My Ponte Vecchio Lusso (one group) I have bought this year in May in Italy. I went straight to the small factory to see how they assemble these machine, very nice experience. When I last week switched on my machine I heard a short noise and as of then the boiler isn't heating up anymore. The light of the switch is working, but just that the machine doesn't get hot anymore. I assume multiple reason can be responsible for this problem, like a fuse?

Of course I still do have warranty, but instead of sending this machine immediately to Italy (as I am living in Brussels) I was trying to figure out if I could do this myself. Does anybody of you have an idea what there is wrong or experience with a similar problem?

Thanks for your help,

Jeroen

Dead Ponte Vecchio Lusso brain - REPAIRED/PICS

This could be your problem, but its not the only possibility. The symptom in my case was the low water neon was on (the bottom one) instead of the top one which indicates when the element is running.

Have you ever taken the case off your Lusso? If it's wired like the one in the thread there is an easy way to see if the brain has failed by bypassing the low water switch (swapping some cable plugs). The reason I say 'if' is because there was an older model that had no black box in it. If you work out that this is your problem, you could contact your warranty provided and see if they would swap only the brain without having to send the whole machine back. I think the brain failure is a common fault unfortunately. Some of the components don't seem to have very high temperature ratings and it can get really hot where they are mounted.

Thanks for the information. I don't know how I have to get off the black knobs. I have unscrewed the two screws on the bottom, but to remove the outer case, I need these ones to get off.

The Exports have a thermal cutoff switch, which can be re-set. I do not know if Lusso has this.

You can send an email to Doug at Orphanespresso - he can tell you the best way to solve the problem.

PC

According to my information, the lusso's don't have a thermo switch off, as they can stay all the time switched on. I didn't run out of water when this problem occurred. I read the thread and want to follow the instructions, but first I have to know how to remove the knobs as they block the removal of the outercase.

Help get the knobs off my Ponte Vecchio!

Most of us have had the same questions: you need to take off the cup warmer tray and get an adjustable wrench (spanner). You will see brass bits where the stems of the knobs meet the case. These need to be unscrewed and taken off. You should always have some lubricant (Dow 111 or some other food grade lubricant which wont melt with heat) because there are some little rings that seal these bits up which should not be put back dry.

There is a thermal cutoff switch. That's a bit that connected to the boiler just in case something was going very wrong and the machine was overheating badly. In the pictures in the repair thread you can't see it, but there's a red plastic looking button on one of those components (see the first picture and read the description of it). You might even be able to reach down the inside of the machine (unplug it please!!!) and see if you can push it inwards. Might save you taking the cover off if this is your problem.

Seen this?

Help get the knobs off my Ponte Vecchio!

Edit- Jen beat me to it!

Once you get the knobs off....I just remove the valve retaining nut and turn out the entire shaft, knob and all...but once the case if off test all the components with a multimeter set on ohms. Unhook the wires from each component and test that component...heating element, thermostat, switch, etc . Likely indeed the problem is the brain and it can be bypassed and the only thing you lose is the low water shutoff circuit....all the rest can be wired as a simple circuit from power cord through power switch then thermal safety then pstat (or pstat then thermal safety, it does not matter) then heating element back to pilot light and switch and power cord. The brain is a big pain and this is possibly why the older brainless machines seem so much better. These machines worked just fine even in the Bezzera Club format then SAMA and first generation PV, but the brain was brought in for the low water safety feature, but why have a low water feature without an autofill?
Anyway, diagnose electrical problems with a test meter and try to not diagnose with parts....saves time and money.

Planning for the eventual brain failure. In the old uninsulated boiler HX/E61 machine the wiring insulation broke down. Insulated the PVL boiler. Figure might as well replace the wire if needing to rewire to circumvent the brain. What gauge wire should be used? Based on Doug's post can I assume that if the water level switch is circumvented the thermal safety switch will reduce damage in the event of too low a water level?

On my 1st gen PVL2(2 group) I find the low water shut off to be a bit of a nuisance. It cuts in before the water level in the sight tube reaches bottom. Bit of a design flaw. Would have guessed that the switch was designed to prevent those moments when one does not notice the water level has dropped too low. Like below sight. Or the water level tube is positioned too low.

3y/o PVL2 used on an average ~4x per week. Runs smoothly. Superficial build quality and looks of an '80s vintage chevy, but performs like a Ferrari.

To get 1 last shot out of the machine (or some flushing rinses) I switch the machine off when I know the probe is about to trigger and carry on what I need to do until I run out of pressure. There's usually plenty of pressure left without the element cycling on again.