Hi Jack. We have them.

I've got one of these that has the locked in screens.
Sadly, I attempted to remove it several years ago using the "hammer" technique (there wasn't any info on 1960-72 Europiccola's available at the time). (http://www.home-barista.com/lever...ropiccola%20screen)
Though I've gone on to acquire several new levers I've always been heartbroken about my stupidity regarding the classic peacock (especially due to the fact that it's otherwise mint with a perfect element).
In anyone can detail how exactly to remove the cylinder (ideally with pics if there are any out there), I'd really appreciate it, as I think I might have a line on a busted up model from the same era that I could frankenstein together...
I know many folks have mentioned a "vice and nail" technique (I think pioneered by Anthony) but I've never seen a fully detailed walkthrough on how to go about doing it (IE - does the bottom/drip tray have to be removed?).
Should there be any good samaritans out there in possession of this arcane knowledge, please write up a post on it!
Thanks from Toronto,
-GB.

Hi Garth,
I believe that "Anthony" is me
I'll try and post some pics when I get back home this weekend for all to see, but send me a PM in the meantime, and I can probably walk you through the process over email or by phone if you prefer
Basically, it's is easier if you remove the grouphead from the boiler, clamp 2 hardened nailpunches/punchpins in a bench-vice so that they line up with the holes/indents where the screen/sleeve "locks" into the grouphead, and slowly, but forcefully unscrew the the inner sleeve.

Cheers
Anthony

Ah, ok - that's starting to make sense now. One issue that comes to mind is that my Europiccola is from the era where the grouphead was welded directly to the boiler. Do you think I could take the same approach with with GH attached to the boiler? Also, can punchpins be picked up at any hardware store?
Sorry for the questions - I likely won't tackle this project 'til summer, it would just be great to get as much info as possible in advance.
Thanks a bunch,

-GB.

Assuming you have enough clearance around your bench-vice so the machine can be moved / rotate to unscrew the sleeve, it should still work the same - The punchpins / nailpunches, sometime also called nailsets should be available in most hardware stores, and various sizes - Don't recall the size of hand, but I'll be sure to check that as well when home this weekend - I'll also post pics of those as well
All questions are good
Cheers
Anthony

I had no troubles removing the piston on my machine: just remove the lever- and tap it all out?

But my machine does have the more modern style filter screen set up- so that may make a difference.

I had No problems. Only trick thing is removing the little circlip inside to change the small v-section seal in the top of the head. If you have the correct special pliers this is also a breeze.

but the group head welded directly to the boiler is an issue for me: on my machine there is tiny pinhole leak on the seam directly the group head neck.

To braze it I would want to remove the group but that doesn't look possible?

I was wondering if there was any type of metal tape (aluminum?) that I could make a tiny batch out of and place inside the boiler. The leak is so tiny- I thought this just may be the (easy) solution? But is there such a tape? Type of stuff you want if you are an cosmonaut working on MIR- to make quick (but good) repairs- from the inside- on the fly.

here is the machine:



and the leak is below the group head on the boiler:



The leak is so insignificant and tiny - it only shows up when the machine is at its highest pressure- just before the release kicks in. Even then it is barely anything. But it is annoying.... it hisses a little...