Rancilio Z9 Two Group Lever Machine - Page 9

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Bob_McBob
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#81: Post by Bob_McBob »

It's probably actually a 115V or 120V element. 110, 115, and 120 tend to get used fairly interchangeably.
Chris

phillip canuck (original poster)
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#82: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

Thanks, Chris, for the time being I'll assume that all is well.

Next question:

This base for the manual water fill snapped as it was being removed. It is not a part that can be bought (that I know of). I may very well just figure some other arrangement to secure it in place. I'm not even sure what kind of metal it is, but I'm wondering if welding is an option?




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phillip canuck (original poster)
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#83: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

Confirmation and question.

I'm assuming that two ring terminals get connected to the bottom two heating element flanges? AWG 10?? Color?? These then will lead to the Sirai (P303T01), but to which of the 6 connections (7th is the ground) do I use? (Fork terminals, yes?). Oh, and how about a good source of where to buy small amounts - and with heat protection?




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emil
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#84: Post by emil »

Hello Phillip,

I don't know if I got you right, but I will try to answer your questions:
The Sirai is nothing but a pressure driven switch, so you use it to cut or connect the upper from the lower connection of the 3 respective slots. The seventh connection mentioned is the ground (or earth) connection, absolutely no power on this connection! You have three slots to be able to switch the tree power lines of a typical european 3x230V, 1xN, 1xG power supply. So if you use only 1 power line, you connect the incoming power / outgoing power to the corresponding connections of the same slot.

Please be sure you know what you do - 25 A need a minimal line of 4 mm2 in your house wiring depending on the length of the line - normal use (in Germany) means 2,5 mm2...

Best regards
Emil
LMWDP #282

phillip canuck (original poster)
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#85: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

Hi Emil,
I didn't know what you were referring to - power/ground - until I checked my post from late, late last night and realized my mistake, thank you (since been edited). I was thinking that the outlet I want to use was 30amp, but I just checked and it is 20amp. Given that I don't otherwise have a free 110/220 outlet, it looks like I'll disconnect one of the heating elements.
emil wrote:Hello Phillip,

You have three slots to be able to switch the tree power lines of a typical european 3x230V, 1xN, 1xG power supply. So if you use only 1 power line, you connect the incoming power / outgoing power to the corresponding connections of the same slot.
I must very well be blind, because this is the confusing part to me: you connect the incoming power / outgoing power to the corresponding connections of the same slot.
To me, the six slots look the same and I haven't seen anything in documentation or on the Sirai itself which distinguishes this from that. Which are the corresponding connections??

Thank you,
phillip

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erics
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#86: Post by erics »

"Incoming/Outgoing" = 1A/1B or 2A/2B or 3A/3C OR 1B/1A or 2B/2A or 3B/3A. Just make sure you leave enough slack in the wires such that you can easily switch from set 1 to set 2 or set 3 after, say, a year's operation.

Skål,

Eric S.
http://users.rcn.com/erics/
E-mail: erics at rcn dot com

phillip canuck (original poster)
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#87: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

ERIC! Fantastic - this is exactly what I wanted to know, thank you.

-phillip

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phillip canuck (original poster)
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#88: Post by phillip canuck (original poster) »

Now that my Elektra T1 is simply awaiting to be plumbed in (waiting for parts), I've been turning my attention to the Z9, again (again).

As you can read earlier in the thread (page 2), here is the previous wiring job:





Rather than trying to recreate this dangerous mess, I just ripped it all out. Had the wiring - in principle - been sound, I would have been fine to replicate what was there but with new wires, connections, crimps and all - I can do that. What I (still) can't do is replace this wiring from scratch. Here is what I do know:

Heating element is 110V 2700W (24.5A). I'm going to disconnect one copper bridge and knock it down to 2/3 power (16.4A). I have 20A available, though I have an electrician coming on Monday to give an estimate on installing a 30A line. In truth, my landlord may very well end up paying for the installation.

Heating element --> brand new 20A Sirai (may have to upgrade to 30A) - 10 gauge (color/heat resistance??)
I need to build/buy a power cord
There is no power switch, never was that I can tell - but seems like a good idea.
Unless I'm convinced otherwise, I'm going to forget the Gicar (it does work), and opt for the simplicity of manual fill.
There are no lights of any sort, though a boiler "on" light seems like it would be nice.

power switch --> pstat --> heating element --> pstat --> power cord

Now, I know how to crimp the ring and fork terminals for the element and pstat, and I see where the ground connects for the power (I think), but after that... What kind of power switch (none in the parts list, though there is space for it, ditto the boiler light, I think)? McMaster Carr has a dizzying array.

It occurs to me that the 20A outlet I currently have is not GFI.

Having just gone through this process of writing it all out (and on a yellow legal pad), it seems to me that a lot of the confusion for me is in the selection of wires, and also how, exactly, that power cord connects to the Z9 (that white cube - I've never played with one).

Well, if you can offer any assistance, please do - I need it.

-phillip

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orphanespresso
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#89: Post by orphanespresso »

On the wiring and components they just basically have to be rated for amperage at above the amps of the circuit (mostly the heating element). You can use 12 gauge power cord even though 10 would likely be super safe. It is easiest and cheapest to build your own power cord by adding the male plug end. The switch from your wiring scheme sounds like a double pole double throw and can be anything from a simple toggle to more elaborate. The wiring inside the machine can be 10 gauge for the heating element and 12 gauge for everything else (14 will actually surpass the amp rating but will look skimpy next to the 10). Spade terminals will work but eyelets are better as they never loosen. Teflon coated wire is very nice to work with and can be gotten on ebay in small quantities and various gauges...easier to find than silicone coated, at least for me.
Be sure to wire in such a way as to break the black wire (hot) with the switch if you are using a single pole vs double. It actually is not hard to use 2 switches in case you get the higher amp breaker so you can have a low power and high power using the leg of the element that you are thinking of dropping out as an option, or an energy saver....high power for quick warm up then low for cruise.
Good idea to lose the gicar as that is one of the more expensive parts to replace. The block junction just acts as a bridge and you insert the stripped wire and tighten the screws....make sure to clean it out well so it does not become a mini heating element! Almost any pilot light will work and can be wired in almost anywhere.

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allon
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#90: Post by allon »

some cheap ring lugs will corrode easily, and the corrosion will work back up the wire, under the insulation - not good. When I wired my CMA lever, I used high temperature range wire from an appliance repair shop, as well as high temperature rated ring lugs.

They were a pain to crimp, but they hold.
LMWDP #331