Would be grateful for comments about the pstat used in the La Pavoni Professional model. Interested in how robust it is; its amperage; physical size, whether is it noisy, etc -- considering using one on another machine.

Regards
Timo

I don't know about the size, amperage or the robustness of the p-stat, but I can attest to it being quiet. The boiler element on the other hand can get a bit noisy. Or noisy for one of these machines. No where near as loud as the vibe pumps, though. Hope someone else can help. One thing I can say though is probably try to go with the pre-99 if you decide to go this route.

Hello Timo

you can find some data's and specifications about Pressure switch
at the below link :

http://www.espresso-restorations.com/p-stats.html

The usual Pressure switch in a pavoni is a Signallux
you can find pictures and details to improvo the deadband:
http://www.planetcafe.fr/forums/v...ic.php?p=1426#1426

sometime You can find a Mater Pressure switch in a La Pavoni like this
[img][img]http://i11.servimg.com/u/f11/09/00/69/05/img_0110.jpg[/img][/img]

The Mater and Signallux have the same type of electric switch the MaTer has a small deadband (aroud 0.1 bar) and be easier to tune (0.3 to 1.6 bar), the Signallux is cheaper and not easy to tune (the ring is bond but it's possible to fuse the bond with an hot air gun).

I know there're no life time problem if you have less than 7 Amper with 240 Vol,t but I don't know the maximal intensity with US Voltage specific switch for these Pressurestats.

Regards

Thank you, Christophe, for the information about the Pavoni pressurestat.

Regards
Timo

Tim,

I really like the C(e)ME I purchased from Espressoparts to replaced the original Pstat on the Bezzera. Very quiet, I also think the Pstat on the Cremina is quiet also though, so take my recommendation for what it is worth.. It Has a .2 bar dead-band. After I learned to adjust it with no pressure on it. Then power up check readings - turn off -release pressure completely- then adjust and power up again. I had real problems while adjusting it under pressure while it was on. I think it was $20- something...

EDIT: Thanks for catching my misspelling- CEME! Memory is going, going gone!

Hello

Yes the CEME is interesting because you can tune the dead band and it's better for Pavoni to increase that (aroud 0.3-0.4 bar) so as to have a time longer than 2 min for the on off heating element cycle.

CEME are used by Marzocco.

Regards

I have been advised that the MATER and CEME lack sufficient robustness to drive the Cremina's heating element directly (and I don't know how to wire the machine with a SSR, the safety-thermostat, and the pstat, to avoid this problem). Putting these inexpensive pstats under that strain is said to turn them into a part that wears out often. They are not costly, but I don't relish the idea of the pstat failing. So I have been looking around for alternatives.

Barksdale looked promising; certainly the technical information on their website is the most comprehensive I have seen, and their sales support engineers were quite helpful. The features I would like:

-- rated for steam temperatures without the need for a cooling loop
-- robust contacts & higher amperage rating to control heating element directly
-- spade connectors
-- field adjustable
-- appropriate pressure range (e.g .4 to 2.0bar or thereabouts)
-- diaphragm
-- quiet
-- small form factor
-- NSF-61-approved for hot potable water applications
-- 13mm O.D. BSP male threaded connector

Barksdale has these features, but no one of their pstats has them all. Maybe they will make one with all of the features above if we clamor loud enough


Regards
Timo

Tim,
What is your element wattage? I love my CEME Pstat on the Bezzera and it is virtually identical to the Oly Club? Also If a CEME is good enough for a La Marz- It should be more than capable to be up to the task you are inquiring about-----IMHO-.

You might check with, I think Zach, - he is the parts dude at Espresso Parts NW and ask him about your application and concerns.

But does the CEME drive the heating element directly on the LM? Or via a SSR or other switch? From what I've been told, it isn't that the CEME and MATER won't work, they will just need to replaced more frequently if they drive the element directly.

Regards
Timo

P.S. The Club's heating element is given as 1350W, 120V.

Have anyone tried to put two pressure stats in series (for smaller dead band and better safety)?