuit). The gicar has current applied all the time to the main box and the box supplies current to the electric valve for fill. There is also a sensor circuit on the gicar. So the gicar takes a hot lead from some point (the same wire as the pstat hot side) and returns the current circuit to again the neutral wire. It is wired so it gets its current on the switch side, between the swetch and the pstat. If you hae pilot lights that tell when the boiler is on the wires to the lights come from the heating element circuit and if the lights indicate the machine is on the wires come from the switch.

So you see, with no wires at all it may be a bit easier to envision the circuits and what they need to do than trying to sort out the mess in front of you. As long as you overengineer the wires for safe load (12-14 gauge for most and lets say 10 gauge for the boiler elements) you will likely be doing fine. The gauge of the wire is determined by the amound of current to be carried in the wire and just overengineer as the wires can never be too big, just too small.

Also, if you have a functioning manual fill the system gets even easier if you leave out the gicar completely, making the wiring a very simple circuit of switch to pstat to heating element to switch wired on the hot wire in and neutral wire out. I think that if you sit down with a piece of paper and draw your circuit...switch to pstat to element to switch and switch to gicar to valve to switch it will begin to become clearer and clearer to you how the circuit is layed out and what you need to do to safely wire the machine.

If you proceed and double check everyting you will end up with new wires, clean safe terminals and possibly a more streamlined circuit than originally on the machine. Use a GFI plug and you will be generally safe as long as you do a sanitary job in the wiring and the GFI will throw if there is a short somewhere in you calculations.

Can't comment on the quote, well I could but how about "ZOUNDS!!!!!".

Saw your other post about the La Pav switch....sounds like a suddenly failed rocker switch, hope it's not the long kind.

As far as having the groups specifically send out to rebuild. A non fastidious person could simply change the seals without removing the spring, which is the hard part and what you need is a very big clamp and some area to do this in that you are confident nothing or nobody including yourself caould get damaged if the clamp slips and the spring flies out, etc....but then again there are various fairly safe jigs that you can make using scrap lumber and long bolts to much more safely compress the spring. That's about the only special tool you need. Takes a good bit of hand strength to get the seals on but overall if you have basic tools and the patience to make a jig for the spring compression it is not a complex job. The seals and gaskets are readily available so that's not a problem either. It's like a Europiccola but a lot bigger. A much more difficult area of the rebuild of a machine is stuck fittings and bolts, no matter the size of the machine, so it's a wash.

Experience is a very good teacher especially if you are paying attention during class, and you are in luck since you would have one group to learn on and an entire second group apply all of your newly learned lessons to!
I have a feeling that you are going to undertake this project yourself and feel damn good about it when you are done. All the best!
Doug